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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail

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Autometer makes electronic speedos that will basically read any speed sensor, you just push a button, drive two miles, and push the button again to program it. Then you won't have to worry about losing the speedo under trees and tunnels, etc.
 
folkenheath said:
Autometer makes electronic speedos that will basically read any speed sensor, you just push a button, drive two miles, and push the button again to program it. Then you won't have to worry about losing the speedo under trees and tunnels, etc.
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Yup, I use one and it works great. Used it with a dakota digital VSS and stock GM VSS.
 
ashman said:
Yup, I use one and it works great. Used it with a dakota digital VSS and stock GM VSS.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have one behind an auto meter sensor that screws into the speedo cable on the NP205 tcase in my truck, works perfect. If you ever change gears or tire size just reprogram it quick.

I also have one reading the stock VSS in the 4L80E in my regal, works perfect again. Although I am switching it to the Holley EFI with the BB swap so what I plan to do is let the Holley read the VSS then have the hollley output a PWM to drive the speedo. This will also allow me to select the vehicle speed as a parameter to switch things on and off, such as switch the cooling fans off at highway speeds, etc.

Or if you had the digital dash you could just use that for your gauges, fully programmable gauges at that point for any sensor you have or add to the car. I am actually adding a trans pressure sensor so I can log trans pressure during a run.
 
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Stomis said:
Yeah but I have the AEM gauge so I figured I'd use an input to data log both banks
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Only issue with that is you are trimming with the Holley o2. So what you see from the second bank is because of bank 1. You could correct some with it in logs but it would just be there for more of a reference.
 
folkenheath said:
Autometer makes electronic speedos that will basically read any speed sensor, you just push a button, drive two miles, and push the button again to program it. Then you won't have to worry about losing the speedo under trees and tunnels, etc.
Click to expand...
I'll have to
Team208Motorsports said:
Only issue with that is you are trimming with the Holley o2. So what you see from the second bank is because of bank 1. You could correct some with it in logs but it would just be there for more of a reference.
Click to expand...

Im really only doing it as a reference if I have a lazy injector or something on the non holley read bank.
 
Got everything the holley harness didnt have that the stocker did added into my body harness. Alt exciter wire, solenoid, and rewired the fans standalone.



Everything is so much cleaner now. I also decided to up my charging wire from 4ga to 2 ga and move it from the hot bus on the firewall down to the starter where the main front to back battery cable directly hits. I was having flickering issues before with my lights and had the alternator tested 4 times, so it must have been lacking somewhere...

All thats left is to mount the ecu and run the homerun harness back to the battery for the ecu power. Holley requires the ecu be directly grounded and powered from the battery so I moved the trucks power to the top posts and the holley to the side terminals.
 
Well its running on the holley!

Loaded up the base tune, had a few little issues at first but the software is really great. I was a little bit intimidated at first and confused on how the learning worked until I realized you could sit there and talk to the ECU back and forth rewriting the fuel tables off the learning. I struggled with some idle issues that Ive got pretty much fixed now. Its amazing how many different aspects you can control. Im also going to need to get a piston stop and TDC mark and pointer on my balancer to ensure timing is dead on and that I dont need to adjust anything. Im really happy with it. I have a stock LS1 timing table loaded in right now which Im planning on keeping until I get the fuel trim dialed in and the truck running good all over.

After that Ill start feeding it more timing. At that point I guess its either time to hit the track or the dyno to see where the diminishing point is with the timing. I never thought you hit a point where more timing didnt give you more power but then again I never tried squeezing a motor that hard.

Also on the horizon I may opt to do a cam swap to something a little bigger, deck the heads and squeeze the quench down to .035 to get compression up to about 12:1. That realistically as hard as I can squeeze it with this motor, these heads, and these pistons. I really dont want to deck the heads to the point where theyre useless for anything but a race motor in the future. Right now Id be eyeing up taking them down to 55cc's to get it up to 12:1. And at the same time I doubt I would go this route w/o getting the meth on it also. But lets not put the cart before the horse :D

Heres the final wiring install. Just need to make a cover plate for the firewall.








O and I dont know if it was upping all my wires sizes or what but I eliminated the flickering light situation I was having.
 
I was just thinking about this truck last night, I was going to bump it if I didn't see it soon.

When I dyno'ed my 406, it lost power (albeit quickly I might add) after 38 degrees, at 40 degrees of timing it lost 8 horse (iirc).
I say tune on the dyno if you can. Some others say tune at the track.
I don't think you will go wrong either way.
Glad to hear your getting it sorted out.
 
beags86 said:
I was just thinking about this truck last night, I was going to bump it if I didn't see it soon.

When I dyno'ed my 406, it lost power (albeit quickly I might add) after 38 degrees, at 40 degrees of timing it lost 8 horse (iirc).
I say tune on the dyno if you can. Some others say tune at the track.
I don't think you will go wrong either way.
Glad to hear your getting it sorted out.
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Yeah. Working on tuning I was fighting an idle issue but found a vacuum leak so time to retune now. Its pretty damn close everywhere else other than idle. Time to start feeding it timing once the idles done.
 
Still fighting idle issues but I think I found them after some research tonight. Its crazy the extent of how much stuff Im trying to handle absorbing to get my head around this...
 
It is very overwhelming. My best advice is to just change one thing at a time and save each previous tune with a name describing what you changed.
 
Well after fiddling with it today Ive pretty much drawn the conclusion something non computer controlled is causing my crash issue with the idle. I could be crazy but the PCV system is coming off tomorrow. My PCV catch can is an ebay special and I have no idea what the PCV is actually from. I just went through the shelf at the store until I found one that fitted my needs and I think it was a mistake.

My idle parameters are good. My idle itself is stable. Fueling changes make zero affect, IAC changes make zero affect, timing changes make zero affect. The truck runs and drives no issue other than this erratic crash returning to idle. If I slightly hold my foot on the gas, not even 1% tps, it will return to idle perfect. If Im driving it and I downshift it and engine decel below 1500ish RPMs it will return normal.

Im really think the PCV is causing a lean spike on RPM decel and its all happening way to quick for the computer to compensate.

Hell I even ran the truck on stock 5.3 fuel and spark tables to ensure I didnt screw something up I was missing. Smooth fuel table out in graph mode yada yada yada.

@Team208Motorsports any pointers?



Btw totally ready for the RTI ramp




:haha:
 
I noticed you changed the IAC, have you tried closing it further at warm idle and opening the throttle a little to compensate?
 
Zip up the global folder and email it to me. Also take a normal log and a system log. Email those as well. It may just be a config error.

Manual trans in the holleys take more off throttle work than on.

Idle issues are usually wrong base air or wrong setup.
 
folkenheath said:
I noticed you changed the IAC, have you tried closing it further at warm idle and opening the throttle a little to compensate?
Click to expand...

Yes my IAC is dialed. Throttle blade is cracked to give me 2-4% iac fluctuation.

Team208Motorsports said:
Zip up the global folder and email it to me. Also take a normal log and a system log. Email those as well. It may just be a config error.

Manual trans in the holleys take more off throttle work than on.

Idle issues are usually wrong base air or wrong setup.
Click to expand...

Im working out a new tune right now. After much research I found I was being a total bonehead and trying to fix a decel issue in the wrong section of the table... So yeah Im an idiot and such :D Live and learn. If the issue persists Ill shoot it over to you. The truck was running f'ing great other than the idle decel issue.
 
Well I loaded in the new tune yesterday. After a little playing, ok I lied a lot of playing, I got really frustrated and just started from square one. Running pretty decent now, no dying on decel anymore, table was to lean coming down in the 1100-1400 range causing it to crash when it went back into idle parameters. I was gonna take it for a drive but the ground is still wet from rain.

Drag radial problems...
 
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