What I'm saying is, it's an ignition(electrical) issue.
If you could check spark when it stalls, it would solve this dilemma
Replace that ignition module with one of good known quality. (Good brand name)
It's the only thing that makes any sense
CK5
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TBI fuel injector trouble?
- Thread starter jteck10
- Start date
If you could check spark when it stalls, it would solve this dilemma
Replace that ignition module with one of good known quality. (Good brand name)
It's the only thing that makes any sense
If you had to have a repair shop do a simple install of a ignition control module you may be in over your head here. You are never going to find a repair shop that is going to give one sh!t about fixing your 30-year old truck right, or if they even know how.
And don't forget the dielectric grease.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
that had crossed my mind, i might go that route once i get the oil pressure sensor on tomorrow
then of course test fuel pressure, because why not
jteck10
1/2 ton status
completely agree. it wasnt the installation i couldnt handle. its the diagnosing the truck as its dead on a main road.
plus, i have this wealth of knowledge of a website and you guys to help me out
jteck10
1/2 ton status
welp. giving up for the night
i had some time today to get the new oil pressure sensor in
upon taking out the old one, the base of the fitting broke and some of it stayed in the top of the block (go figure)
i used an EZ out to remove it safely, and went to grab a new shorty oil pressure adapter fitting
now the fun starts
in order to get to the new fitting i had to remove the cap/rotor/plugs, and loosen the distributor to get leverage on loosing the now broken fitting
i went to install the fitting and noticed it was too short and was barely skimming the edge of the block its at
no biggie, used pliers and got it nice and snug
installed the new sensor, but now its upright and not 90 degrees like the old one.
its tall enough to where the distributor hits it, and i was going to adjust timing again once the truck got running
put it all back together, twisted the distributor to where i had closest marked where it was
now it'll barely start and die right away
i did notice, while i had to remove the rotor and ICM that the previous shop put in, there wasnt any dielectric grease underneath it
doubt that was the issue, but i thought that had to be added.
thought the battery was worn from trying to start it so many times, used the womans car to jump and that didnt work
questions now
- can it be so far out of timing that it wont even stay on?
- yes i checked the right firing order for the wires and cap, everything is right
- my trucks oil pressure sensor fitting adapter thing is discontinued and i cant find it online anywhere. even called chevy parts to get the right part number
im getting a beer, then another, and leaving this for another day
i had some time today to get the new oil pressure sensor in
upon taking out the old one, the base of the fitting broke and some of it stayed in the top of the block (go figure)
i used an EZ out to remove it safely, and went to grab a new shorty oil pressure adapter fitting
now the fun starts
in order to get to the new fitting i had to remove the cap/rotor/plugs, and loosen the distributor to get leverage on loosing the now broken fitting
i went to install the fitting and noticed it was too short and was barely skimming the edge of the block its at
no biggie, used pliers and got it nice and snug
installed the new sensor, but now its upright and not 90 degrees like the old one.
its tall enough to where the distributor hits it, and i was going to adjust timing again once the truck got running
put it all back together, twisted the distributor to where i had closest marked where it was
now it'll barely start and die right away
i did notice, while i had to remove the rotor and ICM that the previous shop put in, there wasnt any dielectric grease underneath it
doubt that was the issue, but i thought that had to be added.
thought the battery was worn from trying to start it so many times, used the womans car to jump and that didnt work
questions now
- can it be so far out of timing that it wont even stay on?
- yes i checked the right firing order for the wires and cap, everything is right
- my trucks oil pressure sensor fitting adapter thing is discontinued and i cant find it online anywhere. even called chevy parts to get the right part number
im getting a beer, then another, and leaving this for another day
The way you put the oil press/sender in is a good idea if it does not interfere with the distributor. I change the positioning of my oil press/sender as well on my TBI truck. The factory position sucks because it is too close to the firewall for the connector to plug in without it rubbing the firewall. I completely removed my distributor, and went to a hardware store to purchase all the brass fittings I needed to install the oil press/sender in a better position so the connector did not rub against the firewall. I also designed my oil press/sending brass fitting to be able to attach a oil pressure gauge to it as well.
The module needs heat conductive paste, not dielectric grease. I would expect they are two different things in most cases, if heat conductive paste is not used the modules usually fail in very short order. I wouldn't trust the module being good. IIRC there is a way to test them. But electrical components and heat will do weird things, and not all the time.
Back to recommending a spare distributor to try. At this age pickup coil, wiring, connectors, magnets can all be a potential source of problems. Without heat paste, I'd suspect the module now too. Just my take.
With the brown wire disconnected, the thing should crank without issue, but to start, it's going to need to be somewhat close to 0*.
Back to recommending a spare distributor to try. At this age pickup coil, wiring, connectors, magnets can all be a potential source of problems. Without heat paste, I'd suspect the module now too. Just my take.
With the brown wire disconnected, the thing should crank without issue, but to start, it's going to need to be somewhat close to 0*.
Legines 45 Degree Street Elbow 1/8" NPT Male x 1/8" NPT Female Brass Pipe Fitting (Pack of 2) https://a.co/d/8u9XWDh
Definitely needs thermal paste. Get at an electronic or computer store if auto parts doesn't have.
Clean the base plate. Before you apply paste.
Timing can cause your current not stay running symptoms.
Clean the base plate. Before you apply paste.
Timing can cause your current not stay running symptoms.
I agree, now that I'm thinking about it. Heat conductive paste/gel. I've had to use it on heat sinks, in my welder build.
Anyway, I digress.
My money is on that module being the culprit here.
Will that clear the intake?
I've had bad luck with trying to get fittings that can squeeze in both there and above the oil filter. Not a lot of room up close to the block. Not a huge fan of a bunch of plumbing fittings cobbled together to make it fit either, but those are an option as well. 1/8 NPT IIRC.
I’d suggest a short hydraulic hose like from a flexible grease gun but shorter.
I’ll offer this up from my experience, my 90 Blazer had similar random engine stalling symptoms as well, finally found that the wire loom that passes behind the engine and lays on top of the bellhousing of the transmission had rubbed on the sharp casting ridge dead center of the bellhousing and shorted out a couple of wires in the loom.
i finally found it because I would wiggle the loom looking for bad connections and it’d run for 1 minute or 1 month but then it got worse and I finally found the shorted wires.
lots of variables have been added from your original issue but hang in there, you’ll get it figure it out eventually.
i finally found it because I would wiggle the loom looking for bad connections and it’d run for 1 minute or 1 month but then it got worse and I finally found the shorted wires.
lots of variables have been added from your original issue but hang in there, you’ll get it figure it out eventually.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
Got it, I’ll give her one last to on a new ICM and put the paste on there
Anyway to tell if the timing is close without it starting?
jteck10
1/2 ton status
Ah got it, I’ve heard of guys disconnecting the brown wire to set the timing. I’ll try that and the new ICM to start
Almost every Square body truck I have owned has had that problem. It may have not caused a problem yet, but it was going to If I did not fix it. Every time I have ever bought a square body I inspect the wiring harness that runs behind the engine and across the firewall.
Just rethread it
Use the 45° in the sort straight you have already installed. That should give the room you ne to turn it. Then you can angle the sensor away from the dist, and firewall.
jteck10
1/2 ton status
well after getting a new ignition control module, getting heat resistant paste, trying to start with and without brown wire connected - still nothing
any other ideas for getting it going before i tow it to another shop?
im starting to pull my hair out on this one.....
Completed :
- New water pump
- New water outlet housing
- New thermostat (195 degree)
- Fuel pump primes audibly
- Injectors look to have fuel coming out of them
- Check engine light works
- New oil pressure sensor next to distributor
- New oil pressure sensor fitting
- Distributor was moved in order to access oil pressure sensor fitting
Not done:
- Checked fuel pressure
- Test pressure at o2 bung for catalytic converter fail
any other ideas for getting it going before i tow it to another shop?
im starting to pull my hair out on this one.....
Completed :
- New water pump
- New water outlet housing
- New thermostat (195 degree)
- Fuel pump primes audibly
- Injectors look to have fuel coming out of them
- Check engine light works
- New oil pressure sensor next to distributor
- New oil pressure sensor fitting
- Distributor was moved in order to access oil pressure sensor fitting
Not done:
- Checked fuel pressure
- Test pressure at o2 bung for catalytic converter fail
