Are you talking you used the stt or stt pro..? The pro is supposed to be a different compound to go with the new tread design.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
sas on 2003 2500hd
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
Are you talking you used the stt or stt pro..? The pro is supposed to be a different compound to go with the new tread design.
Had some STT tires when I first started down there and they were great and then I started running the STT PRO and the guy that replaced me is still running STT PRO on a few trucks.
Happy Thanksgiving guys..!!!
Not really anything much going on.. I ran into a few problems with my coil overs, i wanted to swap the springs for softer ones. The top adjusting nuts bolt is bound up so i need to cut the bolt. On top of that one slider looks smashed so its not in good shape. That had me thinking about calling king, to check spring rates before i go thru all that. I had calculations done by brian at king. I had to measure my current spring length under weight and with it hanging. The amount of pre load i have now with my current springs is about perfect for the weight. The compression valving tho needs to be changed, i have .020 now so to soften it up 25% i'm going to .015s. That will take the edge off of the bounces, The springs will be the sames rates but set up different. The upper now is a 4 inch tall, it will be a 6 inch with the secondary stops set so the spring is 1/2 way compressed. The lower spring is now an 18, it will be a 16. So i ordered new valving, secondary nuts, sliders, adjusting nuts and eibach springs from poly performance since it was the best deal. Not too happy at a tune of 550.00 but hopefully its all taken care of. I have a fresh gallon of king shock oil too so i will change that when they are apart.
Not really anything much going on.. I ran into a few problems with my coil overs, i wanted to swap the springs for softer ones. The top adjusting nuts bolt is bound up so i need to cut the bolt. On top of that one slider looks smashed so its not in good shape. That had me thinking about calling king, to check spring rates before i go thru all that. I had calculations done by brian at king. I had to measure my current spring length under weight and with it hanging. The amount of pre load i have now with my current springs is about perfect for the weight. The compression valving tho needs to be changed, i have .020 now so to soften it up 25% i'm going to .015s. That will take the edge off of the bounces, The springs will be the sames rates but set up different. The upper now is a 4 inch tall, it will be a 6 inch with the secondary stops set so the spring is 1/2 way compressed. The lower spring is now an 18, it will be a 16. So i ordered new valving, secondary nuts, sliders, adjusting nuts and eibach springs from poly performance since it was the best deal. Not too happy at a tune of 550.00 but hopefully its all taken care of. I have a fresh gallon of king shock oil too so i will change that when they are apart.
These tires work awesome in the snow..!!! Been running around in 2wd, well until i stomp on it and then its sideways all the way up the street...lol.
I'll be doing the coil over springs and valving shortly. Next on my list is the front brakes and abs. Since my 60 has all chevy parts from the c's out it will be getting converter back to ford. The reasoning for that is so i can run my stock 2500hd brakes, wfo makes a bolt on caliper mount to run them. Plus they have a bolt on abs sensor mount. That makes everything work together again and i do think the hd brakes do work a little better. Edit.. There's a few ways to go about this. I will be selling all the chevy not needed parts to re-coop some of the wasted money. It will be either reid or solid knuckles, the stock fords have built in camber...no thanks...lol. The rest i'll pick up used to cheapen up the deal.....except for the stubs unless i can get really decent used ones. I could do 35 spline stubs with yukon lockouts but not sure at the moment. I will have the ford wheel hubs machined for the tone rings, drilled for metric studs and the front surface cut for the slip on rotors.
Links to the wfo parts :
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/DMAX-Speed-Sensor-Bracket-for-78-97-Ford-Knuckle/9105/10446/19152
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/78-91-Ford-60-Brake-Brackets-Fits-Chevy-HD-Brakes-and-ABS/10449
Links to the wfo parts :
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/DMAX-Speed-Sensor-Bracket-for-78-97-Ford-Knuckle/9105/10446/19152
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/78-91-Ford-60-Brake-Brackets-Fits-Chevy-HD-Brakes-and-ABS/10449
Last edited:
I started a thread last week on the dana 60 brake upgrade, the wfo brake deal in the above post would probably be fine but my 60 is chevy from the c's out and it will cost way too much money for what i will get. Searching and starting that brake thread made me decide to do the torq big brake kit. http://www.torqmotorsports.com/Dana-60-Big-Brake-Brackets_p_263.html. I called and asked a few questions and this is my best bet to get better brakes, with 14 inch rotors and converting it into slip on rotors makes it even better. I ordered the brackets and monday 15th they are coming ups, caliper bolts came yesterday, new abs mounts and wires came last week. The rotors/calipers/pads will be here next week too. I ordered a power stop slotted/drilled rotors with ceramic pads and reman powder coated calipers. Hopefully i will have that done in the next few weeks.
Finally...Tomorrow i'll be re valving the kings along with swapping the spings for eibachs. I bought a regulator and gauges for the nitrigen fill, a buddy loaned me a filled tank for the weekend so hopefully it all goes well. I'll have pics from this in the afternoon if it all goes smooth.
Finally...Tomorrow i'll be re valving the kings along with swapping the spings for eibachs. I bought a regulator and gauges for the nitrigen fill, a buddy loaned me a filled tank for the weekend so hopefully it all goes well. I'll have pics from this in the afternoon if it all goes smooth.
This was a bitch, the coilover upper bolt was froze in the sleeve. First had to heat those up and had to air hammer em out. Both preload nuts had the bolts froze in them so I cut the bolt and used a punch to spread it apart...I needed to loosen up the preload. After that both shocks about fell off..lol. The upper cap was super tight, took a bit to get em off. Had to wire wheel the threads and never seize the threads. I got the new upper nuts and secondary nuts on. Loosened the bottom set screw, pushed on the shock body and pulled out the snap ring. Pulled the shaft out, loosened the nut and swapped the compression valving. Put all back together and adjusted it so the top spring isn't so compressed. Charged em with 200 and it seems pretty good. It's alot softer than before from what I can tell with the snow covered roads.
what anti-sieze are you using ?
should be copper or nickle based for best results . not the aluminum based reg every day stuff.
should be copper or nickle based for best results . not the aluminum based reg every day stuff.
Just the silver stuff, I didn't know there was others. Wouldn't the silver still work..?
you need to get out more . . .
basic aluminum silver is kind of o.k.
i like copper based a lot better .
and for high heat or stainless stuff nickle based .
basic https://www.permatex.com/products/l...s-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/
mid https://www.permatex.com/products/l...i-seize/permatex-copper-anti-seize-lubricant/
prem https://www.permatex.com/products/l...i-seize/permatex-nickel-anti-seize-lubricant/
i have seen bolts from the 60's with copper anti-sieze on them come out with hand tools with over 300k miles in the rust belt .
basic aluminum silver is kind of o.k.
i like copper based a lot better .
and for high heat or stainless stuff nickle based .
basic https://www.permatex.com/products/l...s-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/
mid https://www.permatex.com/products/l...i-seize/permatex-copper-anti-seize-lubricant/
prem https://www.permatex.com/products/l...i-seize/permatex-nickel-anti-seize-lubricant/
i have seen bolts from the 60's with copper anti-sieze on them come out with hand tools with over 300k miles in the rust belt .
Lol, yea your right.. I only ever seen silver, its all we ever had. I used it many times on bolts and threads and never had a problem. I'll get the premium stuff now, thanks by the way..
if you use basic aluminum based silver on stainless stuff it will gall the threads and your screwed . they need min of copper based .
I don't think any of its stainless, bolts are just regular grade 8's and it's thru aluminum or steel, So I should be good.
I thought I had all the parts to do the brake swap, opened the power-stop pad and rotor kit and it's missing the drivers side rotor. I bolted the bracket to the caliper and it fit perfect, the bolts tho were cheap from mopar. The caliper I a foot across, it's huge compared to the ones on the 60. Here's a pic of the brackets and the bracket bolted to the caliper.
Here's a comparison with the dana 60 brakes to the dodge 3500 and what it will look like.
Just for u I'll get an exact pic next Sunday of the difference when I pull mine apart. The rotors tho aren't much bigger tho. Still think they are maybe 12 inch if that. Plus the calipers aren't that big compared to the dodges so it's STILL a huge upgrade
just calling it as I see it BUDDY 
be nice to see feedback on this upgrade .
be nice to see feedback on this upgrade .
Lol, it better be good feedback for 600.00 worth of parts. Plus the 175.00 2011 hydroboost booster. Prob couldnt do it much cheaper either, this dodge crap isn't cheap. The calipers are enormous, only shitty part is 17 is the smallest wheel that will fit.
What's the piston diameter on those calipers? What rotor diameter?
