CK5
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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
81 CC short bed conversion
Tomorrow I'm putting insurance on it and starting the checkout drives.
I really don't mind one way or the other if the frame is bent or not. If it is I'll just change plans some and make this a full out play truck lol.
I'll see after jacking it up and measuring stuff
I really don't mind one way or the other if the frame is bent or not. If it is I'll just change plans some and make this a full out play truck lol.
I'll see after jacking it up and measuring stuff
Looks good with the big tires!
why show plate in 1 pic and cover up in other ?
and cheaper to shorten the shaft vs lengthen it .
and cheaper to shorten the shaft vs lengthen it .
I was wondering who'd catch that lol. It was because it was so late I needed the flash, but the reflective plate was messing up the pics lol. Kept making the bumper black look fake.
And yeah I was figuring shorten the one. The splines on the short one are messed up and don't slide also.
And yeah I was figuring shorten the one. The splines on the short one are messed up and don't slide also.
Power steering and brakes are both only so-so. I'm sure I have a lot of bleeding to do yet. But it just feels like the system doesn't have much pressure.
Is it possible for the pump to work, and just be weak?
Is it possible for the pump to work, and just be weak?
i have posted up a lot of times how to correctly blead a hydro boost system with p/s fluid fill up to get the air out .
Jacked it up, let it run, turned the wheels slowly lock to lock about 6-8 times, pushed brakes as far as they'd go slowly 6-8 times, back to the steering, repeat. About 20 times or so. Then made sure level was good. And the first time I held the brakes and tried to turn it blew power steering fluid out all over the underside of the hood... With the cap on. 
Didn't affect the crappy steering at all yet either
.
Oh well.
Something I noticed is it seems to have better steering if I'm not touching the brakes. And vice versa.
Didn't affect the crappy steering at all yet either
. Oh well. Something I noticed is it seems to have better steering if I'm not touching the brakes. And vice versa.
thats NOT the way to blead the system . and even more so on a hydro boost .
wheels up off ground engine OFF.
turn slow left to right keeping fluid at 3/4 mark . i have had to do this 20-30 times until fluid stayed clear and full . also dont just do full turn to turn stop mid turn and start . make the system push the air out by massaging it .
depress brakes 10 times to dump any stored hydro boost pressure
once fluid level stays firm fire engine for 10 sec and shut down
recheck and top off fluid as needed
redo left / right as needed
redo the 10 pump to deplete the stored boost fluid
fire up and if fluid dont drop and suck air then top off and cycle the wheel left right slow till no more air
pump brake a few times slow and let pedal come back up each time
foam in the system = problems thats why this long list to do slow and steady .
hydro boost test pump 10 times and hold to floor . fire up pedal should drop more for a sec and then push back up at you firm and feel normal . if it fails this test the unit has problems .
stock hydro boost has this problem its 1 or the other not both . and in the offroad world this shows up a lot more . there is a place or 2 to send your hydro boost unit out to and have a flow mod done to help a lot with the steering and brakes at 1 time work better . i always wanted to add a 2nd pump for a dedicated trail truck build to keep the 2 separate and try this .
wheels up off ground engine OFF.
turn slow left to right keeping fluid at 3/4 mark . i have had to do this 20-30 times until fluid stayed clear and full . also dont just do full turn to turn stop mid turn and start . make the system push the air out by massaging it .
depress brakes 10 times to dump any stored hydro boost pressure
once fluid level stays firm fire engine for 10 sec and shut down
recheck and top off fluid as needed
redo left / right as needed
redo the 10 pump to deplete the stored boost fluid
fire up and if fluid dont drop and suck air then top off and cycle the wheel left right slow till no more air
pump brake a few times slow and let pedal come back up each time
foam in the system = problems thats why this long list to do slow and steady .
hydro boost test pump 10 times and hold to floor . fire up pedal should drop more for a sec and then push back up at you firm and feel normal . if it fails this test the unit has problems .
stock hydro boost has this problem its 1 or the other not both . and in the offroad world this shows up a lot more . there is a place or 2 to send your hydro boost unit out to and have a flow mod done to help a lot with the steering and brakes at 1 time work better . i always wanted to add a 2nd pump for a dedicated trail truck build to keep the 2 separate and try this .
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My other truck doesn't have any issue with turning while on the brakes.. both work flawlessly at all times. I hope I can make this one do so also. I'm getting tempted to just change out the booster and pump since I have a set laying around that I know for a fact work good.
Figured if I do it now THEN bleed everything I should be set for sure.
I've been driving it around town, and to work. So far it drives great down the highway. In town sucks Because of the steering n crap still.
It rides like a horse drawn buggy
. Kind of figured it would. So I'm going to take the bottom leaf out, all the way around. Then install zero rates on the driver's side front and back to level it.
That's not the correct way to fix it, but it's what's going to work for now.
It also needs to be re adjusted in the timing department...
It starts sorta rough, like the engine has too much compression to turn easy, except it didn't do that in the bee.
But once running it idles fine, gets it like a drag truck when I get in it, etc.
The odd part is the timing mark is WAY off. If I turn the dizzy enough to get it even close to the tab it runs like ass. Further work is needed lol. I'll probably take it to the race shop and have them set that, and adjust/jet the carb for this engine if needed.
The carb was swapped by the PO right before I bought it, and even at 1½ turns out it runs rich I think. Smells like gas.
I'll let them figure that out.
It SOUNDS amazing . I do need the pipes to dump at the bumper though. It's too loud for cruising with the family.
Figured if I do it now THEN bleed everything I should be set for sure.
I've been driving it around town, and to work. So far it drives great down the highway. In town sucks Because of the steering n crap still.
It rides like a horse drawn buggy
. Kind of figured it would. So I'm going to take the bottom leaf out, all the way around. Then install zero rates on the driver's side front and back to level it. That's not the correct way to fix it, but it's what's going to work for now.
It also needs to be re adjusted in the timing department...
It starts sorta rough, like the engine has too much compression to turn easy, except it didn't do that in the bee.
But once running it idles fine, gets it like a drag truck when I get in it, etc.
The odd part is the timing mark is WAY off. If I turn the dizzy enough to get it even close to the tab it runs like ass. Further work is needed lol. I'll probably take it to the race shop and have them set that, and adjust/jet the carb for this engine if needed.
The carb was swapped by the PO right before I bought it, and even at 1½ turns out it runs rich I think. Smells like gas.
I'll let them figure that out.
It SOUNDS amazing
. I do need the pipes to dump at the bumper though. It's too loud for cruising with the family.I bled the system for 3 straight hrs last night. Best method of the 4 or 5 I tried was pumping the brakes slowly while turning the wheels back and forth. I did each one solo in there now and then too. We were still getting just as much air out when we quit, as we were when we started. . WAY more than 20-30 times lol. I'm frickin tired today. When I got to the point where I just had to quit, I started it up and backed it out... So far all of my air removal hasn't changed chit lol . Not even a little bit.
Oddest part is that after all the air came out the level ended HIGHER than I started with ...? Thought that was sort of weird.
I'm going to let my legs heal a few days and go at it again later this week.
. WAY more than 20-30 times lol. I'm frickin tired today. When I got to the point where I just had to quit, I started it up and backed it out... So far all of my air removal hasn't changed chit lol . Not even a little bit. Oddest part is that after all the air came out the level ended HIGHER than I started with ...? Thought that was sort of weird.
I'm going to let my legs heal a few days and go at it again later this week.
I remember I did an agr pump conversion on a super duty with hydroboost one time and converted it to a Saginaw style Chevy pump. I had a hell of a time getting it to bleed and called agr and they said to jack it up run engine and steer slowly back and forth stop to stop. ABSOLUTELY do not touch the brake pedal. Shut it off. Pump the pedal to relieve pressure on the accumulator for the hydroboost. Start it back up and repeat until fluid level stabilized. He said if you touch the pedal while engine is running it will introduce air into the accumulator and then you have to start all over. I'm no expert just sharing my experience with it.
Haven't driven this much lately. But the few times I moved it around the shop drive, the steering did work better.
I need to pull the dizzy and re drop it at TDC. I'm pretty sure I got it wrong last time because I was being stupid and making assumptions.
I turned the engine until I had compression on 1 and then just lined up the timing mark with zero on the tab. I didn't actually put something in and feel the Piston moving. I thought it was dumb at the time but still did it.
The timing mark is a long ways from the tab when running now. Plus it starts hard.
If a set it to where it starts easy I get a LOT of valve train noise under a mild load. If I set it so that goes away it starts super hard. Like the spark is fighting the crank type thing. Starter barely turns the engine then.
So dizzy is coming out, and TDC is getting set the right way. While I'm at it all and have the plugs out to turn it over easy, im going to check all the rockers and make sure it's all adjusted correctly just because.
I've been working 12hr rotating shifts 6 days a week for a while and will be for most of the rest of the year. So it'll be slow lol.
The shop heater project is also in swing now and it comes first.
I need to pull the dizzy and re drop it at TDC. I'm pretty sure I got it wrong last time because I was being stupid and making assumptions.
I turned the engine until I had compression on 1 and then just lined up the timing mark with zero on the tab. I didn't actually put something in and feel the Piston moving. I thought it was dumb at the time but still did it
.The timing mark is a long ways from the tab when running now. Plus it starts hard.
If a set it to where it starts easy I get a LOT of valve train noise under a mild load. If I set it so that goes away it starts super hard. Like the spark is fighting the crank type thing. Starter barely turns the engine then.
So dizzy is coming out, and TDC is getting set the right way. While I'm at it all and have the plugs out to turn it over easy, im going to check all the rockers and make sure it's all adjusted correctly just because.
I've been working 12hr rotating shifts 6 days a week for a while and will be for most of the rest of the year. So it'll be slow lol.
The shop heater project is also in swing now and it comes first.
FROM AGR:
How to Bleed
Step 1
Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the
power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can
cause metal to metal contact and damage.
Step 2
Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.
Step 3
Turn steering wheel fully to the left.
Step 4
Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.
Step 5
Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped,
no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the
reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system.
— Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir.
Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for
leak checks.
— On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess
of 40 times.
Step 6
Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
— If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
Step 7
Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)
— Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in
the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
— If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to
accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
Step 8
Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.
Step 9
If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Step 11.
Hydro Boost Systems Only
WARNING
These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be followed. Failure to follow these procedures can
cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the
steering wheel while performing these procedures.
— Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake
pedal.
— Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.
— Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off.
— Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal.
— Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir.
— If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled.
— Repeat above steps.
Step 10
Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level.
Step 11
Reinstall reservoir cap.
Step 12
Return wheels to center.
Step 13
Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2.
Step 14
Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions.
Step 15
Do not hold steering wheel against the stops.
Step 16
Verify the following conditions:
— Smooth power assist
— Noiseless operation
— Proper fluid level
— No system leaks
— Proper fluid condition
— No bubbles, foam, or discoloration
Step 17
If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete.
Step 18
If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below.
Special Conditions
If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system.
• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If
this occurs, there is trapped air in the system.
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a
bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose.
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).
TIP
It is recommended on Ford Super Dutys with Hydro Boost Brakes, that the original pressure line
from the Hydro Boost Unit to the pump be replaced with the updated line. Also that the Ball Joints
be checked for lubrication, stiffness or wear.
If you have excessive metal in the fluid, the hydro boost will not bleed, is noisy or the brake pedal
feels funny, call AGR Technical Support.
NOTE
If you need to replace your hydro boost brake unit, AGR recommends replacing with a ported
unit and not an OEM unit.
How to Bleed
Step 1
Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the
power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can
cause metal to metal contact and damage.
Step 2
Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.
Step 3
Turn steering wheel fully to the left.
Step 4
Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.
Step 5
Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped,
no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the
reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system.
— Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir.
Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for
leak checks.
— On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess
of 40 times.
Step 6
Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
— If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
Step 7
Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)
— Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in
the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
— If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to
accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
Step 8
Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.
Step 9
If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Step 11.
Hydro Boost Systems Only
WARNING
These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be followed. Failure to follow these procedures can
cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the
steering wheel while performing these procedures.
— Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake
pedal.
— Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.
— Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off.
— Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal.
— Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir.
— If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled.
— Repeat above steps.
Step 10
Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level.
Step 11
Reinstall reservoir cap.
Step 12
Return wheels to center.
Step 13
Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2.
Step 14
Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions.
Step 15
Do not hold steering wheel against the stops.
Step 16
Verify the following conditions:
— Smooth power assist
— Noiseless operation
— Proper fluid level
— No system leaks
— Proper fluid condition
— No bubbles, foam, or discoloration
Step 17
If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete.
Step 18
If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below.
Special Conditions
If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system.
• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If
this occurs, there is trapped air in the system.
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a
bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose.
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).
TIP
It is recommended on Ford Super Dutys with Hydro Boost Brakes, that the original pressure line
from the Hydro Boost Unit to the pump be replaced with the updated line. Also that the Ball Joints
be checked for lubrication, stiffness or wear.
If you have excessive metal in the fluid, the hydro boost will not bleed, is noisy or the brake pedal
feels funny, call AGR Technical Support.
NOTE
If you need to replace your hydro boost brake unit, AGR recommends replacing with a ported
unit and not an OEM unit.
