CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
I believe I stand corrected. Couldn’t see any casting numbers on the side of the block, but did find the casting number for the left side exhaust manifold. Looked it up and it is the part number for a 350 exhaust manifold. So that should clear things up. It’s a 350 under the hood. Not quite as exciting as a small block 400 or 454, but still a good motor. It performs very well, and only has 105,000 miles on it. Here are the engine bay photos:

3435D751-47C3-4C26-9D14-8B7C4DD0B71B.jpeg 7378E091-7F09-41DC-B070-60135234CF8A.jpeg 94418281-60CA-41BC-9A05-ACA908F064F8.jpeg
 
I believe I stand corrected. Couldn’t see any casting numbers on the side of the block, but did find the casting number for the left side exhaust manifold. Looked it up and it is the part number for a 350 exhaust manifold. So that should clear things up. It’s a 350 under the hood. Not quite as exciting as a small block 400 or 454, but still a good motor. It performs very well, and only has 105,000 miles on it. Here are the engine bay photos:

View attachment 309279 View attachment 309280 View attachment 309281


Honestly, In stock form the Tbi 350 is far superior to the 400 Sbc anyways .
 
Honestly, In stock form the Tbi 350 is far superior to the 400 Sbc anyways .

It performs surprisingly well. I had thoughts about converting it to diesel at some point in the future, but after towing with it I was almost converted myself.
 
It performs surprisingly well. I had thoughts about converting it to diesel at some point in the future, but after towing with it I was almost converted myself.

Na this rig is too nice and original, only original once remember, to do major swaps like that.

Drive it and enjoy it as is.
 
Been doing some electrical upgrades recently. The starter is going bad. It’ll get replaced soon. The alternator also died which killed the battery. So I replaced both with an Optima Bluetop and a 105amp Napa alternator. I had installed a 140amp Powermaster first, but it was making a loud whining noise and got piping hot fast. I didn’t have time to get with PM as I needed this rig ready for a road trip, so I just put in the 105amp and will return the PM via Amazon. While I was at it, I built all new battery cables.

ACAF3495-DBEE-4B4E-9ACB-625D9D798A99.jpeg
6AA8C668-24C2-4471-BA86-5A50A22CFCE3.jpeg
D1141518-29E4-4DD8-B065-A683740C5289.jpeg
 
So my wife’s burb has this issue where it will stall out when at very low RPMs - doesn’t happen all the time, but mostly when shifting into reverse gear. This morning it happened as she was pulling into a parking space at the store. Cranks right back up.

Has anyone ever heard of or encountered this with a 350 gasser before? Tbi
 
I’m thinking vacuum lines. Found this cracked one. I don’t have any extra so I’ll get some tomorrow and see what happens

4F729C85-1683-4358-BC19-2E38F4572558.jpegE9D2263D-70FD-44E0-AD45-DA8FAD0DB1E3.jpeg
 
Can anyone tell me what part this canister is? What is it called? I figure while I’m replacing the vacuum lines I’d go ahead and replace this as well.

9FADBA6C-2C8D-4E60-9335-9BAA697AD059.jpeg
 
Perhaps I got lucky and it was those vacuum hoses. Haven’t had any issues yet on this trip, though I have been very cautious shifting in and out of reverse. Still, the truck is definitely showing it’s age.
 
Spoke too soon. Truck died on us while sitting at a red light. Cranked right up though and kept going.
 
In similar fashion to how I’ve been doing updates on my diesel burb, here’s a photo dump of the work I’ve been doing on my wife’s truck.

The running boards absorb about 4-5” of ground clearance which makes it impossible to get under this 2wd without putting it on jackstands, which I flat out dislike. Those got pulled, and are for sale if anyone is interested in them. For 32YO running boards, they are in near perfect shape.

589C8641-54CB-4183-A1BC-DEF109852E48.jpegA9D27633-3862-45F7-946F-263D3DA8C854.jpeg80DDA638-D85A-4DF5-BA61-FC94D3D1A6F8.jpeg3B824227-BD56-4217-BED4-3952D7C8A702.jpeg

Andy
 
Next on the list is of work finished is a complete rebuild of the front and rear suspension. In the front, everything that had a bushings got replaced. New upper control arms with new ball joints and bump stops, new lower ball joint, new lower control arm shafts and bushings, all new steering linkage: pitman arm, drive arm, tie rod ends, and adjustment sleeves, and new bushings for the sway bar.

I also replaced the coil springs, which was a bit of a gamble. When I discovered the rear leaf packs were the exact same 56” dimensions as 1 ton C30s, I did not hesitate to order those. I wanted the front to match as well, so I also ordered 1 ton C30 coil springs. I lost that gamble, as the coil springs, although they fit, were so stiff that that I lost ALL down travel in the front suspension, but gained 5” of lift. I’m not opposed to 5” of lift, but only if done the right way. This was not it, so the 1 ton coils were pulled and replaced with more appropriate 3/4 ton suburban coils. Those 1 ton coils are also for sale to anyone interested, but you’ll need to contact me quickly because I’ll likely be returning them to the manufacturer today.

The rear leaf packs fit fine, double the number of leaves in the pack, and certainly give the burb that “1 ton” high booty stance. Luckily, I can pull a leaf or two if we don’t like this.

2D27153D-88FC-4159-8C81-4725CFAF7C9F.jpegDA214EEE-8009-428E-917D-7EF8AE36ED8C.jpeg40C63533-7FC2-41ED-B8F7-D261E6E5F036.jpegB0F993BA-9A93-4551-B3C2-B33DF0CA2D23.jpeg23DB2C42-7649-4D01-974F-A85B163C8EC6.jpeg424A2883-49BD-421C-B787-C7A0F8348832.jpeg42F08D24-55BD-488B-B77D-D5F9AB000B1F.jpegEB8D5732-A75A-4D07-83BF-24252681D4E5.jpeg1D51E0D5-3453-45A1-8355-FE8685317634.jpegD114C94F-57B3-4FE4-B6E2-E75CF3673CAF.jpeg529071FD-7196-49BB-A2C1-37FCCF3443A5.jpegA2004974-803A-4A60-9547-C31EA4094765.jpegA37D3C18-F818-4CD9-965A-307CDD63B3B9.jpegFE9E3AFA-EE46-41D5-9298-CEB5674A42AF.jpeg36EA5119-787D-4F89-8754-EEA535EE0D69.jpeg5347BD82-6AA1-4B96-A646-D27203E298B2.jpegF8766462-5B90-4A4E-806A-C69A3EE0FA9C.jpeg

Andy
 
The average increase in ride height is somewhere around 3” at all four corners. I can live with that. And I can now completely roll under the truck on my Craftsman creeper without having to put the truck on jackstands. Much safer. My wife is also please with the taller ride height. She hates being low to the ground. This also should make for a much more stable road handling.

Here are some before and after shots.

32006C38-89AE-4949-AD69-C26ED8D32389.jpegC210A2E4-7E7B-4302-B145-EEFA33B447DD.jpeg46F4987B-A469-4E5A-B7DD-0893258D3FFA.jpegDD0CF841-B485-4488-82E8-383BAEA185C2.jpeg84B5759A-45CC-44FE-96FF-D9EA49B21788.jpegD22D5E89-D59A-4CE7-9B43-836D7A7FAC22.jpeg5872797D-4CE9-40D9-A4F5-3A7A7A2DF9C8.jpeg

Andy
 
I did those rear springs all in one day, by myself, in the Florida heat and humidity. @AgDieseler and I have a regular weather contest and he generally wins on heat while I generally win on humidity. Needless to say, I’m feeling it today, so am taking the day off to recuperate.

When I get back to it, the brakes need to be bled and the front end is in a desperate need of an alignment. I’ll align as best I can in the driveway, then will likely take it to an alignment shop for a professional dialing-in.

Before that though, the exhaust is getting completely redone from the Y-pipe back, deleting the catalytic converter and resonator, and replacing with a single 3” pipe, Magnaflow muffler, and 3” Walker tailpipe.

D6B7564F-71EB-4026-91A3-ED69C6FB56C6.jpeg

Then I need to turn my attention to the fading, flaking, peeling paint on the hood, cowl, and tailgate. I don’t have the time, trust, funds, or decision points to take it to a local body shop to have the whole truck repainted, so for now I’ll handle it myself with my trusty rattle can methods. Some may squeal at that idea, but I’ve actually developed a lot of skill with the rattle can and am only painting the hood and cowl for now, to slow down the process and buy myself some time to find the right shop to do the whole job. And, I’m using POR-15 Top Coat, which is a really solid paint and has held up well on the inner fenders of my diesel burb. The color choice will either be between silver or white. I love the look of the POR-15 White, but their silver is a slap-me-in-the-face spittin-image perfect match to the existing silver two tone, so there’s a strong likelihood that I’ll be going with that color, for better blendability.

05843837-7DA2-4FB7-973A-C43DD0C8F4F3.jpeg28A570CB-9D20-4B7D-AA7F-D358B37BD6C3.jpegFF4E7EC2-7FA3-44E0-AA78-E9CF24C809B0.jpeg3856500A-F07C-4E24-AB29-7F9F66FDC301.jpeg8E6C6AB7-35B2-40B8-A73A-096CFAC0107D.jpeg

Andy
 
Last edited:
And lastly, I discovered the upper window tracts for the rear tailgate have a significant weather leak and allow a steady stream of water into the rear cargo area, soaking the floor and carpet padding. Immediately upon discovery, I stripped the rear and trashed the padding. I’ll leave it bare until I can get the tracts resealed. I figure this way at least the steel floor can dry out better. And I still have the intermittent stalling issue to figure out. Thanks to some guidance from @The_Tomato and some other guys, I believe I’ve narrowed this down to either fuel filter, IAC, or both.

F1217251-4085-4F59-AB1D-8BB45CDA506F.jpeg04ED4C72-BE24-4DA7-A0DD-14663410F8B9.jpeg6866DF28-C3D4-43ED-B002-3D71147824C0.jpeg

Andy
 
Top Bottom