I'm brainfarting.. what exactly are you talkin bout willis? are you talking about the knurled cones they fit over?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I'm brainfarting.. what exactly are you talkin bout willis? are you talking about the knurled cones they fit over?
Yeah...mine has barrel shaped posts with vertical grooves that the wiper arms fit over...those grooves are full of 2 stage paint..I taped them when I painted but guess who didn't?
Can't get a wire brush at them without damaging the paint....and removing the hood
Can't get a wire brush at them without damaging the paint....and removing the hood
when ya get a chance snap a pic from a few feet back so I can get an idea of the logistics, and whether you should approach it mechanically, with what tool, chemically, etc.......
Tape the area around it and use a pick to gouge the paint out of the splines.
yeah, I was gonna say a dental pick and some patience works well for this kinda stuff....
my dentist gives me his older ones when I see him...
my dentist gives me his older ones when I see him...
I got this set of hooks and picks...maybe that will do the trick
Should work. Good job to be stoned for...not that I advocate or partake in illegal substances. 
eh, you'd prolly take a nap on the hood..
If I have anything, I have patience...so picking at this all day won't bore me...I'd never have gotten through this if I didn't have patience...problem is I'll be standing...nowhere to sit while doing this. 
I got to reverse the wiper assembly 180* also...I guess I'll do that first then clean the posts and get the wipers put back on.
I still need to get those rear hood "bumpers" installed and adjusted so the hood doesn't cut my head off if I have a wreck...but I can't seem to find the right spot so the hood doesn't get hung on them while trying to open the hood.
I got to get the door window weatherstrips also....I may have real trouble with the door windows lining up in the channels...unless the weatherstrip holds them in place....right now they only stay in the channels if they are rolled up at least half way
I still need to get those rear hood "bumpers" installed and adjusted so the hood doesn't cut my head off if I have a wreck...but I can't seem to find the right spot so the hood doesn't get hung on them while trying to open the hood.
I got to get the door window weatherstrips also....I may have real trouble with the door windows lining up in the channels...unless the weatherstrip holds them in place....right now they only stay in the channels if they are rolled up at least half way
I reversed the wiper assembly and it now works...however...I cleaned the posts and the wiper arms still will not seat all the way down...I tapped them with a hammer and they still will not seat...if I hadn't pulled those off the Blazer I would swear they may not be the right arms...
seems so simple...should just slide down till they click with the keeper...
not sure if they will come off or not...I hammered them hard..
seems so simple...should just slide down till they click with the keeper...
not sure if they will come off or not...I hammered them hard..
I tightened the A/C belt..
I cannot believe that all my o-rings I replaced and the fitting of the lines...that there wasn't a leak anywhere...
But it's blowing ice cubes with 134-A in it.
The compressor is quite noisy though...don't know if that is normal or if it is about to go kaput...
I cannot believe that all my o-rings I replaced and the fitting of the lines...that there wasn't a leak anywhere...
But it's blowing ice cubes with 134-A in it.
The compressor is quite noisy though...don't know if that is normal or if it is about to go kaput...
dang brake master cylinder is rusted...I need to clean and treat it with something...can't keep rust off it.
My headers are showing some rust colored spots through the Eastwood header paint I used...disappointing
My headers are showing some rust colored spots through the Eastwood header paint I used...disappointing
I had very good luck with the VHT flame proof header paint on a used set of headers. Sandblasted to bare, then three or four thin coats of the VHT and three years later they still looked good.
As for the master, maybe swap in one of the aluminum versions? Might not be 100% period correct, but it won't look like ass.
As for the master, maybe swap in one of the aluminum versions? Might not be 100% period correct, but it won't look like ass.
I meant manifolds...I have manifolds...
Should still work the same...the VHT I used was a silver/dull gray, and stayed that way.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I've got some "clay coating" from mud pit in Hollister on my manifolds. It looks horrible but has worked well at keeping the rust off. 
Maybe I'll clean them and try the VHT...
Maybe I'll clean them and try the VHT...
here's how my manny's look after 2 yr's with the Eastwood stuff I used..
I decided to clean up my other set of wheels, the big ones...cleaned them with steel wool and soap to get the overspray off of them....
I go to put them on and get to the last one, the passenger front and I am tightening the lug nuts....there is one that has always been trouble ever since the jerkwad at NTB tried to force one on.
It stripped and is stuck...it spins but I can't pull it off.
How dangerous is it to drive with five lugs and how big a deal is getting another threaded lug in there?
I go to put them on and get to the last one, the passenger front and I am tightening the lug nuts....there is one that has always been trouble ever since the jerkwad at NTB tried to force one on.
It stripped and is stuck...it spins but I can't pull it off.
How dangerous is it to drive with five lugs and how big a deal is getting another threaded lug in there?
it'll be ok to drive, but try to get it fixed...
you'll have to cut that nut off if you can't mechanically remove it... maybe try some big visegrips clamped on with steady outward pressure to maybe catch an outward thread and get it off one last time...
you'll have to pull the rotor to put a new stud in... easy enough, but probably a couple hr's work if you've never done it...
you'll have to cut that nut off if you can't mechanically remove it... maybe try some big visegrips clamped on with steady outward pressure to maybe catch an outward thread and get it off one last time...
you'll have to pull the rotor to put a new stud in... easy enough, but probably a couple hr's work if you've never done it...
