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brockmub
Guest
AWESOME!!! That's what I needed... now I have a clue so I can get a start on it. Sweet.
Who needs a manual when you've got CK5 forums!
Who needs a manual when you've got CK5 forums!
CK5
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as far as your xcase goes it should have a seal on it with the case and the ratio. it wouldn't hurt if you had extra fluid to change that out too.
70gmcjimmy
Registered Member
Another SoDak
Brockmub---
Your Blazer looks to have a lot of potential! I see in your pics it has Charles Mix county plates. Is that where you are located? I'm out west near R.C., long ways from 17 county! I still regret selling the '75 K5 I had in the mid 90s.
Later---DAC
Brockmub---
Your Blazer looks to have a lot of potential! I see in your pics it has Charles Mix county plates. Is that where you are located? I'm out west near R.C., long ways from 17 county! I still regret selling the '75 K5 I had in the mid 90s.
Later---DAC
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h0wl0ngcanitbe
1/2 ton status
x2 best investment ive made into my blazer and ive dumped nearly 29k into my rig!
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brockmub
Guest
Yeah another SoDakian! I found the Blazer out in Platte and it's currently outside of Freeman, while I have to live in Sioux Falls.
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brockmub
Guest
The X2 is the Factory Shop Manual, right? I'm not exactly sure about what the X2 is? X-men 2?
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
X2 = times 2
h0wl0ngcanitbe
1/2 ton status
the times two was on the membership! but you got that covered now!
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brockmub
Guest
next step... shocks.
So I installed new shocks today to replace the crap that was on there. The question is... Where should the top spacer go? Should it go on the frame side of the shock or the bracket side? I installed it on the frame side... does it matter?
Check out the images of what I'm talking about.
So I installed new shocks today to replace the crap that was on there. The question is... Where should the top spacer go? Should it go on the frame side of the shock or the bracket side? I installed it on the frame side... does it matter?
Check out the images of what I'm talking about.
rjpastor
1/2 ton status
That is a SUPPLEMENT. If you read the description it tells you it's specific to 1976 for changes, but refers you back to '74 for other stuff. If you have a '76, you need the '74 also. They also tend to cover all "light" trucks: 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton and up. I have a 76 and I ended up buying three different manuals - all factory. However, it's worth the effort - they are very complete.
Not sure it matters on the spacer
Looks like it is coming along nicely. When I read your first post about dragging the Blazer out of the trees on the farm.... I thought this guy has got to be from east river SD or SW MN. Then I see you are from SD. I am from Marshall MN and went to school in Rapid City. Good luck with the blazer!
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brockmub
Guest
Does that sound like a SD kind of thing to do? Or is it the fact that every grove of trees around here has a dead truck sitting in it? I feel so bad for all of those trucks, I just want to take them all home and do something with them.
I have a disease.
I have a disease.
70gmcjimmy
Registered Member
Same disease! I want to haul home all those GMC's and Chevy trucks I see also! It breaks my heart to drive by the local recyclers these days and see those trucks getting grabbed by the "pinchers" and thrown in the scrap piles. A guy I work with is gonna scrap a 71ish Chevy K20 and I am scrambling to come up with scrap value- around here its around $110 dollars/ton so I have to come up with around 2-250 bucks right after using my truck allowance on a '89 K10 Burban for $650.
That would be cool to have a family farm! Especially when it is stocked up with lots of American iron! I only have an acre and whiney neighbors. We just came back to Rapid City from a visit to Denver up I-25 thru Wyoming and was happy to see that the prices of steel hasen't affected much of the old iron along the way. I guess with Wyomings economy running high people aren't as willing to sell cool old stuff for a hundred bucks a ton.
Later---DAC
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brockmub
Guest
Finally got some more work done... but what's next?
So I've been hesitant to do any more work on the Blazer for fear that I've bitten too much off. However, I did finish getting the shocks mounted and cleaned up some of the interior "accessories".
Here is a good pic of the new set of shocks. The left side was a bugger to get off but we found room between the body and the gas tank.
After the shocks were done I started removing the misc wires that were hanging down around my feet and in the engine bay. There was a CB speaker, Kmart fog lights, illuminated switch, 5 ice bag metal ties, and a steering column tach. I might pull the fuses out of the wiring but I'm sure that I'm going to pitch the rest. While working under the dash, I tapped the radio, and noticed........
It's an 8-track!!! Now I have to finish this project. In the engine bay, I also looked at the AC compressor and got the feeling that it should come off too if I'm going to do any engine work.
So what should be my next step with the Blazer?
1. Engine - Have the engine checked to see if it's worth rebuilding
1a. If it's good - build a 383 Stroker - proceed to step 2
1b. If it's good - rebuild the 350 - proceed to step 2
1b. If it's bad - drive it till it grenades and sell it for parts/scrap - find a new project
2. Interior -
2a. Tear out the interior and rhino line it so I don't have to drive with the top on all summer.
2b. Replace the "Pearl" interior back to stock
2c. Replace the interior with a new Chevy interior and a van Quick release back bench seat so I can haul more when I need it.
3. Exterior - floors, quarters, doors are all rusted through.... Top - solid
3a. replace steal back to factory look
3b. replace steal/rusty quarters with Fiberglass
3c. borrow a neighbors cutting tool and welder to cut out the wheels and weld up the holes in the floor
Any thoughts????
So I've been hesitant to do any more work on the Blazer for fear that I've bitten too much off. However, I did finish getting the shocks mounted and cleaned up some of the interior "accessories".
Here is a good pic of the new set of shocks. The left side was a bugger to get off but we found room between the body and the gas tank.
After the shocks were done I started removing the misc wires that were hanging down around my feet and in the engine bay. There was a CB speaker, Kmart fog lights, illuminated switch, 5 ice bag metal ties, and a steering column tach. I might pull the fuses out of the wiring but I'm sure that I'm going to pitch the rest. While working under the dash, I tapped the radio, and noticed........
It's an 8-track!!! Now I have to finish this project. In the engine bay, I also looked at the AC compressor and got the feeling that it should come off too if I'm going to do any engine work.
So what should be my next step with the Blazer?
1. Engine - Have the engine checked to see if it's worth rebuilding
1a. If it's good - build a 383 Stroker - proceed to step 2
1b. If it's good - rebuild the 350 - proceed to step 2
1b. If it's bad - drive it till it grenades and sell it for parts/scrap - find a new project
2. Interior -
2a. Tear out the interior and rhino line it so I don't have to drive with the top on all summer.
2b. Replace the "Pearl" interior back to stock
2c. Replace the interior with a new Chevy interior and a van Quick release back bench seat so I can haul more when I need it.
3. Exterior - floors, quarters, doors are all rusted through.... Top - solid
3a. replace steal back to factory look
3b. replace steal/rusty quarters with Fiberglass
3c. borrow a neighbors cutting tool and welder to cut out the wheels and weld up the holes in the floor
Any thoughts????
Where's the pictures?
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Id say start at the bottom and work you way up. Id gut the interior fix those floors find a back seat get all your metal work done. then either line the floors or get new carpet. I rhino lined the interior in mine i love it but it is just mostly for offroad, its pretty noisy without carpet. id get some rubber mats to help deaden the sound.
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brockmub
Guest
Did the pics not show? They show up on mine.
