CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Swettysblazer's 1991 K5 Trazer: ONE TONS!

Beings this cab is from a diesel and was set up for hydroboost, would I be better off swapping to that while I'm here?? What parts would I need?

I would. You need the booster, MC, lines and pump/ reservoir. Petty easy since you have the pedal and bucket already. For the amount of braking performance It gives you, you would be stupid not to at this point. Imo.
 
Beings this cab is from a diesel and was set up for hydroboost, would I be better off swapping to that while I'm here?? What parts would I need?

Aside from the 2 studs reversed on the pedal cluster (if you even have that, it's not clear in the pictures), I don't think the cab is any different.

If you want hydro, this is probably the time to swap it, while the truck is apart anyway. But I don't want you to get carried away with the Might-As-Well (TM) feelings... :rolleyes:

Do you plan to hit the brakes with the throttle open or closed? Hydro brakes work well when the engine is running fast, vacuum brakes work well when the throttle is closed. My observation is that, when traveling slowly, my engine is usually running slowly also, and my hydro brakes are not at their strongest (noticeable on both of my trucks). And I do lose P/S pressure while braking. Steering while applying the brakes does sometimes prompt me to rev the engine slightly to get more P/S fluid flowing. I find this sluggishness somewhat annoying, and it definitely was something that I had to get used to.

The hydro booster is said to provide more boost than the vacuum booster (I don't have an apples-to-apples comparison, but I have no reason to doubt this). But the loss of responsiveness (both brake and P/S) at lower engine speeds is real.

So pick whichever system fits your real-world usage patterns, and go with that. :thumb:


:popcorn:
 
Keep the hydraboost.

I'll take it any day over vacuum assist.

Being that cab already has it....I'd run it.
 
The hydro booster is said to provide more boost than the vacuum booster (I don't have an apples-to-apples comparison, but I have no reason to doubt this).

Taken from the vanco website;


Vacuum boosters put out between 1,000-1,600 lbs of pressure to your brake system. The hydroboost puts out between 2,400-3000 lbs of pressure to your brake system. This is basically giving you the power to stop the vehicle. It's the actual clamping pressure your calipers or wheel cylinders have to clinch onto the rotor/drum.

Vanco might be the way to go for ya...

http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm
 
Being that cab already has it....I'd run it.

Looking at the pictures, I was thinking that the cab did not come with it and he would have to source parts for the conversion. :dunno:



Vacuum boosters put out between 1,000-1,600 lbs of pressure to your brake system. The hydroboost puts out between 2,400-3000 lbs of pressure to your brake system. This is basically giving you the power to stop the vehicle. It's the actual clamping pressure your calipers or wheel cylinders have to clinch onto the rotor/drum.

I'm not doubting the performance of hydroboost units, I'm simply saying that I haven't done a vac-->hydro conversion to get an apples-to-apples comparison. I also wanted to point out some of the drawbacks, as I haven't seen them advertised as often as the advantages.

Either one will be fine, and the conversion shouldn't be hard if you're starting from a blank firewall.
 
Well, so much for not getting out of hand. Just got a disc braked AAM 14 bolt and some 63 inch springs.... Any guesses whats next?
 
Looking at the pictures, I was thinking that the cab did not come with it and he would have to source parts for the conversion. :dunno:





I'm not doubting the performance of hydroboost units, I'm simply saying that I haven't done a vac-->hydro conversion to get an apples-to-apples comparison. I also wanted to point out some of the drawbacks, as I haven't seen them advertised as often as the advantages.

Either one will be fine, and the conversion shouldn't be hard if you're starting from a blank firewall.


Missed that part :haha:
 
If you're buying a Dana 60, make sure it is actually a Dana 60 this time.

Martin
 
:doah: I thought we were past that....


Yah like not ever :haha:

I saw a trazer with some stepside bedsides. Bedsides were cut down to fit exactly. Looked super cool. Always wanted one never worked out.

I stand by my sliders welded to the body and frame statement before. How far up you go depends on how much you wanna mess with the doors
 
Well, so much for not getting out of hand. Just got a disc braked AAM 14 bolt and some 63 inch springs.... Any guesses whats next?

That escalated quickly. Maybe we should start counting the few parts that you are planning to keep... :dunno:

What's your timeline for getting this thing back together? Dune Party 2019? :rolleyes:
 
Well, so much for not getting out of hand. Just got a disc braked AAM 14 bolt and some 63 inch springs.... Any guesses whats next?
Good for you, My 1st trip out as a trazer was with 52" springs in back and no rear sheetmetal. It sucked, with no weight in the back, I kept lifting a rear tire while flexing it out.
I stand by my sliders welded to the body and frame statement before. How far up you go depends on how much you wanna mess with the doors
^Thats the way to go. My sliders are just under the lower hinge. Was planning on running full doors or half doors, bottoms of the doors needed to be trimmed. But then I ended up getting DIY tube doors and now wish I would have just put the slider up higher. But oh well
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom