Not a fuel supply issue with a filter if it's driving fine above idle. You should be looking for a vacuum leak.
CK5
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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
81 CC short bed conversion
I'm going to check the bolts on the carb, and do the starting fluid along the intake gaskets thing.
I'm skeptical about my temp gauge and water flow.
It stays at 180-190, but after driving the 15 blocks to the shop I could barely touch the carb. Put my palm on th valve cover to lean over and about fell on my face because I yanked my hand back so fast.
I'm skeptical about my temp gauge and water flow.
It stays at 180-190, but after driving the 15 blocks to the shop I could barely touch the carb. Put my palm on th valve cover to lean over and about fell on my face because I yanked my hand back so fast.
It just did it to me cold too. What's odd is it's only running odd when I'm entirely off the pedal. If I rest my foot on it even, it'll stay running.
I'm almost wondering if one of my idle jets got plugged up.
I'm almost wondering if one of my idle jets got plugged up.
I'm not familiar with this specific carb, but on other carbs there's a rod in there. Maybe the spring is broken or wore out.
Or the jet is plugged up causing fuel to back up? Or something in the circuit is plugged up.
Well... It seems to run decent at the moment.
Starts awesome cold. Very rarely does the dieing thing now for some reason. And when warm it sorta takes a bit to start it. Gotta give it more gas than when cold.
I did find that the 2 intake bolts under the carb on the driver's side were loose enough to get most of a turn... I've never had the intake off so didn't think to ever check em.
And the carb, which I have had off, had the rear driver's side but a little looser than the others.
So after changing the master cylinder, I can drive it again.
BUT.
I'm not sure if I've put it in here or not, it has a steering issue that's getting worse.
It has always driven fine. But a while back it started shaking like death wobble but only at low speed. About 10-20 mph.
I thought it was my bias plys since it sat for weeks at a time.
Sold those, and it stopped. But had a real faint pulsation in the steering wheel I started feeling.
When I go around a corner, even a sweeping one, every now and then it kind of feels like it wants to go straight for a second, then catches and turns like it should.
I e checked for play every where I can. And have found none.
With the springs in there, would I even notice play in the king pins? Upper or lower? It has new bushings and springs. But I've never seen the lowers or their bearings.
Jacked up, wiggling the wheel like you would for ball joints I get nothing.
I have searched the frame from as close as I can get near the steering box and can not find a crack there.
I also removed the rag joint and I stalled an xj shaft. All tight and solid from the steering gear up. Turning the steering shaft at all gets an immediate response at the pitman shaft. So no real play in the box.
I'm stumped. And being steering it bothers me enough to not drive it alot.
When I'm going down the road it real slowly pulls one way, then kind of releases and centers, then does it again, and again, and so on. But it's slow.
Puuulllll, back, puuulllll, back continuously. And not so much that I have to fight or correct it. Just enough to feel it sort of pulsing side to side.
Starts awesome cold. Very rarely does the dieing thing now for some reason. And when warm it sorta takes a bit to start it. Gotta give it more gas than when cold.
I did find that the 2 intake bolts under the carb on the driver's side were loose enough to get most of a turn... I've never had the intake off so didn't think to ever check em.
And the carb, which I have had off, had the rear driver's side but a little looser than the others.
So after changing the master cylinder, I can drive it again.
BUT.
I'm not sure if I've put it in here or not, it has a steering issue that's getting worse.
It has always driven fine. But a while back it started shaking like death wobble but only at low speed. About 10-20 mph.
I thought it was my bias plys since it sat for weeks at a time.
Sold those, and it stopped. But had a real faint pulsation in the steering wheel I started feeling.
When I go around a corner, even a sweeping one, every now and then it kind of feels like it wants to go straight for a second, then catches and turns like it should.
I e checked for play every where I can. And have found none.
With the springs in there, would I even notice play in the king pins? Upper or lower? It has new bushings and springs. But I've never seen the lowers or their bearings.
Jacked up, wiggling the wheel like you would for ball joints I get nothing.
I have searched the frame from as close as I can get near the steering box and can not find a crack there.
I also removed the rag joint and I stalled an xj shaft. All tight and solid from the steering gear up. Turning the steering shaft at all gets an immediate response at the pitman shaft. So no real play in the box.
I'm stumped. And being steering it bothers me enough to not drive it alot.
When I'm going down the road it real slowly pulls one way, then kind of releases and centers, then does it again, and again, and so on. But it's slow.
Puuulllll, back, puuulllll, back continuously. And not so much that I have to fight or correct it. Just enough to feel it sort of pulsing side to side.
I had a similar issue with the steering on my old mega cab. Box was bad.
That pulsating is a bad axle ujoint
Do you have the hubs locked?
Hubs unlocked, and in 2 wd.
I kind of wondered about the u joints at the knuckle. But figured it wouldn't affect anything with them unlocked... I could see how maybe it would though. That stuff does turn some.
I kind of wondered about the u joints at the knuckle. But figured it wouldn't affect anything with them unlocked... I could see how maybe it would though. That stuff does turn some.
I put it up on stands, locked the hubs, and turned the tire to 3/4 right.
Drivers wheel won't spin
Spins fine when the wheels are straight.
The spicer life series greaseable is $80.
Is the non greaseable solid, or just the same joint not drilled and tapped for a grease zerk?
It's $20 cheaper and I'd rather have the strongest option.
I've always heard non greasable is stronger due to not having a passage for grease. Front axle u-joints that don't spin all the time will last just fine with the lube for life ones.
I like non-greaseable because I know I'm lazy and will put off greasing them.
Funny thing, on most of my newer super duties at work the front axle u-joints are the only thing on the whole truck that is greaseable.
Told you.I put it up on stands, locked the hubs, and turned the tire to 3/4 right.
Drivers wheel won't spin
Spins fine when the wheels are straight.
The spicer life series greaseable is $80.
Is the non greaseable solid, or just the same joint not drilled and tapped for a grease zerk?
It's $20 cheaper and I'd rather have the strongest option.
Been there
Even unlocked there's drag on the shaft and it binds
Took it out and drove around tonight.
Frickin smoooth now.
Whatever the dieing thing was it seems to be better.
I have a little less power on the instant kick, but it's not dieing randomly.
Only thing I did engine wise was tighten them two bolts under the carb, and the one carb nut.
But it ran odd for a while after that.
Maybe it just needed a couple heat cycles to re seal the intake....
Either way, it's going to work tomorrow for the first time in a while.
Frickin smoooth now
.Whatever the dieing thing was it seems to be better.
I have a little less power on the instant kick, but it's not dieing randomly.
Only thing I did engine wise was tighten them two bolts under the carb, and the one carb nut.
But it ran odd for a while after that.
Maybe it just needed a couple heat cycles to re seal the intake....
Either way, it's going to work tomorrow for the first time in a while.
