did the 205 stop being a leaky biatch?
So far. Only 60 miles or so on it since it was outdid the 205 stop being a leaky biatch?
So far. Only 60 miles or so on it since it was out

Have you considered using a piece of flexible in between?SO been really looking and thinking about the exhaust:
1) I need to replace the pipe all the way back. Aside from selling the first born, anyone have a good idea for a "kit" that would get the fumes out from under and still miss the tank in the back and the shocks? Wasn't sure a burb kit would fit, and not inclined to have a shop do the work.
2) decided that replacing the collector is my best bet. I am hesitant on the V band
Reason being, I think the frame flex may be part of the issue. @6872xtc says it's all me, not the truck?
Leaning toward ball-socket type
V band guys, tell me why I'm wrong?
You also have links, leaf springs suspension still puts a twist on the frame and he doesn't have a full cage.My exhaust is welded to the frame, zero issues but I don't wheel it like you do.
Have you considered using a piece of flexible in between?
I know on my big rig there's a piece because the engine torque twists the whole frame when you take off with a full 80k load.
I will try and put some in strategic areas to compensate for flexing
@6872xtc brought up that the short headers that are angled are possibly amplifying the problemI believe you are correct that the twisting your truck does is disturbing the collector. My old setup did it too. I now have v-bands and so far they have been great. I don’t believe there are any kits that will work without modifications. I just bought the parts and built it myself. I went out behind the forward spring mount.
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And that is likely. I may have to hug the frame like @Fastereddie did too. But then I probably need flex pipeCouple of thoughts... none of this is the gospel truth so if I'm wrong...
First, factory burb stuff should work aside from attaching to your obviously non stock headers...
Hangers may need adjustments (or changed altogether) and the shackle flip brackets in the rear will cause pipe to spring clearance issues because of the side exits...
Otherwise any differences will be nominal at best, and will more likely result from the 77's drivetrain and suspension mods than the fact that it is burb vs truck.
Burb has a ~2" shorter wheel base factory but that can be adjusted during fitment to your headers...
As for a good quality pre-Mark kit to buy, I have no advice.
Honestly I don't see you being too happy trying to use a kit built for a specific application though. The above mentioned things will need adjustments and there is bound to be sections that don't fit quite the way you'd like. I think that you'll end up wishing that you'd have started with a box of bends and built your own.
Not sure. I did not hook up the tuner. Kinda waiting for the software fixI believe that you could either use a ball and socket collector, or install a section of flex pipe. I think that either should cure any movement problems. The V bands aren't the choice for the collectors unless paired with flex pipe. Just like @imiceman44 said. All of the big diesel trucks have this arrangement. I have had trucks at work ruin a $500 downpipe because it got into the frame from bad engine mounts. The V band at the turbo starts moving and wears out the pipe. I agree that you probably won't like a kit. Too many things changed on your truck, and you are going to want to keep an eye on clearance. I did like Eddie to get out of the frame. Not sure if my rear shock is going to die early from it though.
At you still considering going to a single?
And now I'm curious about what you have going on with the problems that you mentioned.

My engine mounts were bad on my old Columbia and the pipe and clamp were rubbing on the frame and ruined parts.I believe that you could either use a ball and socket collector, or install a section of flex pipe. I think that either should cure any movement problems. The V bands aren't the choice for the collectors unless paired with flex pipe. Just like @imiceman44 said. All of the big diesel trucks have this arrangement. I have had trucks at work ruin a $500 downpipe because it got into the frame from bad engine mounts. The V band at the turbo starts moving and wears out the pipe. I agree that you probably won't like a kit. Too many things changed on your truck, and you are going to want to keep an eye on clearance. I did like Eddie to get out of the frame. Not sure if my rear shock is going to die early from it though.
At you still considering going to a single?
And now I'm curious about what you have going on with the problems that you mentioned.
I still have leafs in the rear and still fram flex. When I ran hells gate my bed kissed the cab.You also have links, leaf springs suspension still puts a twist on the frame and he doesn't have a full cage.
I also used a summit builders kit and it was good quality and had lots of extra stuff for my K5. I also vote flex pipe of some sort in the system.As far as collectors I dont have any input. But for a kit I really liked a 2.25" builders kit I bount off summit. Came with enough bends and straight sections to do my old F150 from the manifolds back as well as my current XJ. And I still have a couple bends left