CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The Brandy Build

A build taking a faded, rusty, 1988 k5 and transforming it into a more or less restored, 1974 full convertible.
9BCF45BF-84C4-4C1E-8761-7AFB1D0FABDF.jpeg
Well exhaust was a no go today. The driver side manifold dumps too close to the motor mount. Not sure why but it’s not that close on the passenger side. I thought it might be a problem but hoped the exhaust guys could make something work. Oh well, that’s what I get for trying to cheap out with manifolds. I’ll go ahead and order long tube headers I suppose. Any of you bought some that you like that fit well?
 
Ordered some headers and some patch panels for around rear the wheel arches. I wanted to pick up the full panels but the freight cost is $100 per panel which is more than the panels themselves. So I’ll use the smaller patches and make do. I’m also working on designing the rocker boxes since I’m doing the full top conversion. I want to keep it simple and use square tubing. I’m thinking maybe 2x4. I did a really rough mock-up in “sketchup” and wanted to get some of your guys opinions. Again really rough and not to scale. The grey is the floor pan/rockers and the black would be the rocker boxes.
509A47C9-0018-4A90-B57C-EA7FAC718E17.jpegEF508EC9-EA9E-4189-A63F-1ADF7EEFDB5D.jpegE35CC7D2-5A1A-483D-AB44-52A2CA79B619.jpeg
I’m thinking steel plate to sandwich the floor, tubing welded to that and also welded to the body supports. It will go from as high up towards the firewall as I can get it and all the way back to where the floor kicks up for the bed. I can also use the plate in the back on the inside as a base for the roll bar. I want to keep it tucked up close to the floor. I could also put it more towards the inside and below the cab supports. Opinions? Would this be effective in reducing/eliminating firewall movement with the top off?
 
Can’t say for positive. When I cut the rocker boxes off my 72 K5, I tried to tie in with angle iron as far back as I could and brought it back under the pedals
 
Can’t say for positive. When I cut the rocker boxes off my 72 K5, I tried to tie in with angle iron as far back as I could and brought it back under the pedals
Did it seem to do the job? I’m under the impression that it doesn’t take that much to meet the same specs as the factory boxes, maybe I’m wrong.
 
That factory box is actually doing quite a bit of work. Essentially bridging from the base of the firewall back past the doors enough to keep that stable. At one point it was really common for first gen guys to have a long discussion about this before taking the top off
 
That factory box is actually doing quite a bit of work. Essentially bridging from the base of the firewall back past the doors enough to keep that stable. At one point it was really common for first gen guys to have a long discussion about this before taking the top off
Right, sorry I worded that badly, I guess I meant it doesn’t seem like it would take much to match the strength and rigidity of the original. I could be wrong, never dealt with them before.
 
I got a set of headers, miraculously they fit with no issues.
FDF55DA1-EAEF-4AA2-8639-EC42944D4A7E.jpeg
I was worried because I have pretty much everything that could hit a set of headers, front driveshaft, big starter, long spark plugs, clutch linkage, but they clear all that stuff. And I have to admit they look way cooler than the manifolds. So back to the exhaust shop sometime this week, maybe Tuesday. Going to go ahead and pick up some steel to build the rocker boxes. I want to build them before I hack the top off.
 
I got one rocker “box” all cut.
98EC135D-BC07-4478-820E-27A9672DA99E.jpeg
I’ll tack it up tomorrow and make sure it fits right before I burn it in. Really simple design, I think it will do the job nicely. The tubing is 3/16 wall and the plate is 1/4
 
Are you wanting any lift? I would do a 1" body lift with as much as you have it torn apart. Make sure your tires don't rub.

What was the reasoning behind switching from the TBI to a carburetor, on such a stock engine?

Cool rig, I am impressed with the work.

Also, have you ever driven a full convertible Blazer? I always wanted one. Till I had one. I would go drive someones before diving into cutting your roof off. I FAR prefer the half top Blazers now.

Martin
 
Are you wanting any lift? I would do a 1" body lift with as much as you have it torn apart. Make sure your tires don't rub.

What was the reasoning behind switching from the TBI to a carburetor, on such a stock engine?

Cool rig, I am impressed with the work.

Also, have you ever driven a full convertible Blazer? I always wanted one. Till I had one. I would go drive someones before diving into cutting your roof off. I FAR prefer the half top Blazers now.

Martin
Thanks. And as of now I’m not planning any lift. I already put in all new body mounts so if I were to do a lift it would be suspension at this point but I really like how it sits now. it looks like my tires might clear but if they don’t I’ll go down to 31s most likely. The main reason for the carb was a lot of the tbi wiring was a mess and some wires were cut for some reason. It ran pretty good but I couldn’t stand the thought of putting that dirty engine back in without rebuilding it and I really didn’t want to deal with the mess of wires. although I know tbi is more efficient, I have no doubt the carb will do what I need it to do. Plus I liked the idea of relying on electronics and sensors as little as possible. Lastly a carb is more period correct for what the truck will end up being. I know plenty of people think it’s stupid to go to a carb but it just made the most sense to me. I’ve never driven a full convertible K5 although I’ve owned a few jeeps which I feel would be a pretty similar experience. I’d love to hear your reasons why you prefer the half tops. Is it a noise thing?
 
If you do a body lift, you still use the same body mounts. The reason I like the 1" body lift is because they are not obvious like a 2" or 3", plus I prefer the steel pucks, to the plastic ones.

Martin
 
Noise, sunlight, rattles, etc.

Martin
Makes sense, I figured it would be more noisy. I still think the positives outweigh the negatives in my mind, time will tell I suppose. If I regret it I’ll remember you saying this lol.
 
If you do a body lift, you still use the same body mounts. The reason I like the 1" body lift is because they are not obvious like a 2" or 3", plus I prefer the steel pucks, to the plastic ones.

Martin
I agree any more than 1” on a body lift just doesn’t look right. I’ll have to wait and see how well the tires clear when it drives a little more and I guess I’ll make my decision from there.
 
Second one done, need to get more gas and a new helmet tomorrow, current helmet doesn’t get dark enough anymore for some reason and it’s pretty crappy anyway.
4681EC77-93CB-4FD5-9B88-1A2C8AF86251.jpeg
I got all the patch panels I need to fix the rust around the wheel arches in today, probably start on that this weekend. I wanted to get the exhaust done this week but i never got a chance to take it in because of rain so I’ll probably have to do it early next week.
 
Last edited:
Got this done over the weekend:
435068D1-9AD5-45B7-9EAB-5203D6BB6F9B.jpegA0EF3D1C-02C1-4FED-9EE7-CD5A2E70D57F.jpeg
although I know I can fix it with body filler, I’m not super happy with the seams. Sheet metal sucks and I’m apparently not very good at welding it in. I’m sure it takes a lot of practice. I was going to finish the other side tonight but I ran out of gas again. I’ll have to pick more up tomorrow. 25863DBA-2EA4-4593-ACCB-88F04D8FC7D0.jpeg
when I get this side finished I think I’m allowed to call it rust free without stretching the truth too much. The rocker boxes are welded up but I took the plate to a metal fab shop to have them drill out all the holes for me. I think drilling 32 holes through 1/4” is a little more than I can handle. I’m not real concerned about the exhaust at the moment. I’ll get it done when the stars align but I’m tired of trying to schedule around the weather and I have plenty of sheet metal work to do in the mean time.
 
Got this done over the weekend:
View attachment 372490View attachment 372488
although I know I can fix it with body filler, I’m not super happy with the seams. Sheet metal sucks and I’m apparently not very good at welding it in. I’m sure it takes a lot of practice. I was going to finish the other side tonight but I ran out of gas again. I’ll have to pick more up tomorrow. View attachment 372489
when I get this side finished I think I’m allowed to call it rust free without stretching the truth too much. The rocker boxes are welded up but I took the plate to a metal fab shop to have them drill out all the holes for me. I think drilling 32 holes through 1/4” is a little more than I can handle. I’m not real concerned about the exhaust at the moment. I’ll get it done when the stars align but I’m tired of trying to schedule around the weather and I have plenty of sheet metal work to do in the mean time.
Looking good, If the panel is straight it should turn out good. The previous owner of mine fixed his with 22 gauge steel riveted over the top and covered in 1/2 in of bondo, lol. It took me most of a day to excavate that stuff with the wire wheel
 
Looking good, If the panel is straight it should turn out good. The previous owner of mine fixed his with 22 gauge steel riveted over the top and covered in 1/2 in of bondo, lol. It took me most of a day to excavate that stuff with the wire wheel
Lol previous owner work never ceases to surprise me.
 
I got the other side finished, still not thrilled with it but it should be good enough. No more rust anyway. A565A1EA-85A5-4C49-8BFF-6E888AF64083.jpeg
I got the plate back from the fab shop today, really glad I didn’t have to drill these out. 7F2BCF8D-BC85-426F-8350-8DC6E28B26DC.jpeg
Should be able to finish the rocker boxes this weekend.
 
Ok I didn’t have much time to work on the blazer the past week and a half but I got the rocker “boxes” done.
5A3F1493-DDA2-44FF-A64D-A9CA5A4BE84A.jpeg2F687CF4-26BA-4745-8ECE-2AEFD3C0C29E.jpeg28412836-0865-4BB6-97CF-330AEB6B5C92.jpeg9C2EF724-6913-4090-BFB0-23E542AACCEF.jpeg
Time will tell if they’ll do what they are made for but I’m pretty confident they will. I like the simple design, the fact that they won’t trap dirt and water and that they’re removable. I need to dig into the last bit of wiring on this thing and also get a throttle setup. But I also really want to do the top conversion and now that the boxes are done I can do that so that might be what I dig into next. I might start on that this weekend.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom