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Spindle nut torque warning!

This is what happens when the pin is not sitting in one of the holes. A little grease helps keep things seated while you run the outer nut, but it's always worth a visual inspection before driving it tight. I've also heard of it happening when a wheel bearing locks up, but never seen it.

How did things go on the other side of the truck?

On a related note, I have have gotten the bearing preload right before with one of those pins broken. It's just tricky. The inner nut can be drilled and have a new pin inserted if you don't have time to wait for a replacement. As for the spindle - has anybody ever repaired the threads with a large die?

I don't know if they make a die with the correct threads to fix the threads on a spindle--if there is such a thing I bet it isn't cheap,a used spindle would probably cost less and be better off..

I've had a spindle with mashed threads repaired at a auto parts store with a machine shop (now out of business :( ),they had a tool that was more like a lathe bit on a tool,similar to a C clamp, that you put at the end of the threads and worked your way back to the end of the spindle,then you'd tighten the bit against the threads more and repeat until they were restored..

I have seen guys use a thread restoring file to fix boogered up spindle threads too, with success..

Once in a pinch I have seen a guy use an old spindle nut he cut with a hacksaw blade and opened it up slightly to repair the threads to,he got it started on the first few threads and was able to run it down all the way,then he put a large vise grip on the nut to squeeze it tighter and kept running it up and down until the threads were fixed..

The biggest issue I have taking a spindle off is getting it out ,the bolts and tight fit around the knuckle often rusts up solid here and it takes a lot of soaking with penetrating oil and careful application of a large hammer to shock it free enough to get a wedge behind it at opposite sides and work it off without mashing the threads--I use a block of very hard wood (Ironwood) on the spindle between the threads and the inner wheel bearing surface and whack it hard with a 5 lb hammer until the spindle comes free...it has taken a half hour more than once!..
 
I had a friend who's 1/2 ton locked up a wheel bearing and spun it on the spindle to the point that the hub was riding against the spindle nut and ground them flat.
The wheel almost fell off.

He was broke down on the side of the road and I was up to the task... I torched everything off while he ran for bearings,a hub and a spindle nut kit... I used a hacksaw blade and file to dress up the threads and filed the bearing area on the spindle.
We drove a speedi-sleeve on to the bearing portion of the spindle...this was only supposed to be a temporary fix to get him home.,.3 years later he sold the truck, with the same temporary repair still in place..
 
I've had the outer race on the inner wheel bearing spin in the hub on 2 trucks,making it a sloppy fit,it wouldn't "press fit" any more,you could push the race in with your fingers and it would wobble a tiny bit once it was fully seated..

As a "temporary" fix,I took an old feeler gauge ,I think I used the .005 one,and wrapped it around the bearing race ,then pounded it in with a bearing driver & a hammer,and it fit very snug--I drove both those trucks several years without another problem,after putting new bearings in the hubs and a new spindle bearing..
 
Someone on another thread mentioned something about the bearings not having any pre-load at all on them. I agree. One side of my truck I did to 35# and backed off about a quarter turn. Rotor spun free with NO pre-load or drag. After a ride it was luke warm to touch at the hub, all good. The other side had a bit of drag on the rotor. It spun freely, but still a little drag. After the test drive the side with the slight drag was very hot too the touch, too hot. So lesson learned, the bearings like to be set to spin free with absolutely no drag. Yes, I did pre-load to 50# first to set the bearings. Just my 2 cents FWIW
 
Here is a stupid question but I can't be the only one..


How the heck do you torque the outter nut without smashing your face into the fender or ground? My damn socket slips off...
 
Push hard on the socket. Mine has never slipped off. Maybe it depends on the style of socket.
 
Funny how this topic popped up right around the time I'm getting ready to swap out some axle Shafts. Never messed with a front axle before so this is making me pay more attention. I'm going from stock shafts to 35 spline. I won't have to replace the spindle nut or anything else that's not worn out right?
 
Funny how this topic popped up right around the time I'm getting ready to swap out some axle Shafts. Never messed with a front axle before so this is making me pay more attention. I'm going from stock shafts to 35 spline. I won't have to replace the spindle nut or anything else that's not worn out right?
Not sure about changing the nuts or not but if your re using the spindle I wouldn’t think so. You will however have to set and re-torque those nuts though
 
Funny how this topic popped up right around the time I'm getting ready to swap out some axle Shafts. Never messed with a front axle before so this is making me pay more attention. I'm going from stock shafts to 35 spline. I won't have to replace the spindle nut or anything else that's not worn out right?
There are some guys here that went to 35s. Not sure if the spindle needs changed

@obijuank5 @Fastereddie
 
I only have a 3/8 drive torque wrench. Any suggestions on a lasting/trust worthy 1/2 drive that won't break the blazer fund?
 
I only have a 3/8 drive torque wrench. Any suggestions on a lasting/trust worthy 1/2 drive that won't break the blazer fund?
Yeah, use one at the parts store as a loaner

Save up for a good one when you have the cash. I use to recommend Craftsman. I need a new one too so keep me in the loop
 
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