y5mgisi
1 ton status
Im sure they will.
CK5
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sas on 2003 2500hd
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Sorry if you already answered this, bit what did you get the tone ring from on the front end
A company called dluxfab.com, eric makes the little kit for 150.00 and is real nice..............no abs light.....lol
Heres from today 4th day not ten hours tho...only 8...lol , shock mounts moved to the top of the arm, brakelines ran, abs hooked up, steering all ran and the centercaps cut out for the locking hubs. Tires rub the radius arms at full lock but only by the edge of the tires.
It sits about 3/4 of an inch higher in the front but it has to settle some anyway. In the pics there is all the ifs parts so im thinking close to 1000 pounds in there. Better pics tom after its unloaded. Also tires are turned some toward you in the pic, the tire is almost dead on center. Needs to be aligned yet tho, but it does drive straight up the road at 55 and rides fairly soft, not rough like the cranked ifs was.
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh that is the world i someday want to live in. Looks awesome!
Thanks guys, it did come out rather well. With the two of us doing it took 35 hours total, it drives prety nice, just alot softer then before. Everything had to be modded to fit right, the draglink and trac bar are exact angles which came out rather good. I had to notch the ord steering arm for full lock that it doesnt rub the lower coil mount. The brakes and abs seem the same as before.
Next to get done is cut the crossover pipe and take a 4 inch cut n turn it. Then measure for a new shaft from tattons. Prob will align it this week and empty out the bed.
Next to get done is cut the crossover pipe and take a 4 inch cut n turn it. Then measure for a new shaft from tattons. Prob will align it this week and empty out the bed.
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greatwhitez71
1/2 ton status
been out for awhile. looks good man, helluva job.
Today, with the bed empty....
.......tires turned slightly towards you...
.......tires turned slightly towards you...
It looks great. But there's an illusion that the axle is too far back. I know the uptravel is going to push the tires forward a bit but at ride height it just looks like it's too far back.
Not trying to rain on your parade, just thinking out loud.
Not trying to rain on your parade, just thinking out loud.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sits pretty dang level!
The tires are turned slightly so it looks like you said but measures with a tape exactly centered plus, minus 1/8 inch...thats pretty darn close. Ill take a new pic with the wheel centered, just a habit of doing that i guess.
Also with a plumb bob the point is exactly centered on the axle tube, remember toe isnt set yet either so that migh effect it too.
Ps....you wont rain on my parade....im smiling ear to ear everytime i see it...............lol..lol...lol.....lol
As for being level, the bed wheel well heigth sits at 48.5, the fender wheel well heigth is 49.25... Close enough till i do the rear springs, it has blocks now so ill be getting a set of 6 inch rear springs and then using a small block to level it up.....and thanks...
Also with a plumb bob the point is exactly centered on the axle tube, remember toe isnt set yet either so that migh effect it too.
Ps....you wont rain on my parade....im smiling ear to ear everytime i see it...............lol..lol...lol.....lol
As for being level, the bed wheel well heigth sits at 48.5, the fender wheel well heigth is 49.25... Close enough till i do the rear springs, it has blocks now so ill be getting a set of 6 inch rear springs and then using a small block to level it up.....and thanks...
Cleaned up some, gotta still do a few things. I ran the breather hose today, switched the dials on the hubs from the old set off of the 83, i had no idea just to take the screw out and change em or i would of done it a while ago. Painted gloss black all the parts and spots i missed. Gave it a good wash and wax, found something that totally sucks tho....left axle seal is leaking heavy so thats next on the agenda. I bought a 2x3 piece of rectangle tubing to make a new crossmember for up front by the steering box, going to bolt it up where the swaybar went.
Heres 2 pics from just it washed, its a bit brighter now tho...
Settled another 1/4 inch so it getting closer to being level, going to be adding a single stabilizer also. Just using a skycrapper shock for it, ill paint it so it more so blends in either silver or black.
Heres 2 pics from just it washed, its a bit brighter now tho...
Settled another 1/4 inch so it getting closer to being level, going to be adding a single stabilizer also. Just using a skycrapper shock for it, ill paint it so it more so blends in either silver or black.
From today, the stabilizer cant go any farther over since the trac bar mount is there. So i had to angle it also so it doesnt interfear with the cover, With the ruffstuff cover the tierod comes close. Looks kind of odd tho but i guess if it functions ok its ok....anyone..?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
It will work just fine like that. Is there a way of flipping it to the top side of the axle?
Actually i think so, might do that in the morning to see what happens. I think the krylon spray job with clear coat didnt do too bad...lol. Changing the exhaust tip since the dynomax is a rusted mess which sux for being a year old. Also adjusting the steering stops out a little so it doesnt rub.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Cool man. I say, if it works on top, run it! Even if it doesnt, it will be fine where its at, its just a begging to get bashed by rocks and junk is the only thing.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Stay out of rock piles..
Hey rob just wanted to say thank you for the lead on Justchevytrucks.com.
I got my shifter from him and they were awesome to deal with
One question, did you weld the 241 rod to the 261 rod? The 261 rod uses to female pieces and from the dealer print out the 241 has a male end and a threaded end on the other side.
Figured I could weld the two together to keep it adjustable and get the correct ends on her.
-shawn
Hey rob just wanted to say thank you for the lead on Justchevytrucks.com.
I got my shifter from him and they were awesome to deal with
One question, did you weld the 241 rod to the 261 rod? The 261 rod uses to female pieces and from the dealer print out the 241 has a male end and a threaded end on the other side.
Figured I could weld the two together to keep it adjustable and get the correct ends on her.
-shawn
The rock pile idea you can scratch that...it never sees or will see that.
No prob....anytime... atleast i can help someone....lol. At just chevy trucks there a good bunch of guys that help when they can, stew always was good when i called. They have alot on ebay too.
For the linkage i got the linkage piece for the 261 and bolted it where the 241 piece was(dealer item only..25.00). Then used the 261 linkage. Bought a piece of threaded rod and welded it to one end then welded a nut on the other, then thread it to where u need. Just use another nut for a jam nut. With the 261 linkage there wasnt enough adjustment, there is now tho....plenty. Maybe not the best way but worked perfectly. If you do use the 261 linkage tho make sure you bend the clips some so its a little tighter, then it doesnt pop off the ball.
Also looks stock with the nice new shifter inside, Even the foam is cut(nice template)...lol. just leave some meat around for the bolts. Either use self tappers or even use bolts/washers and ploy lock nuts so it doesnt move. I siliconed it before sitting it down so it seals and keeps the water out.
No prob....anytime... atleast i can help someone....lol. At just chevy trucks there a good bunch of guys that help when they can, stew always was good when i called. They have alot on ebay too.
For the linkage i got the linkage piece for the 261 and bolted it where the 241 piece was(dealer item only..25.00). Then used the 261 linkage. Bought a piece of threaded rod and welded it to one end then welded a nut on the other, then thread it to where u need. Just use another nut for a jam nut. With the 261 linkage there wasnt enough adjustment, there is now tho....plenty. Maybe not the best way but worked perfectly. If you do use the 261 linkage tho make sure you bend the clips some so its a little tighter, then it doesnt pop off the ball.
Also looks stock with the nice new shifter inside, Even the foam is cut(nice template)...lol. just leave some meat around for the bolts. Either use self tappers or even use bolts/washers and ploy lock nuts so it doesnt move. I siliconed it before sitting it down so it seals and keeps the water out.
Rob,
Now that you have a few miles on this mod, how would you rate it? How does it drive compared to stock? Anything you would change or like to see different?
Now that you have a few miles on this mod, how would you rate it? How does it drive compared to stock? Anything you would change or like to see different?
Not sure, it drives and looks good...lol.....drives pretty close to stock, way better than my ifs lift. Overall Rate the handling, driveability etc at a 95 it really handles good and drives excellent, no bump steer, wandering or anything
Ok..
1..i would prob try the ford steering that they used in the petersons mag, instead of messing with crossover/highsteer. just since it worked for them with ease. Then i could of used a regular trac bar mount on the axle and that would clear up more room. You can see in the pic2 above in post 113 that theres alot going on.
2..Spent more time and plated and smoothed the whole front frame rails to look cleaner, still might plate both sides of the coil buckets to hide the ifs control arm holes. (you can see in the pics of the frame and coil bucket)
3..I have the 8.5 lift coils, with them on my truck i had about 12....which sucked. I trimmed 2 full rings off so it would be close to the ride heigth. Which was fine, was jim coles(made the parts) idea and it worked real good. Would of been nice just to slide the correct ones in. Also cut them exact and each side of ride heigth is within a 1/8 inch. Was my fault i didnt order the 6.5 lift springs instead.
4..Should of done the whole thing years ago, now its a real truck....lol
"Check out the Bloody knuckle garage facebook page"
Ill add more when i think of it but its not a big deal, i 95 percent love the swap, i smile everytime i see it .....
Ok..
1..i would prob try the ford steering that they used in the petersons mag, instead of messing with crossover/highsteer. just since it worked for them with ease. Then i could of used a regular trac bar mount on the axle and that would clear up more room. You can see in the pic2 above in post 113 that theres alot going on.
2..Spent more time and plated and smoothed the whole front frame rails to look cleaner, still might plate both sides of the coil buckets to hide the ifs control arm holes. (you can see in the pics of the frame and coil bucket)
3..I have the 8.5 lift coils, with them on my truck i had about 12....which sucked. I trimmed 2 full rings off so it would be close to the ride heigth. Which was fine, was jim coles(made the parts) idea and it worked real good. Would of been nice just to slide the correct ones in. Also cut them exact and each side of ride heigth is within a 1/8 inch. Was my fault i didnt order the 6.5 lift springs instead.
4..Should of done the whole thing years ago, now its a real truck....lol
"Check out the Bloody knuckle garage facebook page"
Ill add more when i think of it but its not a big deal, i 95 percent love the swap, i smile everytime i see it .....
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