What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The Great Smaug

Overview Gallery Discussion
campfire said:
@Russell, @Stomis, I've read stories of people struggling to bleed out the stock internal slave cylinder from the top end. But my aftermarket slave has a normal bleeder on the second leg. So it should bleed out just like the SM465 slave, right? Is there something I'm missing? :dunno:
Click to expand...

You'll never get it from the bottom. The bottom is a great way to get it full of fluid but fully getting it bled requires the speed bleeder from the top. The most important thing to remember is not to pump the pedal. Open the bleeder, push the pedal (make sure it goes fully down! if you hit the clutch start switch before the master bottoms out you will have air forever!) down, hold it down, close the bleeder.

Also you'll be doing yourself a huge huge favor by getting a $70 wilwood universal master in the correct bore. It has a bleed at the end of the piston and makes bleeding the clutch just like bleeding brakes, easy peezy.
 
Stomis said:
You'll never get it from the bottom. The bottom is a great way to get it full of fluid but fully getting it bled requires the speed bleeder from the top. The most important thing to remember is not to pump the pedal. Open the bleeder, push the pedal (make sure it goes fully down! if you hit the clutch start switch before the master bottoms out you will have air forever!) down, hold it down, close the bleeder.

Also you'll be doing yourself a huge huge favor by getting a $70 wilwood universal master in the correct bore. It has a bleed at the end of the piston and makes bleeding the clutch just like bleeding brakes, easy peezy.
Click to expand...

I can't just use my vacuum bleeder, I need to push the pedal?
 
I've used engine vacuum to bleed stubborn clutch masters and brakes too,alone...works better than a hand pump,its constant suction instead of intermittent...
 
Your 6.2 has no vacuum pump I assume then..(pump may not work as good as the constant vacuum from a gas engine)..
You must own at least one gas powered vehicle you can use ?..
 
Man points update...I did not get the engine out tonight. In fact, it's a little dubious whether my Hazard Fraught hoist will be long enough to do this properly. But I will be trying soon. The engine & tranny are free of all wires, tubes, and mounts except the rear tranny mount.

One piece at a time...
 
diesel4me said:
Your 6.2 has no vacuum pump I assume then..(pump may not work as good as the constant vacuum from a gas engine)..
You must own at least one gas powered vehicle you can use ?..
Click to expand...

Fair 'nuff, I could use the TinyCar as a portable vacuum cleaner. I don't think I'd want to run brake fluid into the diaphram pump that comes with the 6.2. It doesn't have a good place for the oil to drain.

I've seen people use a hand pump from the top, or just a piece of tubing (siphon-style). Over and over again I read about bleeding from the top, and how bleeding the bottom just doesn't work. So I get to learn a new skill here. :)
 
To avoid sucking brake fluid in the other engine via the vacuum hose (which would be unlikely to harm anything,just make white smoke),you can use a glass or thick plastic empty jar with two holes poked in the lid,and a length of clear vinyl tubing....make the holes a tad smaller so the hose will fit tight in the lid-- and put the hose from the engine side in the lid about 1",and run the rest of the other hose going to the bleeder, down thru the other hole,to the bottom of the jar,and put enough brake fluid in the jar to cover that hose..

You can use vise grips as an on-off switch by clamping the hose coming off the engine..
Now to get brake fluid in the engine,you'd have to fill the whole jar up--and you can see the air bubbles getting sucked into the jar...

A long length of vinyl tubing with 3/16 inside diameter fits most bleeders good and lets you see the bubbles,and its cheap,you can get 25 feet for about $6 at Lowes or similar stores..

I have a few of the similar "jars" my mom used when she was on oxogen,I used the jar and the tubing it comes with ,it was practically a ready made version of what I just described..

This works slick to bleed brakes alone..
 
I've always had the best luck in bleeding the clutch before installing the trans. I bleed them by disconnecting the clutch hose from the master, putting the end in a jar of brake fluid sitting above the height of the slave and manually cycling the slave cylinder by hand until no more air comes out. I then pump the master until it starts to gravity bleed and hook it up. When you install the trans and the slave cylinder is pushed in, the fluid in the hose will push the last of the air up and into the master cylinder. I've never had any issues with the pedal doing it this way.
 
Man points update #2: My plan had a few snags. :doah:

Suffice it to say that the engine is out, it took much longer than I had thought, and today turned into a family day instead of a truck day.

So back to normal, I guess. :rolleyes:
 
The ATF was brown, so it's not just a TV cable issue. The P.O. cut a number of corners, and I found a new way after I started looking at the 3-bolt torque converter. 3 bolts. :doah: :doah: That does help explain why it never would stall, but I don't think it explains the lack of T/C lockup.

The engine compartment is nice and open now.

:popcorn:
 
In addition to getting sidetracked a bunch in recent days, the build hit another major snag tonight. I dropped the pan and found the sterotypical cracked web. :doah:

Just one, and in the common spot where the cap bolt threads into the reduced portion of the web.

IMGP6484 - Copy.JPG


Couple closeups.


IMGP6480.JPG
IMGP6483.JPG




The interwebz are full of conflicting info about these cracks, so I'm going to take some time to overthink this. Stud girdles don't address the inherit weakness here (stress concentrations with too large a bolt in too weak a space), nor do they make the metal whole again.

:thinking:
 
Last edited:
Sorry Ethan, seems like vehicle things haven't turned around for you yet. I'll keep up my R&D on this end.
 
What would be nice if someone could whip up a full on bed-plate for 6.2/6.5’s. It’d be way overkill but you’d have a stout bottom end afterwards.
 
GWeakland620 said:
@78K30 amd I were talking about this one near me. Would be a good donor. You could recoup a lot of the money in parts around your neck of the woods. I'm sure we could find a way to get it up to you. Just a thought.

https://stjoseph.craigslist.org/pts/d/1995-chevy/6351743735.html
Click to expand...

That's a looooong ways away from where I'm at.

For that kind of money I'd be better off with something like this:

https://greenbay.craigslist.org/cto/d/96-turbo-diesel/6332358595.html

Or some more rational options (though less local):

https://wausau.craigslist.org/pts/d/62-gm-diesel-engines/6350824478.html
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/d/65-diesel-engine/6327973751.html
 
Main webs cracks suck. Sad to say that engine's toast because there's no way of knowing how long it'll last being cracked. Could last 200,000 miles or 2.

That being said I think the 96 burb would be an awesome upgrade for you. Those ride great and are still stupid easy to fix.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom