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Starter Fixed thanks for the help!! M1008 6.2L

stallion85

stallion85

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I replaced the starter in the M1008 as I thought the 24V one went out on me. It was spinning and sounding like it was grinding, but not turn the motor but just a little bit. Inspected the fly wheel and it looks good, turn the motor by the harmonic balancer with a wrench.

Today rewired for 12V, hooked up new starter, exact same problem. The bracket in the front that holds it to the bolck is fastened and the gears are meshing with the fly wheel, but it looks like the starter just doesn't have enough power to turn it. The Battery has 13.8 Volts!!!


WTF is going on?
 
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If you went with the gear reduction starter, it has enough torque to turn your 6.2 over. I'd start by checking your battery voltage while you're turning the engine over with the starter. If it's good, I start with voltage drop tests on your primary cables (be sure to check both the positive and ground cables).

Did you keep both batteries when you swapped over to 12 volt?
 
I only have one battery right now. It is a Yellow top optima and it is reading 12.4V at the posts. I took the starter back today and put in a new one to rule it out. It is still doing the same thing. The instructions say at 12.6V the battery is 100% and at 12.4V what it is reading at is 75%. I am thinking I need to wire the positive battery cable directly to the battery instead of off of the power block. I will have to see when one of my friends can come over and we can test the voltage drop.

Question? If the starter is not getting enough volts it will still spin just not enough power to turn the motor over correctly, right?
 
stallion85 said:
I only have one battery right now. It is a Yellow top optima and it is reading 12.4V at the posts. I took the starter back today and put in a new one to rule it out. It is still doing the same thing. The instructions say at 12.6V the battery is 100% and at 12.4V what it is reading at is 75%. I am thinking I need to wire the positive battery cable directly to the battery instead of off of the power block. I will have to see when one of my friends can come over and we can test the voltage drop.

Question? If the starter is not getting enough volts it will still spin just not enough power to turn the motor over correctly, right?
Click to expand...

One battery might be pushing it on the 6.2. You have to figure that the glow plugs are putting one heck of a draw on the battery, then you compound the draw by hitting the starter. If the volts have dropped enough, the starter will turn slow. I'm running my starter off the junction block and it works great, but then all of my cables and connections are clean. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that you find a bad cable or ground after you do a voltage drop test on the components.
 
We just went through the wiring when we converted to 12V's, but it is possible we missed something. The thing is without even activating the glow plugs the starter doesn't have enough juice to it? Oh well, I can speculate all night long, but I need to just get out there with the Voltmeter and check it ......out
 
I know KennyW ran a single batt for a while. In theory having two batts shouldn't increase cranking speed, rather the amount of time you have good cranking speed. I ran my positive batt lead straight to the lug on the starter...

Colby was having similar problems with his Blazer...and it turned out to be a poor cable connection.

Rene
 
How much voltage should I have at the starter? The same as the battery? I don't know much in this area. I would like to stick with the one Yellow Top as I don't want to fork over another $150.
 
A bad connection is probably what it is considering it did this with the 24V starter the other day before I switched over.......on my starter there are only 2 wires....1 hot and the other? Where does the second wire go? The starter is grounded through the block right?
 
Ok, my bud just came over and we tried starting it with a jumper box with the positive going to the power block on the firewall and the negative to the negative block on the fire wall. Same fast clicking noise. Then I attached the negative to the block and had no power. Then I attached it to the frame and had power, but with the same clicking sound. I am thinking the engine is not grounded so the starter is not grounded too? Would it even get power if it wasn't grounded like it is?
 
Well, without a proper ground it'll do all sorts of goofy stuff...but likely it's 'stealing' ground from somewhere. Try adding a proper ground strap from engine to body and from engine to frame.

Rene
 
Try using one side of your jumper cables to go from the neg battery to the engine. If this solves the problem, you need a GOOD connection between the engine block and the neg side of the battery.
I got a 79 Dodge Power Wagon dirt cheap last year cause the owner could not get it to run right. Turns out he put a new neg cable on the battery and did not pig tail a ground to the chassis, so the ignition module was not getting a good ground. It would not pull above 2500 rpm on the road, until I hooked a chassis ground to it.
 
tRustyK5 said:
I know KennyW ran a single batt for a while. In theory having two batts shouldn't increase cranking speed, rather the amount of time you have good cranking speed. I ran my positive batt lead straight to the lug on the starter...

Colby was having similar problems with his Blazer...and it turned out to be a poor cable connection.

Rene
Click to expand...

Dual batteries won't increase the cranking speed, unless the single battery doesn't have enough reserve capacity to handle the load. I'm thinking a connection too, but I also don't see many vehicles with a diesel engine and only one battery.

I ended up replacing the cables on my CUCV after doing a voltage drop test on them. The positive cables were both bad. I changed everything over to 12 volt at the same time and don't think I'd ever go back.
 
If you have a volt meter, set the meter to DC volts and attach one lead to the neg battery terminal (not the cable, but the actual post where the cable is attached) and one lead to the engine. Have someone engage the starter while you watch the volt meter. If you read voltage, there is a problem in the ground circuit.

You can check the positive circuit by going from the pos terminal to the large pos terminal on the starter solenoid. This will check the cable from the battery, through the positive junction block, to the starter solenoid.
 
good tips. well do those tests tonight. i dropped off the charger at jeffs last night so he could charge the yellowtop all night to make sure the its fully charged.

heres a little more indepth look at the current wiring...

well look into the ground issue. i know right now connected to the negative junction block is

post #1 is negative wire going to winch
post #2 is negative cable from the battery
post #3 wire going to unknown location (ill assume ground to the frame or engine) we will have to double check this one since it is the only one we didnt change.

as for the positive junction block.

the only variations from stock is post #1 is the postive cable going to the winch and that the positive cable from the batter goes to the same post as the cable going to the starter. both of these cables are new. 2/0 from the battery to the junction block and 4/0 from the junction block to the starter.

both the positive and negative battery cables are 2/0 fine strand wire with soldered cable ends that connect to the junction blocks and clamp style batter terminals on the battery end.(same style that was on the truck before). The battery is behind the seat in the cab since the inner fenderwells are long gone.
 
If the battery only reads 12 volts then it is dead. It should ready in the high 12's or low 13's if I remember right.

Double check all your grounds. There needs to be a good ground from the battery to the engine and from the engine to the frame.

Harley
 
It read 13.4 this morning after charging all night. First thing after work today will be to look for grounds from the engine and the cab....
 
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