Hard top......BOOOOOO!!!
Amity is no place for this type of talk.
-G
I hear you...but it is part of the deal...if I want to be able to drive it on a longer trip or in the rain, it has to have the top.
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I hear you...but it is part of the deal...if I want to be able to drive it on a longer trip or in the rain, it has to have the top.
Jester1
1/2 ton status
/\/\ You didn't say hard top. /\ /\ wink wink
come up with a top that doesn't require drilling holes in my windshield frame and I will probably buy it
Alpha1victor
1/2 ton status
help
Im sorry if im jumping in the middle of something here, but i was hoping to get some help. I have 2 spots of rust on my otherwise perfect crew cab. The first spot is on the drivers side windshield piller and the other is the passenger side top door jam. The windshield i believe i can cut out the rusted spot and weld in the new metal but the other area im not so confident in. Please help!
Im sorry if im jumping in the middle of something here, but i was hoping to get some help. I have 2 spots of rust on my otherwise perfect crew cab. The first spot is on the drivers side windshield piller and the other is the passenger side top door jam. The windshield i believe i can cut out the rusted spot and weld in the new metal but the other area im not so confident in. Please help!
Almost everything about rust and rust repair is covered in this thread.
You will have to clean it so you can see what is really there....then cut out and replace the rotted metal. You will have to blast it or wire brush it to see all the damage.
If you have specific questions about how to do that or what to use, refer to this thread or ask the question in the Garage...someone will chime in.
Quickest way is to read the very first part of this thread...the cleanup and treatment and repair is covered in detail....as are the high quality materials and chemicals and fillers and sandpapers.
You will have to clean it so you can see what is really there....then cut out and replace the rotted metal. You will have to blast it or wire brush it to see all the damage.
If you have specific questions about how to do that or what to use, refer to this thread or ask the question in the Garage...someone will chime in.
Quickest way is to read the very first part of this thread...the cleanup and treatment and repair is covered in detail....as are the high quality materials and chemicals and fillers and sandpapers.
Alpha1victor
1/2 ton status
I have experience in minor body work. I understand all the cutting, blasting, abrasive stuff. My question is not the prep it's how to I repair the areas mentioned to give me a factory like finish. The windshield area is almost a given but thought I'd double check here just incase. The rear door jam is what I need help with. I posted in the garage area with no luck, that's why I came here.
it's custom patch work... can be VERY time consuming when done right.... can't be rushed... determine good metal.. cut... blast...weld prime... as many patches as it takes... could be 3 or 4 for a spot in the door jam..
usually stuff up high scares me... and I've BUILT qrter panels, wheelwells, etc.. I junked my 77 cuz of it... rot around the windows, jambs.. bulging joints in the window frames.. not good, indicative of bigger issues sometimes... be warned....
that said, feel free to pm me any time for detailed stuff...
usually stuff up high scares me... and I've BUILT qrter panels, wheelwells, etc.. I junked my 77 cuz of it... rot around the windows, jambs.. bulging joints in the window frames.. not good, indicative of bigger issues sometimes... be warned....
that said, feel free to pm me any time for detailed stuff...
I am only 1/3 of the way through this thread, but I have a question that someone might be able to help me with. I recently bought a near-rust-free 74 K5 body to replace my almost-nothing-but-rust 73 K5 I have. There are a few spots on the new body that need some attention, and I live 4 blocks from the beach where we get some serious salt air. I plan on stripping and Rhinolining the interior before I swap it onto my frame. What should I do right now to keep little spots of rust from getting worse? There is a spot on the upper windshield frame with surface rust, and I want to stop it right now, until I have the time to give it the proper treatments. Could I just hit it with some galvanizing spray paint as a very temporary fix to stop the rust from spreading? This will be for a month or so until tax returns come and I can invest in some tools and materials.
The worst area by far is the tailpan area near the C pillars, not sure what the solution will be here, but I'm sure I'll figure it out by the time I get to the end of this thread.
The worst area by far is the tailpan area near the C pillars, not sure what the solution will be here, but I'm sure I'll figure it out by the time I get to the end of this thread.
the best thing to do is remove as much as possible quickly, hit with grinder, sander, etc.. wipe down with thinner.. than put a converter on it...
Thank you sir. I'll be peppering this thread with redundant questions later...
...kidding....
...kidding....
This stuff is good, not sure if there is a "local" equivalent
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
Just to be clear...
If I am able to remove all of the rust from an area, such as the small spot on the outer windshield frame, which should be easy... still hit it with the converter? Or would I hit that with some of Ryoken's magic green??
At any rate, I'm sure at some point I'll need some of the zinc chromate, whats a typical price per can now in 2015?
Still not quite halfway through this thread... but moving right along.
If I am able to remove all of the rust from an area, such as the small spot on the outer windshield frame, which should be easy... still hit it with the converter? Or would I hit that with some of Ryoken's magic green??
At any rate, I'm sure at some point I'll need some of the zinc chromate, whats a typical price per can now in 2015?
Still not quite halfway through this thread... but moving right along.
about $9.00 http://www.wholesalemarine.com/moeller-marine-zinc-chromate-spray-primer-79132.html?gclid=CJP1sNf4-8QCFYo9gQodybgANQ
If you got the area clean I would still try to blow some converter into any areas you cannot get to...like in any channels or seams.
The Ryoken Green keeps clean metal clean...I sort of layed it on thick sometimes but Ryoken says a p!sscoat will do...
I like having the zinc, then the 2K Primer under the paint...already I have knocked off some paint in a couple places on the roll bar and while it scrapes the black satin paint it didn't make it through the Primer...tough stuff...and the zinc is still there to keep the rust localized to the scrape if it were to get to bare metal.
Great system...built in protection...
Found out late today that my bucket seats are done...will go get them Monday.
I also got a quart of Boatyard Resin and it has a tiny, and I mean tiny tube of hardener.
Do I do any prep to the fiberglass top before I "saturate those areas?
I also got a quart of Boatyard Resin and it has a tiny, and I mean tiny tube of hardener.
Do I do any prep to the fiberglass top before I "saturate those areas?
ummmm, in the morn... polyester is a strangle animal.....
couple quick pics of the newly re-upholstered seats
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks worth the wait!
well...they are the 'correct" color...I know that for sure...it was a long wait though...I may get the rear seat tomorrow...he was finishing up the buttons
It's going to be a beautiful day tomorrow...I will be driving it to work....for the first time in a several months.
I put new shocks on the rear last week...the ride is really tight...no drifting, and with the interior bedpanels it is a bit quieter...not as much body noise.
The cb works...but I can't hear what is being said while driving with the top off...when I pull over and stop it is clear.
I put new shocks on the rear last week...the ride is really tight...no drifting, and with the interior bedpanels it is a bit quieter...not as much body noise.
The cb works...but I can't hear what is being said while driving with the top off...when I pull over and stop it is clear.
the seats look awesome.... enjoy the drive!
