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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

81 CC short bed conversion
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The clutch does disengage. And I also realized that I'm a moron and the adusjer is a part of the mechanical linkage and easily accessible lol :doah:. I didn't catch that even though I've had that piece out and in the vise once to clearance it from the header :haha:.


In other news, I got the hood on

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And found a radiator leak that the bee didn't have... So I poked a hole in it somewhere along the line.

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It backed out of the shop on its own power. Clutch BARELY disengages lol. Like not until it's pinned to the floor. But it's moveable at least. Now I just have to deal with the small things....

Adjust clutch, fix radiator, finish gauge cluster routing/mounting, etc.

Then there will be a lull on this thread while I do some things to my buddies Cordoba. Once we get it back on the road I'll do the lift and axles on this.

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Clutch adjusted, pipes from the exhaust collectors test fit. All good so far.

I'm going to add a couple pieces of straight to get me past the carrier bearing crossmember and leave it dump there for now.. once the lift is in I'll finish out the exhaust.
 
Ton accomplished today.

1.Trans and TC filled with Lucas 80-90w
2.Exhaust ran in it's semi permanent location. (Turndowns will be removed and pipes will be run out the back somewhere after the shortening)
3. And I DROVE it again lol. :woot:


Passenger side ended up needing some adjustment to get it right. I Hope it all clears the front Dshaft and stuff.
Radiator leak REALLY needs fixed lol.

It is also shooting the blues, and mildly sputtering on the driver's side bank for some reason....:dunno:
Didn't do this in the bee. Nothing but valve cover and oil pan gaskets were done to it while it was out. I'm kinda stumped there.:thinking:
Timing mark, and actual timing do not match lol. If I set it at 12* btdc at idle, it'll run, but not start. If I run it to somewhere below the timing tab, it runs n starts pretty good. I dunno...:dunno:


Few pics of today's progress,. And I have like 5 videos. But I need to combine them somehow ..
 
Hopefully I can get the radiator fixed soon. Then I'll take it to the local race shop to have the carb and timing adjusted.
 
Working on a different project at the moment, so this hasn't gotten much love lately....

But I may have figured out the blue smoke issue. The one thing I did change is the valve covers. So I'm wondering if the PVC is sucking oil. I'm going to unhook it and run it a while to seen if the blues go away. If not, I'm kinda lost. It didn't do it in the bee. :dunno:

I have acquired every part I can think of that I may need for the 4"lift. So hopefully after this other project is done, in the next few weeks, I'll get the radiator fixed, and start on the axles
 
:woot:. Finally started on truck stuff again..


Rolled the front axle out so I can get started assembling it.
I have to redo the kingpin bushings, so I figured now was the time.. I guess this may be why the bee started getting death wobble. I took the 4 inch steering arm lift block out too.

Also found out that I DON'T have all the parts yet like I thought... :doah:. I need the shorter studs for the steering arm. Which seems nearly impossible to find. Everything thing I've found is for high steer arms and says for a 1-1.5 thick arm .

Stock is like 3/4. :dunno:

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I seen those. I can't get past the fact that they are $100 a set, without nuts. Yet the super crazy strong ones for high steer are $45 a set WITH nuts lol.

They have to be available cheaper than that somewhere...
 
I've seen that, but what's it stand for ?
 
All wfo has is the same ones I've seen everywhere else.

If the high steer ones will work on stock arms that'd be fine... But I haven't found anything anywhere that says for certain that they will. :dunno:
 
I was worried about the shoulder part with no threads being too long.

If I bottomed the non threaded part out at the bottom. Then thread the tapered nuts down and the taper hits that non threaded portion before the arm is tight.... Then I've wasted the money and still need some. I'm actually pretty surprised there isn't just a stock replacement kit available.
 
Yeah did a bunch of searching for you and only came up with that one source. I found some from Dexter axle but they might be a tad bit short and they only had a little shoulder in the middle. I wonder if guys just say screw it and use 1/2"-20 all thread and make their own with no shoulder and use some 1/2"-20 lug nuts. The Dexter ones are part number 25-53. They are 2" long.
 
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