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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

81 CC short bed conversion
Overview Gallery Discussion
Yep, the correct push rod makes a big difference. There is short and long push rods which can be swapped out or changed.

My issue is I was running a Wilwood master which had issues working with my short rod hydroboost since it went in 1/8" too far in the master. This caused my brakes to lock up after 20 minutes of driving. Only fix was a custom length rod or grind down the Wilwood spacer/plunger so I just grinded mine down on the receiving socket side. Fixed now.

Keep in mind you want a .020 gap between the hydroboost rod and the master.

imag040.jpg
 
Video on how to remove the rod if you ever need to swap them.

 
Shawn said:
Video on how to remove the rod if you ever need to swap them.

Click to expand...
I'm gonna have to swap that rod then I think. Makes me feel better than having a bolt in the master lol... Getting it out could prove fun though :thinking:.

Getting it out of my old master was as simple as smacking it on the concrete. Can't do that when it's still in the truck lol
 
I got mine out last out to measure the correct length I need for the Wilwood. It was not easy to get that star thing out but it finally came out. Tilting it is the key but I still had to use some needle nose pliers to help persuade it. Getting it back in was not easy either.
 
I finally got back to driving this. Tonight was the first time I did more than drive across town. Brought it to work, and even on the highway it drives better.

So much nicer now.

Definitely have to do some brake stuff.
The fronts feel uneven, so maybe bleed em there.
Rear passenger side grabs pretty easy, and drivers side feels like it ain't doing chit. Couldn't hardly feel all that before.
 
So one thing I have noticed that is contrary to what I was told/assumed....

Driving this with it's mechanical clutch is actually NICER than the hydraulic clutch in my dually. I'm actually glad I didnt swap it when I had the stuff.

Easier to push, hold and feel it out for engagement taking off, backing up, etc.
 
shady said:
So one thing I have noticed that is contrary to what I was told/assumed....

Driving this with it's mechanical clutch is actually NICER than the hydraulic clutch in my dually. I'm actually glad I didnt swap it when I had the stuff.

Easier to push, hold and feel it out for engagement taking off, backing up, etc.
Click to expand...
I never had a problem with the mechanical clutch and was very happy with it until I started rock crawling and the truck would twist up and I couldn't disengage.
The pivot is on the frame but the pedal is on the body and they twist independently.
 
Yeah, I'm waiting to have that issue. But so far I like it..
Eventually I want this to be auto. Which is why I didn't mess with swapping to hydraulic.... Almost wish the dually was mechanical now. But I want to go nv4500 in it, so it'll have to be hydraulic anyway.
 
Just doesn't look as fun with these tires on it. :notworthy:
Tried selling these tires/wheels for 3-4 months with not one bite.

So I'll try and sell the iroks and see if that goes any better.

Don't have the room for both sets.


And I did finally notice the clutch pedal moving during frame flex.

IMG_20201108_051534058~2.jpg
 
I also went super cheap frickin , stop blowing up my pant leg, mode on my floor holes.

I have a pair of new floor pans, but figured they'd be wasted on this body. For it's intended purpose anyway.

IMG_20201211_180804684.jpg
 
That's aluminum flashing and self tappers by the way lol
 
When I pulled this thing into the shop to do the floor holes, I noticed it seemed to be sagging more.

Pic taken as level as I could.
Notice rear drivers angling down....

Looks like another one of the original leaves let go. So I'm done with these. I'll replace em and do something different back there.

IMG_20201210_144815646.jpg

IMG_20201210_144750127~2.jpg
 
I'd like to do 64"s when I do the frame shortening.
I've already removed the saddle tank, so no issue there. All I have to do is move the front hanger forward and place the rear where I see fit for the spring length, correct?
And is there any lift from that or do I still need to factor that in?
 
I believe I've asked them questions before, but a LOT has happened since then and I can't remember where I asked them lol
 
I am not 100% positive but when I originally set up my blazer with 5" lift Tuff Country 64" springs I think it came out close to a 4" lift. But I am also running 6" ORD shackles in the factory tension style.
 
So lift is probably nearly a wash then... Ok.
Why I wondered was I thought about a shake flip at the same time if I need it.:waytogo:.

Thanks
 
I'm still hoping to do this this winter yet. Not sure where it will all fall in beings I'm doing an engine swap in the other crew. But I'm hoping that I can get that done n running by the end of Jan/Feb... Then bring this in and cut it in half lol.

Even if all I do is leave the current springs for now, and get it shortened I'll be happy.
 
That's kind of exactly what I was thinking lol.
 
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