Sealed beam to ?? conversion

[EddieExpedition]

Thanks for that!

How long have you been running them?

Do they have high beams? Philips hasn't responded to my question, but there is no need for three pins if they only have low.

They do have high beams and I’m running them all now. We’ve had them for over a year now with no issues. H4651led Is the high beam.

1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD 6.6L 400cid V8 Headlamp Bulb | Shop Now at RockAuto

Electrical-Bulb & Socket Parts and More for Your 1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[EddieExpedition]

They do have high beams and I’m running them all now. We’ve had them for over a year now with no issues. H4651led Is the high beam.

1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD 6.6L 400cid V8 Headlamp Bulb | Shop Now at RockAuto

Electrical-Bulb & Socket Parts and More for Your 1979 PONTIAC FIREBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

the link is to a Pontiac, but it’s listed under the blazer on Rock Auto as well.

 

[Blue85]

But any lighting is better when you supply it with more voltage.

I have no doubt you see at least 1.5v if not 2v

I'm not sure this applies the same to LED, which I mentioned before. They don't "run on" 12V, they require a conversion - ideally a current regulator. That makes them sort of constant power devices, drawing more current as the voltage drops. I don't know what's really in these "bulbs", but if you have LED, a simple experiment would be to turn the engine off to see how sensitive they are to voltage change.

Plus, they are drawing a lot less current than halogens, so whatever resistance is in the wiring doesn't cause as much voltage drop. Who knows, maybe the factory wiring is adequate for LEDs? Curious to know more.

 

[ZooMad75]

That makes sense. Hadn’t looked at the LED’s that way. I haven’t specifically shut the engine off with the lights on to view any change in brightness. But I can remember when I was going to aim them on a building one night I shut the engine off and left the lights on. I don’t remember any significant change in the brightness.

Relays with LEDs may not matter as much, but mine are fed with a heavier gauge wire than the factory lighting which would help with the current load.

 

[Kain]

Are those Phillips bulbs plastic

 

[EddieExpedition]

Are those Phillips bulbs plastic

Yes.

 

[dyeager535]

Yes.

Yep. Pretty much all of the LED's are.

Even the ~$300/each JB Speaker units that are heated use plastic lenses (The new Holly Retrobrights do too). I assume one of the reasons is cost, the other durability. I'm sure plastic lenses can and do shatter when hit good, but I assume the plastic is less likely to have issues from a rock strike than glass.

 

[dyeager535]

I decided to try out the Phillips H4656 (high/low beam). Bought two of them at $110/each from Rockauto.

Should be able to install them within the week.

Is there any testing anyone wants me to do?

- I'll test voltage to the lights before I do anything for sure

- I'd like to run a before/after test powering the halogens through the headlight circuit, then directly from the battery

- obviously a low-beam test of the two halogens vs. two LED's

- maybe test high beam with four halogen vs. two LED's, then four halogens vs. two LED's/two halogens

- not sure if a test of a single bulb would be worthwhile? One single halogen, then one single LED in the same position? I'm personally curious what the beam patterns of the halogen and LED look like

Probably try to find a non-reflective sign as the straight ahead "target" to test effective illumination distance, and use another object to compare the left/right limits of the beam patterns.

 

[bigjimmy82]

I curious how they look in the truck during the day also. I don’t drive it at night too much and a lot of the LED’s throw off the look to me. These look fairly stock with just the black bar at the top, should blend in.

Hoping a nice clean cutoff as well.

 

[dyeager535]

This was posted before: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/sealed-beam-to-conversion.345617/page-2#post-4254141

I think they do look "off" in contrast with the halogens below, but if you had a two headlight setup, or went with all four LED, I think they would blend in decently.

I finally made the decision that if I want good lighting, I'm willing to trade aesthetics for it if the cost was in my range. The truck itself isn't anything to look at, why worry about the headlights? lol

The Holley Retrobrights would be my choice if price wasn't a consideration, simply because they too work very well, and they look right on the vehicle.

 

[Blue85]

I guess camera comparisons have to be done with an SLR and the same settings applied each time. Otherwise, you need a light meter and some reasonable number of sample points within the beam pattern to be scientific about light output. Really, pattern is more important than output. Crappy lights put a ton of light right in front of the car and your eyes adjust to that so you still can't see down the road.

 

[dyeager535]

I might try it with my GoPro and my phone camera. I'm not sure which of those will work better at night.

I tend to agree, beam pattern is the most important thing, I think perhaps with the right "target", and measured distance, one might get a better idea of how effective the light output is straight ahead. I'd like to see if they are any better at illuminating close in, to the sides as well. In tight conditions at night I've noticed its hard to see what you might be turning into.

 

[EddieExpedition]

To me, they look better than the lights with a bunch of leds in them. The light output and beam is excellent, very comparable to a new vehicle. They have a sharp cutoff.

 

[EddieExpedition]

Here’s what both look like.

 

[dyeager535]

I don't think those look bad at all. I accidentally ordered one of the high-only versions, but I have no intention of running it.

Are yours set up as factory with two high/low and two high only? Curious what you think about the effectiveness and necessity of high beams with those.

 

[EddieExpedition]

I don't think those look bad at all. I accidentally ordered one of the high-only versions, but I have no intention of running it.

Are yours set up as factory with two high/low and two high only? Curious what you think about the effectiveness and necessity of high beams with those.

Yes, they are set up like factory. I ran just the high/low for a while, but with the high only halogens the lighting was ok, kinda odd. They have a different light color and with the led highs, it’s pretty incredible, especially for a plug and play.

I never really needed the highs once I put in the high/low leds. I just wanted them to match.

 

[dyeager535]

Yes, they are set up like factory. I ran just the high/low for a while, but with the high only halogens the lighting was ok, kinda odd. They have a different light color and with the led highs, it’s pretty incredible, especially for a plug and play.

I never really needed the highs once I put in the high/low leds. I just wanted them to match.

My experience with LEDs in my newer car. The lows are so good that I'm almost never driving somewhere the highs are useful to the distance they are capable of. And the reflection off of road signs is blinding.

Wonder how much adjustment I can get out of those lower positions. Maybe turn them into low beam fog lights or something lol.

 

[dyeager535]

The beginning.

Tested the wiring:
Battery 14.5V (idling obviously)
Headlight plug. Low 13.1V
Headlight plug. Low, disconnected: 13.6V

Headlight plug. High 12.1V
Headlight plug. High, disconnected 12.5V

Not going to mess with the wiring for the LED's to get battery voltage. The plugs are correct as-is for my truck, I assume all are wired the same, so should be plug and play for everyone.

Impressions? Quite heavy. Obviously not just cheap construction. Wires are sturdy. Almost looks like the lenses could be replaced?? Don't want to attempt just to see, but if one gets cracked I will. Everything is plastic except the section that is finned on the back, obviously the heatsink.

Oh, and not chinese.

 

[fordsucks!]

I do suffer from overly bright on coming headlights, that I have taken to wearing my old school amber shooting glasses at night.

When I drive my blazer, oncoming headlights seem to be blinding. I don't get this in any of my modern cars, I assume it's the angle of the windshield or the 50-year-old Chevrolet glass is missing something?

 

[dyeager535]

All halogen images taken with truck running. LEDs don't change with truck running or not. "Targets" 60ft out from truck. About a 15ft dead zone in front of the truck that doesn't exist with the halogens. Based on driver position that doesn't matter, except off to the front left and front right. You get no illumination close in at the corners, which would help if you are say, making a tight turn.

Low beam halogens:

High/low halogens:

Single Passenger Side (PS) halogen low beam, stock wiring:

Single PS halogen low beam, direct to battery:

Single PS LED low beam, truck off:

Both LEDs, low:

High LED/Halogen:

Low LEDs:

High LED/Halogen:

Lows at 3-500ft?

Exceptionally pleased with the outcome. Not completely done, still have to put the headlight trim back on. Have not gotten out to drive with them yet. The factory connectors arent a tight fit, I'm going to depin them tomorrow and figure out how to add some tension to the connectors.

#8 screws are what hold the headlight retainers to the headlight bucket. Highly recommend replacing those with stainless. Had some SS square drive #8 self tappers, and being careful, was able to use them without screwing up the threads.

Not a bad idea to have replacement plastic pieces for the headlight adjusters and trim retaining screws in case some break or get lost if doing a swap.