Kain
3/4 ton status
Look on Amazon with that part number see if you can get it cheaper, even eBay
CK5
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Sealed beam to ?? conversion
- Thread starter dyeager535
- Start date
I distinctly remember your post and the photos, which clearly showed they are exceptional units. You've had them for almost five years now IIRC, are the lenses still nice and clear? How much sun do they see?
For the Philips? Not a lot of them out there actually. More expensive on eBay from what I've seen than rockauto.
However, if I'm going to veer away from the "stock look" at least one of our members here had a writeup on these that I just stumbled across https://www.amazon.com/Rectangular-...2RTM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
and was pleased. Most comments here were positive of the light pattern, and there are a lot of reviews on Amazon that are glowing...judging by the amount of junk out there, I'm skeptical of online reviews of LED headlights unless they show pictures of the performance, and the reviews have plenty of pics and videos of them in operation that to me show a big improvement over the halogens I currently have. Plus the reviews span years, so if there was a negative trend or pattern, or a complete ripoff, they would be gone. The price doesn't hurt ($112 for four), yet thats not the only consideration. You can't get "stock looking" LED headlights with heaters, and the only heated ones that are known good are the JW Speaker ones at around the same price point...but they don't look stock. If I'm just going to throw out aesthetics, and focus on performance, then cheaper lights could be fine, IF they perform. And from what I've seen, they do. Previous video I linked pans these, but now that I look at how they test them, it seems to me that shining the beam on a flat wall isn't really appropriate. A headlight "spreads" into the distance...where they talk about (and show) shadows and valleys on a flat wall, isn't going to be the same as seen in front of a vehicle on the road surface. I tend to overthink durability, even if these aren't the greatest for longevity, reality says they will last me decades based on my usage.
I've asked our member here about his longer term perspective on them, that will be helpful.
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I'm running this set that looks similar to your link but at $85/pair (different size) and they are an excellent upgrade.
2022 Upgraded Osram Chips 180W DOT 500% Bright Anti-glare H6054 5x7 7x6 Led Headlights,DRL Turn Signal Hi/Low Sealed Beam Compatible with Jeep Cherokee XJ Wrangler YJ Ford Chevy GMC Toyota Nissan Pair https://a.co/d/ffK7IIm
2022 Upgraded Osram Chips 180W DOT 500% Bright Anti-glare H6054 5x7 7x6 Led Headlights,DRL Turn Signal Hi/Low Sealed Beam Compatible with Jeep Cherokee XJ Wrangler YJ Ford Chevy GMC Toyota Nissan Pair https://a.co/d/ffK7IIm
Hmm, apparently not made in 4x6 unfortunately.
So have you done the measurement yet? The only upgrade that won't need the relay upgrade will be a nice LED setup, as it will have a current regulator (and they draw less current than halogen, so less voltage drop). I was just looking for numbers on this (sorry couldn't find any), but I remember getting like 40% more power through the lights, since you go from like 10V at the bulb to 12V.
No, unfortunately I am going to have to decide what I'm going to do then do it. I won't have time to test then order parts.
My alternator pushes about 14.5V at all times, I've tested the wiper motor and seen the same voltage there, so my expectation is that the headlights do as well. It won't take me much to test it, just going to have to wait until October to do everything.
I expect given my usage, the Philips will do the job. I'll convert over to a four hi/four low setup with halogens in the lower position so I will at least have lights should the LEDs get covered in snow. It's not likely I'll have problems that bad with snow, but it's also not something I'd like to experience.
So your logical conclusion is drawing 10-15A through dozens of feet of small gauge wiring through the fusible link, bulkhead, fuse panel, column switch, and a half dozen 30-year-old contacts produces no voltage drop?
EDIT: you had 14.5V from wiper motor + terminal to wiper motor - terminal throughout the stroke of the wipers? Please post pics.
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So your logical conclusion is drawing 10-15A through dozens of feet of small gauge wiring through the fusible link, bulkhead, fuse panel, column switch, and a half dozen 30-year-old contacts produces no voltage drop?
EDIT: you had 14.5V from wiper motor + terminal to wiper motor - terminal throughout the stroke of the wipers? Please post pics.
At full load, to include wipers (excepting stalled tailgate motor), headlights on high, heavy duty heater on high, and fuel injection, my alternator has no problem maintaining 14.5V through the fuse panel.
I measured voltage from the wiper motor + to the master cylinder as ground.
The factory wiring is unmolested on my truck, and while it may be 30 years old, it's been assembled and disassembled many times since then, the terminals being cleaned and greased if they needed it.
The factory headlight wiring is within the realm of "correct" in terms of load, I have a very hard time imagining voltage drop to the headlights is more than 2V, which would still put them at 12.5V.
I'll measure the headlights directly though, I'm curious to see what they are getting for voltage. I have yet to see a halogen, even on newer applications, come close to what the modern LEDs can do. But if I need to, I'll crank up the voltage to the Halogens and see what, if any, difference there is. I'm not going to say the LEDs are leaps and bounds better without making sure the halogens have as fair a shake as I can give it.
Since halogens also lose brightness over time, if I have time I'll use new halogens to compare, not what's been on there for years.
You are working with theory pretty well for the voltage drop. You will measure probably 12.5v at the headlight with the engine running.
The point is if you can give your headlights actual full system voltage with the engine running even stock halogens will be brighter.
Your wiring may be clean and in-molested. But the circuit is horrible since it makes a complete lap from the battery, through the junction block, headlight switch, dimmer and back through the junction block and then finally to the headlights.
It really don’t matter if it’s what you got or brand new wiring. The circuit is inefficient.
Put relays in and you will get only .2v drop to the lights meaning they will see 14.3v if the alternator is putting out 14.5v. Your low beams on relays will be brighter than the high beams without relays.
It’s pretty simple the more voltage you have at the light the brighter they will be. I proved it on my ‘75 when I made my own relay kit. On my ‘91 I used the LMC relay kit. Same result.
I just installed the LMC harness over the weekend. It was stupid easy. I will have to report back about the brightness with the halogens as I haven't had the truck out at night yet.
I had considered setting up the relays, but I don't really see it being worth the effort now. There isn't a halogen made for these trucks that is going to be better than a high quality LED IMO. Maybe I'm wrong, but my experiences thus far have shown me modern lighting is far superior. (If there is and remains significant voltage drop, I may revisit the relays).
There is still the unknown of the actual voltage seen at the bulb now though. I don't have an effective way of measuring the output of the headlights except as seen from the driver's seat unfortunately, although I have an idea.
If things fall into place, and voltage IS around the 12v mark, maybe I'll have time to do an OEM halogen setup, halogen with full system voltage, then LED, comparison. I'll see about converting to quad lows and testing those as well. Just not sure I have a second pair of 4656's to install.
So I hesitate to say this, but Pirate had a huge headlight thread. Lost of B4 and After shots. I seem to recall the same user trying many different systems, same truck same no moon street .
Also I have stock wiring, halogen sealed beams, drive frequently at night in dark desert, hardly ever even use the the brights. I do suffer from overly bright on coming headlights, and in side mirror (Toyota) that I have taken to wearing my old school amber shooting glasses at night.
I can do the legwork, but any chance you've got a link? I like seeing real world comparisons and what not.
The power is proportional to the square of the voltage. So 12.5 to 14.3 is 31% more power, even though it's just 14% more voltage. (Well, almost. A filament bulb increases in resistance the hotter it gets.)
I’m running Philips 4x6 led lights on my 87. They are plug and play and provide tons of light. I think it was around $200 for the low beam pair.
Thanks for that!
How long have you been running them?
Do they have high beams? Philips hasn't responded to my question, but there is no need for three pins if they only have low.
How long have you been running them?
Do they have high beams? Philips hasn't responded to my question, but there is no need for three pins if they only have low.
It will be interesting to see what's getting through that circuit to the lights. Easy to test, just wish I could now when the weather is decent.
I’m not disagreeing that modern lighting is better. But any lighting is better when you supply it with more voltage.
Pretty simple to measure the voltage at the light. Just do it with the truck running and check it against the alternator output.
I have no doubt you see at least 1.5v if not 2v difference.
I wasn’t kidding when I said the low beams with relays will be noticeably brighter than high beams without. You don’t need to be able to measure the lumens to see it.
With LED bulbs it only gets better. I didn’t try my LED lights without and with the relays. I just went right to the relays. They send light way down the road. If I can ever get around to actually aiming them they might be even better.
