CK5
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Show me how you replaced your factory rockers with square tubing!

Hmm, looks good!

How are you guys dealing with the floor seal? My floor no longer has the little drop that the factory outer rockers were spot welded to, so there would be a large open space between where the floor would be supported by a piece of 1" square steel and where the remaining outer rocker's seal lip is.
 
Hmm, looks good!

How are you guys dealing with the floor seal? My floor no longer has the little drop that the factory outer rockers were spot welded to, so there would be a large open space between where the floor would be supported by a piece of 1" square steel and where the remaining outer rocker's seal lip is.

Yeah I have wondered this too. Doesnt eliminating the entire rocker cause there to be no more weather stripping channel for the bottom of the door? I could see this being a major problem with water crossings...
 
looks to be that the rocker box has been left on here on this one.did you just take and cut out the inner rocker area for this?and fill it with the 2x4?my rocker boxes are still good.the rockers are not great,but i want to do something like this eventually.

Yes. On my 75 I left the boxes on. BUT, When I redid the floor I used 1/8" steel. By doing this It stiffened everything up and gave me some good material to burn into when attaching the 2x4.
 
Yeah I have wondered this too. Doesnt eliminating the entire rocker cause there to be no more weather stripping channel for the bottom of the door? I could see this being a major problem with water crossings...


not necessarily, if the jamb and floor are good, you can just mount the slider under the lip....

like mine is here...

frontsupport018.jpg




some guys don't leave that sheetmetal in and just have the 2 x 4... you could still have the vertical lip from the inside rocker the weatherstripping...

in my case, where the floor was hammered, I am going to eliminate the weatherstrip lip, and have the floor run straight across.. much easier to rinse the truck out... like this...

doorlevel.jpg



and yes, I'll have to cut the bottom section of weatherstripping out.. but i'm gonna supplement it with a glued up piece at the bottom of the door.. should work ok...
 
i figured it would be better to lose that lip and weatherstriping.any water would then just run back out the door.and if you are that deep,the weatherstrip doesnt seem like it would hold back that much water as to eliminate it coming in either.then cleaning would be much easier as the water would run out there also and not collect in the floorboards.
 
If you still want something there, you could take a piece of 1/4 or so about 4" wide and a little longer than the door is wide, then turn it vertical and run it across the bottom of the door opening and weld in place at the ends and along the lower edge at the floor. Ive seen some pics of this one here where people have replaced the rockers and didn't plan to run doors and wanted a decent lip to keep things from rolling out. You then can just make a hole in each side of the floor and use a plug like in jeeps to let it drain.
 
Hmm, I like the idea of extending the floor pan out to the lip on the outer rocker panel. Suppose all I'd really need is a couple strips of sheet metal to weld in and make the floor flat. Being supported by the 1" square tubing, it should stay put. A small bit of metal filler and box liner on the floor would make it look pretty much factory too.

Well, I'm going to place my order for some 2x4" rectangular steel, and 1" square steel, then have at it! I'll post some pictures up when I've got it all pulled together!
 
Nothing much different than any of the others, except mine are positioned higher up than some of the others.

DSCF1117_Small_.JPG


Doors still work but had to cut about 4" out of the bottom of them to clear the rockers (about as far as you can go and still let the windows roll all the way down and not get into the regulator). The 3x3 tube actually has about a 1/2" lip above the floors, and the floors are now 1/8" plate.
 
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