Did you end up using the 22-403 5/1 rear leafs? How do you like them? I'm thinking of using them as replacement also, but curious about how stiff they might be?
CK5
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Stock or 2in Lift Suspension Suggestions
- Thread starter green55
- Start date
X2 on the Skyjackers. Thats what I have on my 77 Jimmy. I used to have 33 12.50's with no lift and my tires never rubbed. They weren't stock wheels so I am not sure of the backspacing. I am now running 35 12.50's with the Skyjacker Softride add a leafs and I get a little rub if the rear end is really flexing or the front if I am backing up and cranking the wheel hard left or ride, then the tires hit the tie rod ends just a little. I am also carrying a lot of extra weight so that may have something to do with it. Winch, 2 batteries, small block 400, plus all my tools for work and she tips the scales at work at right around 6400.
Well I'm gonna use the 22-403 springs with a ORD 2.5in shackle flip kit. I have a good amount of weight on the back that I'm hoping the springs work well with. I'm going with alcans for the front & bilstein 5125s all around. *Coming down from a 6in lift to a 2in, 35s to 33s. I'm just curious how a soft spring in the front will ride with what I assume will be stiff springs in the rear?.
Finally gathering all the parts for this. All shocks & the front springs are here. U-bolts on the way. I need to replace all of the hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, etc). Where can figure out the sizes needed to all of those?
And any recommendations on cheapest place to get all of those grade 8 bolts?
And any recommendations on cheapest place to get all of those grade 8 bolts?
Imo best bet is to go to a hardware store and use their tool to determine thread pitch/size e.t.c. In terms of saving, that I'm not sure about.
Cheapest I've found is local/farm ranch store (Tractor Supply) sells grade 8 hardware by the pound.
A more expensive option, but worthwhile IMO, greasable bolts.
https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17724
Front main eye and both rear springs are 9/16 coarse x 4.5" long.
Front shackles are 7/16" for most and 1/2" after 88 or something.
Make them longer if you're running thick shackles.
Also if you havent already, get new front upper shackle bushings from energy suspension or DIY4X and ORD for the upgraded ones. Nice but generally unnecessary upgrade for street duty.
Front shackles are 7/16" for most and 1/2" after 88 or something.
Make them longer if you're running thick shackles.
Also if you havent already, get new front upper shackle bushings from energy suspension or DIY4X and ORD for the upgraded ones. Nice but generally unnecessary upgrade for street duty.
I recently did Pro Comp 2.5" lift. At 520 lb/in its supposedly softer than stock spring rate of 540. My stock Springs were seriously sagging and bottoming out so I can't give a real comparison. I am very happy with the ride.
I noticed something interesting the other day while measuring to make sure I get the correct rear springs. Looks like I have some shims (don’t know if that’s the right word) under my rear springs right now. The reason I find this interesting is because I’ve had intermittent driveline vibrations and tons of premature wearing of u-joints since the current ~2in add-a-leaf was originally put in. I wonder if these shims are part of the cause. Or they could be helping make it better, because it seems the way they’re in there, they’d point the diff more up towards the transfer case, causing decreased angles…
should I get rid of those when replacing the rear springs? I don’t know if it’s something that’ll just come off when I remove the springs or if they’re attached to the axle somehow. Pic is from rear bumper
should I get rid of those when replacing the rear springs? I don’t know if it’s something that’ll just come off when I remove the springs or if they’re attached to the axle somehow. Pic is from rear bumper
Yeah those are shims and they're bolted to your spring pack with the center pin. My suggestion would be get your new springs in and then check driveline angles. You might have to go back and add some shims.
After further review on the play, those are actually aluminium shims and garbage components. They dont even bolt in, they slide in. So your center pin is barely engaged onto the perch.
Take em out as soon as you reasonably can.
Take em out as soon as you reasonably can.
Wow ok, that doesn’t sound great. It’s been driving like this for at least 10k miles, so maybe lucky nothing has happened
Did you decide on the rear springs? I got the 22-403s installed on mine, but waiting on my front springs to come in later this week. I can give an opinion on how stiff they are in about another week.
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Pretty sure I'm going to go with 22-815s. They're the 4/1 leafs that were on there from the factory. Me having an '89 is screwing me on prices, because springs are much cheaper pre-88, I assume because there is much higher demand for them. But oh well...I'm getting them from Suspension King because their price is the best. Their part numbers are different, but same specs so should be the same thing.
Also, went with 2 leafs up front, which is what it came from the factory with. Got those from General Spring because their price was best on those.
Hoping it all rides nicely, it can't ride worse. Although I've gotten so used to it riding like trash because it always has, I worry it won't be as "fun" to drive once the suspension actually functions lol
Also, went with 2 leafs up front, which is what it came from the factory with. Got those from General Spring because their price was best on those.
Hoping it all rides nicely, it can't ride worse. Although I've gotten so used to it riding like trash because it always has, I worry it won't be as "fun" to drive once the suspension actually functions lol
Soooo if you’re staying at the stock height, you definitely don’t want to use the 22-403 springs. The ride isn’t terrible, but they are giving me an extra 2inches of lift! I’ve got a serious rake/nose bleed happening. I expecting it level out nicely once I get some weight on the back. But it looks silly as it sits empty.
Also, you can use any year springs. Mine is an 89. Only difference I believe is 88-91 used metric bolts. If you get springs with an 1.5 inch eyelids you can use the correct sae bolts instead.
Also, you can use any year springs. Mine is an 89. Only difference I believe is 88-91 used metric bolts. If you get springs with an 1.5 inch eyelids you can use the correct sae bolts instead.
Back to looking at this again...any tips on how I'd access the nut on the front of the rear springs? its tucked up pretty close to the frame, don't think I have anything that'd fit in there to secure it (or tighten the new one if I get this out). All of the other bolts look pretty accessible
Drop wrench in from top side . . Atleast on trucks .
Pre-soak all your hardware in lube to help in disassembly.
Pre-soak all your hardware in lube to help in disassembly.
