CK5
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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

81 CC short bed conversion
That's why I threw the (enough) in there lol. If it's 10 or above I can warm it up nicely with the torpedo heater. Below that I have to run it constantly which sucks cause it's frickin LOUD. Lol.
 
I hear that. :D

When you're using a torpedo heater on cold days it's a tough call between being cold, or slowly losing your sanity from the noise of the heater!
 
I hear that. :D

When you're using a torpedo heater on cold days it's a tough call between being cold, or slowly losing your sanity from the noise of the heater!


And if you make it long enough you're usually rewarded from burning eyes
 
Haven't ever had the burning eyes, or smelled it even yet in my shop. When it first kicks on and when it runs out of diesel you get a stinking puff out of it. But it goes away fast.
 
After running the heater quite a while yesterday, I didn't smell anything.... Left for a bit and came back. And was immediately hit by the fumes lol... Guess I just never noticed due to being in it the whole time.
 
This thread will be staying with the Wyoming truck as started.

Since I'm about to start in on this for DD duty, I figured I'd ask a few questions.

I have a lighting issue that's odd. All of the lights on the left side of the truck are dim.
Every one of them. I figured a ground. But,
What could make ALL of the lights on one side dim the same amount? I'm sure there's got to be more than one ground in the left side circuit...?
Has anyone ever run into this?
 
I think your right. Ground. The lights have separate grounds and I had the exact problem in my other burb ( 86) and it was grounds
 
Each light has a separate ground?
Or each side. All lights on the passenger side are normal. But every single bulb including headlights, markers, etc on the driver's side are about half normal brightness. The turns even blink slow. :dunno:

I haven't delved into it much yet because I thought it would be the trail rig. But I kind of need to now lol
 
Put jumper cable from battery negative to driver side frame. Does it make a difference.
 
Right now the ground from batt is new, and goes to the pass frame rail. The spot was ground off and a second wire bolts there with it and goes to the block. I can't remember if I took a leader to the body or not though.

I'll try the jumper to DS frame rail.

And I'll have to climb around and see where it grounds underneath I guess.
 
Look for a ground wire that's right on the upper part of the core support. In my case the wire broke on one side.
 
Look for a ground wire that's right on the upper part of the core support. In my case the wire broke on one side.
I second checking grounds at the core support by the headlights. My K5 had weird turn signal issues and headlight stuff and it was a ground I had accidentally left off and it fell behind my battery when I wired on new headlight pigtails.
 
Decided I wanted it to run better when I tried turning it around. So I hit it with the timing light quick, advanced it a bit, and she runs pretty good actually :waytogo: .

Really gotta figure out the power steering though lol. It's a BIATCH to turn :doah:
 
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Had my mom, who doesn't handle smart phones film it lol. She didn't do bad.

It's in the long side of the shop and sitting ready to yank this engine out. Then drop the better one in.

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Lift lined up, hood off, and ready to get started :woot:

Donor axles in place.

Now it'll be a week before I even touch it again probably lol.

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I have the engine to the point where all I have to do is remove mounting bolts, the 6 to the trans and the motor mount bolts.
I'm changing the mounts along with the engine because I think these are bad and the others look good lol. This drivers side is the one that makes me think it's bad..... Looks a little tight there.

And..? What kind of factory manifolds had fittings all through them.. Those are some sort of plugs I think... Engine is a 73, manifolds have to be much newer I'd think. :dunno:.

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