‘Cause 2wd sucks 
Sorry, couldn’t help myself!
Sorry, couldn’t help myself!
CK5
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Steering box is shot
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Is it better to leave it on jackstands on the front horn things where the bumper attaches or on the frame behind the wheels?
I’ve done both ways on my k-series depending on where I need room to work.
yeah you want the front tires off the ground. The jack stands need to be out of the way and in a safe sturdy location.
That's why all mine are 4wd
popping a tie rod loose isn't a big deal if it has to be done that way. Doesn't have to be a drag link either, can be at knuckle
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I can't remember for sure as I haven't had to mess with the steering on my C10 in a couple of decades, but.
Can you unbolt the idler arm from the frame ( 2 bolts) and get the center link to drop down after that? It should move forward a bit, which may let it clear the crossmember, and drop down, since the idler arm and pitman arm are supposed to hold the center link from moving up and down.
Can you unbolt the idler arm from the frame ( 2 bolts) and get the center link to drop down after that? It should move forward a bit, which may let it clear the crossmember, and drop down, since the idler arm and pitman arm are supposed to hold the center link from moving up and down.
I thought of that today while under there and I will try for sure...I can't remember for sure as I haven't had to mess with the steering on my C10 in a couple of decades, but.
Can you unbolt the idler arm from the frame ( 2 bolts) and get the center link to drop down after that? It should move forward a bit, which may let it clear the crossmember, and drop down, since the idler arm and pitman arm are supposed to hold the center link from moving up and down.
Ok, I just took everything off. I need new boots and the tie rods are shot anyway. And no way was anything coming off unless it all did. So, it will sit for a bit as I set funds aside.
Moog is really not cheap at all. LMC has a decent price point for all I need minus the center link, which I doubt needs replacing.
For tie rods inner and outer, sleeves, idler and pitman arms
Classic industries is $141 no shipping cost yet
Lmc $120 no shipping cost yet
Cj pony is at $219 for a kit (ships in 5 weeks)
Moog was at $350 with no center link
For tie rods inner and outer, sleeves, idler and pitman arms
Classic industries is $141 no shipping cost yet
Lmc $120 no shipping cost yet
Cj pony is at $219 for a kit (ships in 5 weeks)
Moog was at $350 with no center link
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Things like brakes, steering and tires I don't cheap out on. They're safety equipment in my eyes. Not saying the most expensive is always the best. But really look at your options. I used to say that longer warranty usually meant better parts but not sure that always applies now. It became a numbers game.
I get that but... I dont have the funds to get all MOOG stuff right now... the classic industries set seem the best. LMC is cheapest but...
I don't want cheap cheap but... I also can't just drop a huge chunk of money either. So we'll see
may be an unpopular opinion and I don't have any personal experience to back it up but I have read Moog is not as good as it once was
MOOG is twice the price for half of what I need
Buy the Mevotech from RockAuto. I was once told it comes out of the same factory as Moog. Always looking for a deal I have tried it a bunch and its good stuff. No idea if its really Moog but I will buy it again. Really inexpensive for what you get.
Unpopular opinion. LMC sucks. I know they have all the parts for our old trucks but they really do sell the cheap stuff with a huge markup. I have bought lots from them and been let down plenty. Don't think you are getting premium steering parts from them, its just the same old parts store stuff. And lets get real here, Classic industries isn't manufacturing steering parts either.
Unpopular opinion. LMC sucks. I know they have all the parts for our old trucks but they really do sell the cheap stuff with a huge markup. I have bought lots from them and been let down plenty. Don't think you are getting premium steering parts from them, its just the same old parts store stuff. And lets get real here, Classic industries isn't manufacturing steering parts either.
www.a-resto-parts.com
Andersen Restoration Parts is a supplier of classic car parts, classic car suspension, vintage shock absorbers, and more! See our antique car parts here!
stores.a-resto-parts.com
don't know anything about these guys; but you can get their kit cheaper through Amazon:
2nd the Mevotech. I got some ball joint to repkace the trw ones that the boot failed on under a year.
Shop Rock Auto, forget LMC.
Shop Rock Auto, forget LMC.
The thing is, you can't really count on any brand as a whole anymore. It's a giant game of re-boxing out there and even "AC Delco gold" is sometimes <1/2 the price of "GM Genuine". Certain parts are good from certain suppliers. In some cases you almost have no choice, as everything for sale is really the same part. IMO, Moog is like Timken - a lot of the manufacturing has moved overseas, resulting in some good parts and some that are now China parts at US prices.
I'm really wanting to hear more real-world use feedback on Mevotech, as they seem to be one of the few off-brands with marketing. Some of the talk on the web is that they're mostly the same cheap parts everyone else sells, but with fancy-colored seals and such. Don't forget they're all from China. The slogan bothers me because you can't "overbuild" a part in exactly the same form factor as the original part. Your variables are metallurgy and quality control.
I'm really wanting to hear more real-world use feedback on Mevotech, as they seem to be one of the few off-brands with marketing. Some of the talk on the web is that they're mostly the same cheap parts everyone else sells, but with fancy-colored seals and such. Don't forget they're all from China. The slogan bothers me because you can't "overbuild" a part in exactly the same form factor as the original part. Your variables are metallurgy and quality control.
