CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Spindle Headache and Rotor Question

if the lugnuts/wheels are tight, I'm not sure how you'd get any play w/ the rotor. Lugnuts should draw it all tight?

unless you're bottoming the lugnuts out
 
I can't figure it out either. Maybe the manufacturer cheaped out on thickness? I thought when I snugged up the lug nuts it would sock up tight. I got some grade 8 washers on the way home that should fit the studs and the hollows in the rotor. The rotor I pulled off was tight. Studs didn't look chewed up. I'm thinking the knurl hits the hub before the rotor face flushes up against it.

The only reason I thought it might be ok is because on my daughters car the rotor just slides onto the studs and the caliper locks it tight. I figured if that was OK mine would be too.
 
Can't help with the wiggle, but I'm really glad you got it home.
 
The factory had "swedged" the lug studs against the rotor/hub assembly,they put just a slight shoulder on the studs, to hold the rotor tight to the hub..--this is "lost" once the studs get pounded out and replaced when a new rotor is installed--but I've not had any issues with looseness after tightening the lug nuts to the right specs..if a stud was not fully seated in the hub it can seat after you have driven it awhile,but the lug nut would be loose if that were the case..
 
The lugs did just barely turn some more the other day but still got that clunk at low speeds. It stops when I hit the brakes. Gonna get new studs and see if that helps.
 
Sure its not a caliper moving around,or a loose shock bushing ,or a hogged out frame hole for the upper shock mount ?--the frames like to crack there also...could be leaf spring bushings or center bolt sheared or loose too...
 
Top Bottom