Just because I like measuring things. I'm curious to see what absolute pressure it's running at idle. That side of the gauge will be more useful than the 15-30psig range that the other gauge had.
CK5
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Just because I like measuring things. I'm curious to see what absolute pressure it's running at idle. That side of the gauge will be more useful than the 15-30psig range that the other gauge had.
Ordered!
Also installed one new rear spring & block tonight. Baby steps, baby steps.
Nobody wants pictures of a truck with one lonely new spring installed. But here you go, Mr. Nobody.
The tire is a smidge further back than before.
New spring vs. old spring. Very similar heights on this side, but the other rear spring is the saggy one. Also, the new spring has a steeper curve on the right side (left side matches pretty well).
And the 3" EZ rides for the front.
I set the three springs on the ground and jumped up and down on them to measure spring rate. According to my calibrated bouncing technique, the new and old stock rears have a similar initial spring rate, but the fronts are quite a bit stiffer. This seems backwards to me, given the weight distribution of a loaded Suburban. And these are the "softest kit springs available. "
Also, the front and rear bushings are different sizes, so I won't be able to put it in backwards. The back had no obvious indicator.
On the back, I did buy the softest 1/2-ton 5+1 leaf springs in the GSKC catalog, reasoning that if I overshot the proper spring rate I would have plenty of spare leaves lying around to add later (or airbags). Didn't notice until I pulled it apart that this used to be a 4+1 rear leaf truck.
Had some shop time today. Installed the other rear spring. Tried installing a front spring but found my 4.5" bolt is too short for my front hanger. 
I'll head back to Fastenal on Monday. In the mean time I pulled out the sway bar and burned out the old bushings.
It's pretty obvious that I'll need longer brake hoses. Anybody know offhand what factory application would have had a hose ~3" longer than stock?
Still on the hunt for a 5-speed tranny, but I have almost everything else I need for the drivetrain. We've kept the mailman busier than normal.
I'll head back to Fastenal on Monday. In the mean time I pulled out the sway bar and burned out the old bushings.
It's pretty obvious that I'll need longer brake hoses. Anybody know offhand what factory application would have had a hose ~3" longer than stock?
Still on the hunt for a 5-speed tranny, but I have almost everything else I need for the drivetrain. We've kept the mailman busier than normal.
I've heard the same thing. Heck, I may have mine still from my 2wd set up. Let me see if I can find one and measure it.
Looks like a match. 4" longer and the same 10MM & 3/8" ends. Thanks for saving me some catalog time, I was gonna start with the G-series vans.
I wanna say the 90's Rams also work for lifted squarebodies.
Next question...why does the front axle pinion get its own bump stop? I can see that the negative arched springs would push the pinion slightly upward during compression, but I can't see how this affects anything in real life. The rear has the opposite effect without causing issues. 
I'm thinking I'll ignore it when I adjust the other 2.
I'm thinking I'll ignore it when I adjust the other 2.
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I read in a service manual long ago,that the late '73 and up 4x4's got the extra rubber bump stop added at the pinion, because some trucks had the starter whacked by the front shaft,knocking it off the engine in some cases..
I think they added another bump stop to the passenger side spring towards the shackle end then too,for the same reason,in addition to the two in the center of the spring mounted to the frame bracket..
The front springs in my truck are sagging badly enough that the rubber bump stop at the pinion is so close I cant even put my finger between it and the diff housing..the other stops are as close too,and it bottoms out easily on a good bump..you can feel the impact when it hits the rubber stops..
I think they added another bump stop to the passenger side spring towards the shackle end then too,for the same reason,in addition to the two in the center of the spring mounted to the frame bracket..
The front springs in my truck are sagging badly enough that the rubber bump stop at the pinion is so close I cant even put my finger between it and the diff housing..the other stops are as close too,and it bottoms out easily on a good bump..you can feel the impact when it hits the rubber stops..
That makes sense. I don't think I'll have that problem since I'm gaining several inches of clearance at the front. But I'll be sure to watch that during initial articulation.
These springs weren't as sagged as yours, but my stepside's springs are one finger-width away from hitting.
That was a defining part of last year's offroading trip, and it was a lot more fun this time in the army truck. It has several finger-widths of clearance and the stiffer 3-leaf front pack. It may not have been as soft 30 years ago, but it's a much softer ride today.
I also noticed my front drive shaft's slip yoke is about bottomed out on the splines due to the sagging springs--I'm hoping that disturbing "CLUNK" I hear when it bottoms out isn't the slip yoke running out of travel,and trying to punch a hole the transfer case !..
..
Hopefully the bump stops bottom out before that can happen..but I'm not sure if that shaft is original,someone may have put a slightly longer one in it before I got the truck..
..Hopefully the bump stops bottom out before that can happen..but I'm not sure if that shaft is original,someone may have put a slightly longer one in it before I got the truck..
I finished bolting down the front spring today, thanks to Fastenal. They didn't stock a 5.5"x9/16" Grade 8 bolt, so I used a 5" bolt instead. Turned out to be perfect length. The lopsided springs accentuate the slope that the truck is parked on. I'm not sure if there's a name for this sort of stance. But if not, I'll dub this the Yooper lean.
Shiny hardware.
The stock shock is clearly too short, as is the brake line.
Pictures of the rear. High side:
Low side:
The more I crawl under this truck, the more I see the previous owner's fake paint peeling off. Hindsight is always 20/20, but this truck has definitely not been a winner of the vehicle lottery. I bought a lot less than I realized at the time.
Turns out this truck is a typical rust bucket all over the underside. I made that hole appear by bumping it with my hand.
One more spring and I'll be moving on to shocks.
Shiny hardware.
The stock shock is clearly too short, as is the brake line.
Pictures of the rear. High side:
Low side:
The more I crawl under this truck, the more I see the previous owner's fake paint peeling off. Hindsight is always 20/20, but this truck has definitely not been a winner of the vehicle lottery. I bought a lot less than I realized at the time.
Turns out this truck is a typical rust bucket all over the underside. I made that hole appear by bumping it with my hand.
One more spring and I'll be moving on to shocks.
I have motor mounts, front upper shock mounts, and shorter rear shocks coming in a few days.
For shock mounts I am using the Dorman shock mounts (stock for an 87-93 F250/F350). This cheap aftermarket support has gotta be the absolute best part of Ford's crummy stamped sheet metal frame hangers. Now I can run crummy sheet metal hangers, too!
For shocks I'm going with the MX6096 from the MX-6 line. 27.5-17.8 inches rather than the 35-20.5 that I have now. It was set to bottom out right as the bump stop engaged, and I do not want to tear up the shock mounts again. I went with the MX-6 instead of the 5125 because I'm intrigued by the adjustable valving. I still think the longer Bilsteins will fit in the front, but it's going to be cramped on the passenger side due to running A/C and the turbocharger just above that mount. We'll see how it turns out.
For shock mounts I am using the Dorman shock mounts (stock for an 87-93 F250/F350). This cheap aftermarket support has gotta be the absolute best part of Ford's crummy stamped sheet metal frame hangers. Now I can run crummy sheet metal hangers, too!
For shocks I'm going with the MX6096 from the MX-6 line. 27.5-17.8 inches rather than the 35-20.5 that I have now. It was set to bottom out right as the bump stop engaged, and I do not want to tear up the shock mounts again. I went with the MX-6 instead of the 5125 because I'm intrigued by the adjustable valving. I still think the longer Bilsteins will fit in the front, but it's going to be cramped on the passenger side due to running A/C and the turbocharger just above that mount. We'll see how it turns out.
My parts list has been whittled down piece by piece. I need to check my gasket supply, order brake lines, and track down a CDR valve. Somehow Rockauto does not have this item listed in their catalog.
Then I'll be ready to pull the engine for new seals and turbine installation.
Bump stops and the ORD steering brace are also in the queue.
Then I'll be ready to pull the engine for new seals and turbine installation.
Bump stops and the ORD steering brace are also in the queue.
10 weeks until the snow flies!
(Ok, I'm just guessing, but everyone needs a time-bounded goal to get stuff done.)
(Ok, I'm just guessing, but everyone needs a time-bounded goal to get stuff done.)
Hah...yeah...good luck finding them. I bought one of the last ones RockAuto had in 2007 or so. There were no aftermarket 6.2L CDR valves so you have to find a NOS ACDelco part or make something else fit. I think I've heard of guys changing to a 6.5L valve cover and using a 6.5L CDR...never looked into it though....and track down a CDR valve. Somehow Rockauto does not have this item listed in their catalog.
An equivalent military CDR valve isn't hard to find, but I'm not sure what my geometry is going to look like when I'm done mounting the turbine. The CDR output lines, at the very least, will be changing.
Clicky.
