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The Bent77 K10 now tow pig

Awesome
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I like the u-build exhaust kits. I used a flowmaster kit twice now. Once on my 83 with the diesel and again on my Blazer with the LS swap.

I have fizzucked the tailpipe area so often, and about 2003 I routed my tailpipe like Fastereddie for the first time. Outboard, and then high and tight to the frame. Nothing hits it, and it hits nothing. I have done it multiple times now, with up to 3" pipes. A pair of slip fit 90's will get you outboard of the frame nice and easy...

Ball and Socket collectors are best for our spaghetti/floptastic frames.

Dual 3" on the TBI 350.


Dual 2.5" into single 3" tail with the 5.3

 
I don't think I'll build another exhaust without a piece of flexpipe. I'm glad I have the v-bands for the ability to take the exhaust apart in sections. Personally I think they are a little difficult to work with. I feel like a ball and socket connection would be more forgiving but I don't know how hard it is to find those not already installed on headers. They are also probably more expensive than v-bands. I've had 2 different v-band brands and I like Summit's the best - don't remember the other brand, might have been Vibrant. I like the clamp on the Summit v-band better.

FWIW, the way @Fastereddie has his tailpipe routed is how I did it on the K5.
 
tRustyK5 said:
I like the u-build exhaust kits. I used a flowmaster kit twice now. Once on my 83 with the diesel and again on my Blazer with the LS swap.

I have fizzucked the tailpipe area so often, and about 2003 I routed my tailpipe like Fastereddie for the first time. Outboard, and then high and tight to the frame. Nothing hits it, and it hits nothing. I have done it multiple times now, with up to 3" pipes. A pair of slip fit 90's will get you outboard of the frame nice and easy...

Ball and Socket collectors are best for our spaghetti/floptastic frames.

Dual 3" on the TBI 350.


Dual 2.5" into single 3" tail with the 5.3

Click to expand...

Seen both in person you did a nice job on them!
 
Truckman4life said:
Hedman makes them and others too. Semis always used slip fit joints with band clamps. They get rusty after a short time though. V-bands would be a pain to line up.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/2...8jaJD83tkYPp-NVkcGVZVWewPfo5EL1EaAm3jEALw_wcB
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Yeah especially now, I buy the stainless parts because they last longer, I put a ss flex on my exhaust and 3 weeks later it was covered with surface rust.
Stainless steel my ass.
When I used regular steel it was rusted through in less than a year and I am in California
 
Well I’m definitely thinking flex is the way to go

I believe the V bands would be fine with the flex pipe in the system. But either would work I think

I have chunks of old pipe. I’ll probably start mocking up how I want it to come out from under with the scrap, then order a kit and recreate everything once it’s right
 
skunked said:
FWIW Speedway was cheaper for a build your own kit.
Click to expand...
Cool was looking at some Saturday but didn’t write drown prices yet. I’m not quite @mrk5 , but yeah probably am

Looking at ball/socket, flex, and 2.5” all the way back. Reuse the Thrush mufflers


Next thing to determine is if I lost the fuel pump/plugged filter again or if there is still a leak on the drivers side exhaust I’m not finding, making th 02 read bad. Believe some of both currently
 
Be mindful of the fact that some of the ball and socket joints aren't as large as the pipe diameter. The neck down to a smaller size for the socket.
 
Are you only putting ball & socket on the headers?

Those look to be the caviar choice, you may want to look at something more in the pot roast range....

But seriously, putting 2 or 3 of those ball and socket in each side would get pricey.
 
Just at the header

Probably flex pipe just behind the t case, roughly in the middle of the run. The actually run the pip out from under behind the tire. The seat burner like @ktmoutfront has isn’t my favorite
 
why not a flex pipe like late model vehicles all run . the one thats a flex pipe and covered in wire mesh stuff . ?

d3_1.JPG
 
That's what I have. In the past I have always ended up just a little off on my alignment. My usual remedy was a little pie slice to bend the pipe just enough. After I installed the flex pipe I realized that wouldn't be an issue anymore.

Exhaust routing is one thing that has held me back from doing the K5 tank in the crewcab (is it crewcab or crew cab or crew-cab). I figured it would probably just have to exit in front of the rear tire, but with a crewcab long bed that's not as bad as with a regular cab. Last time I was on a trail with him, @ktmoutfront seat burner exhaust is so loud you can't follow him and hear yourself think.

I will also have to put a smaller muffler in; the gigantic Flowmaster big block muffler doesn't give me enough room to bend the pipe around a K5 tank.
 
Bent77 said:
SO been really looking and thinking about the exhaust:

1) I need to replace the pipe all the way back. Aside from selling the first born, anyone have a good idea for a "kit" that would get the fumes out from under and still miss the tank in the back and the shocks?
Click to expand...
A stainless builder kit from summit has worked well for me, several times. Add a flex coupler(s) as close to the merge collectors as is reasonable. Vibrant v-bands are my preferred, because they have an alignment ring. Also, v-bands are cool. Other than that, rubber isolators and 3/8” rod is all you need.

Building a custom exhaust can be a lot of fun. Time consuming, but fun.

David
 
I bought a Dynomax header back dual exhaust from summit for my old k20. It fit good, no complaints other than the kit came with cheap clamps. It was 2.25” pipe fwiw.


@Bent77 :cool:
 
Bowtie85 said:
I bought a Dynomax header back dual exhaust from summit for my old k20. It fit good, no complaints other than the kit came with cheap clamps. It was 2.25” pipe fwiw.


@Bent77 :cool:
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My problem is the 205’is clocked up and the tank is behind the axle now.

Looks like a box of bends is in my future
 
my Y-pipe to single 3" on the driver side cleared my clocked doubler 203/205 just fine . :D then i dumped it just infront of the rear tire . but i will be moving this to the back and the muffler back a bit further . as its under my seat right now and has some droan in the cab .
 
sweetk30 said:
my Y-pipe to single 3" on the driver side cleared my clocked doubler 203/205 just fine . :D then i dumped it just infront of the rear tire . but i will be moving this to the back and the muffler back a bit further . as its under my seat right now and has some droan in the cab .
Click to expand...
I also have the high pinion, that cross over isn’t looking good
 
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