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Steering box is shot

Then there is the Moog problem solvers line. This is a part line thatvis developed to "solve" a design flaw or chronic failure area. Sometimes is just and over size part to fit an expensive or irreplaceable part.
Have to decide whether this line is needed or not, it usually more expensive.
 
The thing is, you can't really count on any brand as a whole anymore. It's a giant game of re-boxing out there and even "AC Delco gold" is sometimes <1/2 the price of "GM Genuine". Certain parts are good from certain suppliers. In some cases you almost have no choice, as everything for sale is really the same part. IMO, Moog is like Timken - a lot of the manufacturing has moved overseas, resulting in some good parts and some that are now China parts at US prices.

I'm really wanting to hear more real-world use feedback on Mevotech, as they seem to be one of the few off-brands with marketing. Some of the talk on the web is that they're mostly the same cheap parts everyone else sells, but with fancy-colored seals and such. Don't forget they're all from China. The slogan bothers me because you can't "overbuild" a part in exactly the same form factor as the original part. Your variables are metallurgy and quality control.

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I'm leaning towards classic industries as of now for the price point. I'm going check rockauto and price compare the Mevotech and see what that is. I have to try and stay under $200 total.
 
I'm leaning towards classic industries as of now for the price point. I'm going check rockauto and price compare the Mevotech and see what that is. I have to try and stay under $200 total.
From my research mevotech tax is worth the money and if it's under your $200 limit I would go for it.
 
These say they don't fit my 69' and they dont have the sleeve only a stop but it seems.

Honestly the classic industries kit takes a lot of the guess work out as it's already labeled what vehicles it will work with.

Rock autos site hurts my eyes with its layout.
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I realize I might be a little late but I rebuilt my steering gear box. It can be found halfway down on the first page of my build thread.


I don't know how you would replace the seal without taking the gearbox off the truck and completely disassembling. Happy to share anything I learned if needed.

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Months later now. I got the snap ring off today, and started the truck and turned it lock to lock and the inner seal blew (was messy but most of the fluid already leaked out) as I wanted. Letting it drain now and can hopefully get the new steering put on soon and then get aligned again. And then hopefully back on the road.

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Months later now. I got the snap ring off today, and started the truck and turned it lock to lock and the inner seal blew (was messy but most of the fluid already leaked out) as I wanted. Letting it drain now and can hopefully get the new steering put on soon and then get aligned again. And then hopefully back on the road.

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Usually we take the snap ring off then put the arm back on to stop the seal from shooting out and hurting anyone
 
Months later now. I got the snap ring off today, and started the truck and turned it lock to lock and the inner seal blew (was messy but most of the fluid already leaked out) as I wanted. Letting it drain now and can hopefully get the new steering put on soon and then get aligned again. And then hopefully back on the road.

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Nice helper
 
Just had this happen on my 78. Albeit cross over steering so a 2wd box. Replaced with an autozone unit in 2016... Truch has seen maybe 200 miles since then!
For now, i plan on just getting a rebuilt from advance auto but will try and sourca another box to rebuild... Or save up for one with hyd steering assist hookups.
Man it left a nasty mark on the street... Glad it is on the other side of the development!!!! Lol
 
I've used the thread file and it seems better. I don't see anything g preventing the nut from going on. Maybe a more trained eye sees something I don't. The nut tightens like 1-2 turn turn stops but I think it will go more but the steering wheels moves and I don't know if it safe to juts go ahead with the steering wheel maxed out. All the steering components are removed.

Also to tighten it down what's a trick to keep the steering wheels from moving so I get the nut to tighten more than a 1-2 turns

Pics of the threads all the way around ect ect.

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I will add I was able to have the nut engage a bit more after another thread file session after taking the above pics. But I don't see what threads are bad. Hopefully you guys can see what I don't
 
Has the end of the output shaft been hammered? In the 2nd and third pics the threads at the end dont look even
Agreed , first and second thread rings don’t look in the best of shape.
A proper thread file might be able to help with some patience.
 
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