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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

81 CC short bed conversion
Overview Gallery Discussion
You have to grind the driveshaft for clearance, especially at the CV. I'd disconnect the end at the axle, and rotate it and find the spot where it binds at the least angle, and then remove material there. Do it evenly on both sides with a die grinder.

Also, keep in mind when you move the pinion up, the driveshaft moves up to, so you don't need to go quite as far as you think. For example, if the driveshaft between the joints is 2 times as long as the pinion is from the axle pivot point, then the driveshaft will move half the angle you moved the pinion. If its 3 times as long, it will move 1/3. Measure your pinion length, and your driveshaft, and do the math to get closer.
 
The Tom woods looked like it was already clearanced pretty good. It had a lot more angle available than my stocker.

I need to do some more searching on here to see if it's right or wrong. But according to the Tom woods site a CV shaft should have the pinion end in a straight line with the shaft. (See pic)

Also I may have already altered the caster angle in the other direction by moving the axle forward. The spring isn't exactly flat where the axle mounts. So I should get it level and measure my caster as is. And see if a few degrees would be ok or not. I may be able to add some and still be in acceptable limits.

As long as nothing gets in my way, I should be able to have it back in the shop Friday night.

Screenshot_20200513-083453~2.png
 
shady said:
The Tom woods looked like it was already clearanced pretty good. It had a lot more angle available than my stocker.

I need to do some more searching on here to see if it's right or wrong. But according to the Tom woods site a CV shaft should have the pinion end in a straight line with the shaft. (See pic)

Also I may have already altered the caster angle in the other direction by moving the axle forward. The spring isn't exactly flat where the axle mounts. So I should get it level and measure my caster as is. And see if a few degrees would be ok or not. I may be able to add some and still be in acceptable limits.

As long as nothing gets in my way, I should be able to have it back in the shop Friday night.

View attachment 339546
Click to expand...
This is exactly where I'm at. I moved mine forward 1.5" currently so it has tipped my pinion down. It was fine with it in the stock location with the 4" springs. I just haven't had time to check actual caster angle but I got some 3 degree shims anyway since I need to put the correct u-bolts on. I might bump mine back to 1" forward and pull a 3/8" "shim" out that I put in with the 3/8" axle relocation plate. I'm still fine tuning to get it how I want.
 
shady said:
The Tom woods looked like it was already clearanced pretty good. It had a lot more angle available than my stocker.

I need to do some more searching on here to see if it's right or wrong. But according to the Tom woods site a CV shaft should have the pinion end in a straight line with the shaft. (See pic)

Also I may have already altered the caster angle in the other direction by moving the axle forward. The spring isn't exactly flat where the axle mounts. So I should get it level and measure my caster as is. And see if a few degrees would be ok or not. I may be able to add some and still be in acceptable limits.

As long as nothing gets in my way, I should be able to have it back in the shop Friday night.

View attachment 339546
Click to expand...
That's why Cadillac had at one point a cv on both ends of the driveshaft.
They claimed it's to a keep a smooth drive, duh!!!
 
Well if I can find the right stuff in town today, I'll have this running again by tonight.
It seems that submersible fuel line is hard to find though :doah:

And I need to adapt from these to ...... Something :dunno: lol.
Think I have the direction in mind. Some guys showed me the AN direction and I may do that.
Really for now o just need to get from these O-ring fittings to 3/8 hose on the big one, and blocked off on smaller one.

IMG_20200514_165012950.jpg
 
The way I have it set to put my tank in is backwards from factory... That sort of puts the baffle the wrong way, but it'll have to do :dunno:. I'm getting too frickin old to remember that I have to fill it on the wrong side of the truck. So I'm pointing the filler neck to the drivers side.

For now it'll still be drivers side but in the bed. Which still sucks but not as bad. Pics to come later
 
Hole in floor for temporary filler neck.

IMG_20200515_212052153.jpg
 
I also took the overload and lower leaf off both rear spring packs. Found that one of the overloads I used was cracked. And the rear won't be loaded up like a regular working truck, so I wasn't worried about payload.

It did lower the rear about 1½" . Kind of what I was hoping.
Now the front will get the bottom 2 taken out too. I'm hoping that will ride and flex better.
Gonna have to address my bump stops though.
 
I got it running.
Took 2 sending units and made one.
I didn't modify the FI one at all so that I can put an in tank pump in later.

I need to make a couple captured nut plates for 2 of the bed bolts. Otherwise the bed would have been back on today.

IMG_20200516_095923779_HDR.jpg

IMG_20200516_125731142_HDR.jpg
 
Quick question....

If I don't have a charcoal can, where does the tank vent go? Just a piece of hose hanging open under the truck doesn't seem right lol.
 
I looked it up and I guess they do just vent some where... I may either put a rollover vent up between the cab and box, or put a charcoal canister in. Hell I may have a canister...:dunno: .I do know there was no line from the tank to it though lol.
 
shady said:
Quick question....

If I don't have a charcoal can, where does the tank vent go? Just a piece of hose hanging open under the truck doesn't seem right lol.
Click to expand...
good way to suck water under there . still run it up front up to the top point some place . and dont plug it off cause if you have a NON vented cap you will slowly stop flowing fuel . . . :eek::doah:

good temp fix on the sender :waytogo:

and maybe when short bed goes on make a filler tube up the frame rail to the oem fuel door hole ? ? ?
 
I was gonna move the filler door back behind the tire.
 
Lol. That's actually in my cart on amazon.

Exact same one, but they call it a 'Holley' brand.

Screenshot_20200516-193953~2.png
 
The same one goes for 15 bucks from tanks, inc. they are in Iowa, just drive over and pick one up.
 
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