The other side is tight and close enough...the gap is acceptable on that side...so I would only need to do it to one fender.
Do you think that one "stretched out" while it was in the parts yard for years? Or it was just made different?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
The other side is tight and close enough...the gap is acceptable on that side...so I would only need to do it to one fender.
Do you think that one "stretched out" while it was in the parts yard for years? Or it was just made different?
what about splitting the difference? easy enough to shove the hood over...
I will try adjusting the hood and see if I can find a happy medium.
Good pics, Chief. One thought, grab something soft, Popsicle stick, or softer, that won't scratch the paint, cut it to a loose fit at the windshield end of the hood crack on the other side, and slide it gently towards the front.
Easier than measuring different places.
I'm wondering if the hood is "twisted" slightly so that the front is farther over to one side than the back.
In other words, instead of moving the hood over, loosening the bolts slightly and just moving the front over might help.
Easier than measuring different places.
I'm wondering if the hood is "twisted" slightly so that the front is farther over to one side than the back.
In other words, instead of moving the hood over, loosening the bolts slightly and just moving the front over might help.
I messed with it all day today.
I did get it to "average out" where the gaps are the same on both sides...even though they are still bigger than I would like.
Getting the gaps to even out means that I am slightly out of alignment in other places...but just slightly.
After messing with it today I am almost certain that nothing will close those gaps except some drastic measures...either modifying the inside of the fenders or cutting the core support. Neither of which I am willing to do. I guess when I get everything paid down and I have some extra one day I will take it a shop and let them do whatever needs to be done to make the gaps smaller.
Meantime, it looks great from 20 feet...but up close I feel like they are too wide.
I did get it to "average out" where the gaps are the same on both sides...even though they are still bigger than I would like.
Getting the gaps to even out means that I am slightly out of alignment in other places...but just slightly.
After messing with it today I am almost certain that nothing will close those gaps except some drastic measures...either modifying the inside of the fenders or cutting the core support. Neither of which I am willing to do. I guess when I get everything paid down and I have some extra one day I will take it a shop and let them do whatever needs to be done to make the gaps smaller.
Meantime, it looks great from 20 feet...but up close I feel like they are too wide.
Still waiting on seats so I can drive it again...he is supposed to have those done by end of this month...which is only 2 days.
I've seen high-end shops actually MIG weld the edge of a panel to build up the material and close gaps tighter. You'd have to repaint the hood (obviously) but everything is still so new and fresh that a color match won't be an issue.
Welding on such a thin edge is time consuming and fussy, but it's probably still easier and faster than almost any other options.
-G
Welding on such a thin edge is time consuming and fussy, but it's probably still easier and faster than almost any other options.
-G
Good point greg, maybe something similar to what norcal69 did with his rocker panels.
that seems reasonable
It has been nearly a year since the paint and I got to looking at it real close because I haven't washed it or waxed it.
I see a lot of "specs" or trash or "nibs" in some areas.
It occurred to me that it has never been "cut and buffed".
I looked up some videos on cutting and buffing...I am a bit scared to wet sand.
Is that the only way to get trash and nibs off the clear?
I see a lot of "specs" or trash or "nibs" in some areas.
It occurred to me that it has never been "cut and buffed".
I looked up some videos on cutting and buffing...I am a bit scared to wet sand.
Is that the only way to get trash and nibs off the clear?
Wash, clay bar, machine polish, sealer wax, top coat wax
I got my stove pipe assembly installed finally..
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Now it is time to start thinking about how to do the fiberglass top
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
I know ryoken has been busy busting ass on mutt right now, but I'm sure he'll have some tips for ya.
that's dry-arse chit there... you need to resaturate that stuff... wet those areas out with thinned polyester resin.. dry... sand whole top.. do any bodywork, prime, paint..
Do I need fabric...or just resin? Maybe this?
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/evercoat-boatyard-resin.htm?feed=Froogle&gclid=CLyugd7j8cQCFdcegQodXo8AZg
I run hi-bond these days for repairs..
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/hi-bond...Th2HVra5rIaVMLJKzJFEHiNbvyWA9XsLOZRoCOn_w_wcB
the bulk stuff we use at the boat factory is real good...
thin it out with a bit of thinner or acetone... dab the hairy areas with the end of a soaked brush, than brush a thick unthinned coat on... dry.. sand...
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/hi-bond...Th2HVra5rIaVMLJKzJFEHiNbvyWA9XsLOZRoCOn_w_wcB
the bulk stuff we use at the boat factory is real good...
thin it out with a bit of thinner or acetone... dab the hairy areas with the end of a soaked brush, than brush a thick unthinned coat on... dry.. sand...
I ordered it...will post back when I get it
Hard top......BOOOOOO!!!
Amity is no place for this type of talk.
-G
Amity is no place for this type of talk.
-G
