It only hurts when I keep hitting it with the hammer really...
CK5
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Squarebody CHOP Shop
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
I may have mumbled something a time or two.
What's the pricing difference between metal roofing and asphalt shingles? How hard is that metal to deal with once it's up if you need to make a repair, you cant just walk on it w/o bending it right?
Since this roof doesn't have plywood, I would have spent $1500 to sheet the roof before spending another $750 on the cheapest 3 tab asphalt shingles. This would give me 10-15 year service life.
The steel roof came in just over $2000 for sheeting, ridge cap, and trim for the end of the roof all color matched to the other two pole buildings in the property. Steel doesn't need a solid plywood surface under it, I actually could have saved money and spaced the boards apart farther. Steel will give me 30+ year service life and won't grow moss because it slides off.
I actually have a stash of plywood that would make up half of what I would need if I went with asphalt shingles. I just prefer the longer life of steel roofs.
The trick to walking on a steel roof is to walk on the screw heads. They are placed where you have support structure under the sheeting. Then you will not damaged it.
Steel arrived on Monday afternoon, I picked it up Tuesday afternoon. Wednesday afternoon, I started installing it. Here is where I had to stop Wednesday evening. All but one end cap and one last piece of ridge cap installed. I would have finished last night had the dew not started forming on the roof making it very hard to work safely.
Also gives you traction. Metal roofing can be slick.
Never walk on a metal roof after the dew point sets or when it is wet...
A dusty metal roof sucks also. I had to be on mine in Colorado a few times. Slicker than snot on a Teflon pan.
Lift down... well more like up. Blew a line right at the top of travel with a truck on it. Luckily a friend down the road has everything to build new hoses. The hose worked in behind the pulley and cables. I'll need to be sure it is routed better once it is fixed.
Looks like it had a cable running against it. Did the locks do their job?
Yes, it was lifting uneven but made it on both locks before it blew out.
The hose got in behind the cable because the extra slack worked down into the column or i missed it when I set it up.
Safety worked it should. Good thing.
I've realized there is no way to pull the blown hose on the pump side because it is behind the lift trolley. I'm going to need to cut back the hose about 12" and install a new fitting. Then build a short hose to make the connection again.
A friend brought over his hydraulic fitting crimp tool, a spool of 3/8" hose, and a bolt bin full of fittings so I could repair the lift.
Problem is my little tractor can barely lift it on the pallet plus it is very top heavy and ready to tip over (my friend said it nearly killed him once) so out came the chop saw and scrap metal. The 3x2 tubing was left over from making a set of rock sliders years ago, a couple pieces were even used as make shift pallet forks until I bought nice ones. I needed to gain about 12" in height to get a new fitting installed on the old hose and still fit under the truck on the lift.
I also had some 6" tall casters laying around from a friend attempting to build a rotisserie but changing his mind. So the tool is now portable around the shop and stable.
A friend brought over his hydraulic fitting crimp tool, a spool of 3/8" hose, and a bolt bin full of fittings so I could repair the lift.
Problem is my little tractor can barely lift it on the pallet plus it is very top heavy and ready to tip over (my friend said it nearly killed him once) so out came the chop saw and scrap metal. The 3x2 tubing was left over from making a set of rock sliders years ago, a couple pieces were even used as make shift pallet forks until I bought nice ones. I needed to gain about 12" in height to get a new fitting installed on the old hose and still fit under the truck on the lift.
I also had some 6" tall casters laying around from a friend attempting to build a rotisserie but changing his mind. So the tool is now portable around the shop and stable.
That hose crimper is a beast. We had one at the shop here and I just had to ship it back. I think that alone weighed about 550 lbs.
Don't mix and match hose and fittings. You gotta use the correct fittings for the hose. Same Manufacturer and such.
I'm aware but have no choice. I need to get this truck down first, then I'll be able to fix it correctly once I have access to remove the old hose again. I plan to run external tubing for a permanent fix.
Made a new hose for the section I cut back and crimped a new end on the old hose. Turns out the old Parker hose was compatible with the Parker fittings in my friend's kit. I still want to run hard lines but won't need to worry about rushing to get it done.
The wind has been blowing hard all day and the power has been going out and coming back periodically. So I was trying to get this all done between outrages. I bled the far side enough to lower the truck just in time for another orange.
On another note, hydraulic fluid travels a long distance when you bleed the system in the full up position and the bleeder is not contained in the column.
The wind has been blowing hard all day and the power has been going out and coming back periodically. So I was trying to get this all done between outrages. I bled the far side enough to lower the truck just in time for another orange.
On another note, hydraulic fluid travels a long distance when you bleed the system in the full up position and the bleeder is not contained in the column.
I also pulled the slack up out of the column and secured the line to prevent getting wear from the cables again.
Nice job! That cleanup is gonna suck. At least it's not a really nice painted vehicle.
