who knows .
I guess you don't want the bushing spinning in the knuckle to wear out its bore and be useless.
I guess you don't want the bushing spinning in the knuckle to wear out its bore and be useless.
CK5
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sas on 2003 2500hd
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
Yea i could see that, it would take a long time tho..lol. Now to think of that wouldnt it wear on the same place all the time , without them it would wear the whole piece...hmm, lol
I went out this am and removed the washers, it made a big differance. The tight steering is now a lil snug but way better than before. So i think that did the trick, ill just keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
Ive had no luck with this little swap....the steering sucks still, doesnt recenter all the way and stays slightly turned. Basicly you go side to side in your lane. So like i said before i removed the washers and it was still snug. I removed the eliminators and it still sucked with springs. So i removed it all and used new plastic bushings/springs/retainers and its back to normal. That is until i mess with it more, i ordered 2 springless adjustable caps. Either Im going to put those caps on with the reid bushings or eliminators with bronze bushings.Either way ill give her a try once more. After that its staying stock
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Interesting stuff anyway.
yea very..lol...i had the wheels of about 5 times in 3 days, it really sucked. Im no longer fixing whats not broke
... being back to stock all is good.
Have you had it professionally aligned somewhere you trust?
A buddy of mine has a shop with a real nice newer hunter alignment machine. It was aligned 6 months before when I bought the mtr's. The camber and toe are all almost dead on what they should be. Also it was done right after this mess this week, nothing changed. The only thing that had to be done was adjust the draglink to bring the wheel straight. I had to turn it in a few turns.( In the pic of the steering arm I put on a clearanced tre) It drives perfect with no shimmys or shakes. The km2's are getting older but the only thing I see is they are a little louder. I have 37-12.50-17 km2's on h2's for winter. They are on November till April. I did notice with the new steering arm it turns tighter than before. The hole location was a little different compared to the ord arm. The track bar and draglink angles are dead on.
I got this thing all straightened out, Started to piss me off..lol. I removed the bronze bushings and sold them, also pulled out the crane eliminators. I bought a pair of 4 wheel supply king pin springless caps. I pulled the cap off of the steering arm and bolted it on. I adjusted the preload with the linkage disconnected, for the 1st 30 miles or so it was a little snug but its real good now. Live and learn i guess, buy fancy not needed parts and something simple was the fix. I changed the tre back to a new straight one, it wasn't needed. I ran out of time to align it but ill get to it this weekend just to make sure its still all good. I cleaned all the grease off of the knuckles and changed the boot on the tre since it was torn and gave it some fresh paint.
"new changes"
I decided a month ago to order a set of king coilovers for the front. I'm going to lower it down some and move the axle forward. Maybe enough that I'll be trimming the bumper, we will see. The frame will be stripped of all the trash that's on there now and plated from the body mount forward. A hoop will be bent and bolted on to the rail. The upper and lower track bar mount will be removed also and a different style will be added to work with the uptravel. It won't be done for about 3 weeks, that's when garage space will be open. The heims are going to be changed to emf monster heims. Ordering those in the am. Also the 2.5 foa shocks on the front I bought rebuild kits and valving to use them on the rear. New mounts will be made for those too.
The kings came with the blue coil exchange program. I started with an 8 inch tall 400 top and a 14 inch 500 bottom( suggested by Brian at king). I searched tons for spring rates to find something close. All the rates vary from 250-600. I was even going to try a straight 400. I have now a 350 rate set of coils on the truck and they are a little soft. On my mind is 400/400 but I'll test out what I already have.
I decided a month ago to order a set of king coilovers for the front. I'm going to lower it down some and move the axle forward. Maybe enough that I'll be trimming the bumper, we will see. The frame will be stripped of all the trash that's on there now and plated from the body mount forward. A hoop will be bent and bolted on to the rail. The upper and lower track bar mount will be removed also and a different style will be added to work with the uptravel. It won't be done for about 3 weeks, that's when garage space will be open. The heims are going to be changed to emf monster heims. Ordering those in the am. Also the 2.5 foa shocks on the front I bought rebuild kits and valving to use them on the rear. New mounts will be made for those too.
The kings came with the blue coil exchange program. I started with an 8 inch tall 400 top and a 14 inch 500 bottom( suggested by Brian at king). I searched tons for spring rates to find something close. All the rates vary from 250-600. I was even going to try a straight 400. I have now a 350 rate set of coils on the truck and they are a little soft. On my mind is 400/400 but I'll test out what I already have.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Hopefully that will get you happy with it!
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Very cool man. I wish I could have gotten you more of my opinion with my rates to help you decide. Hope it works out.
Why did you decide to ditch the whole coil set up anyways?
Why did you decide to ditch the whole coil set up anyways?
I did a lot of searching on rates for these trucks. Right at 400 is the happy medium mark for a gas HD. I'll prob eventually do 400/400 or a straight 18 inch long 400. I have 350 now and its too soft. On my coilovers the springs now will be too firm on the bottom side. I also can't see with such a heavy truck with an upper/lower spring any lighter than a 350 unless its just a trail truck. My idea is to go a little firmer and delete the swaybar totally. With a 400/500 my initial rate will be a 222 until 4 inches get collapsed then it sits on the 500 for an inch. I'll know exactly is the 500 is too much when I drive it. Since when it gets to the 500 thats the rate. I wanna be like I said more than 350. So the lower could be in the 400-450 range. I have the blue coil return program so for different springs all I pay is shipping.
The coils work out actually fine, I want the Suspention tuned better tho. Like I said my 350 rate coils are a lil soft. I prob could keep buying coils but the height they are now its either custom or cut them. I'd rather not do either. Plus I really don't like the front shocks I have now. Plus I'd like the frame cleaned up and coilovers seem the best route.
The coils work out actually fine, I want the Suspention tuned better tho. Like I said my 350 rate coils are a lil soft. I prob could keep buying coils but the height they are now its either custom or cut them. I'd rather not do either. Plus I really don't like the front shocks I have now. Plus I'd like the frame cleaned up and coilovers seem the best route.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Gotcha. So have you tried slipping the springs on while fully extended? Can you get them on with a gap like I have or will it have some preload? Needing spring compressor tool to make them for?
The springs fit right on with the preload backed all the way off. I think its about 1/2 inch from the end. I won't know for a few weeks how it will all work out tho till they are on the truck.
Its going to turn into a whole new ball game, its all getting changed. Im going to do a 2 inch dom 4 link with ballistic 2.63 joints. I just ordered them from sdhq this morning. The 4 link will be like the fabworks or the pure performance style. The axle is getting moved forward 2 inches and all new brackets/mounts will be plasma cut. The rear should be getting the 2 inch blocks removed and the air bag mounts shortened. I should net about 6-7 inches of lift, it will be down for a little while this time.
Ill be removing all the radius arm/coil spring hardware and mounts. I will be selling all of it for whatever i can. Nothing is wrong with any of it, i just want to go a different route.
Ill be removing all the radius arm/coil spring hardware and mounts. I will be selling all of it for whatever i can. Nothing is wrong with any of it, i just want to go a different route.
How much you want for it?
Pm me.
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chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
Prank calls here we come
Times up...its gone..lol
