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The Great Smaug

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I pushed out the MX-6 upper sleeve and bushing, replacing them with the properly sized bushing from one of the extra 5125s. Presto-chango, I now have a 9/16" sleeve on the bottom and a standard 5/8" bushing on the top. Not sure why it came with the oddball sleeve size, but it works to my advantage this time (kind of, since I do actually have 9/16" lower shock mounts). If I had known all this ahead of time I would have just bought new bushings.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I expect much success in the next few days. :deal:
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This is all I have to say to that...

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Greg, here is yesterday's progress. I laid out my plywood flooring and assembled my cherry picker and engine stand. Finished playing with my shock bushings and started playing with the NV3500. The input shaft wiggles, so a backyard rebuild is in order.

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campfire said:
@AgDieseler, I know there has to be a story here...
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I think I remember the original driver rear upper shock bolt cracking a tack weld, which allowed the shock to extend and hit the underside of the floor. It rubbed a flat spot until I noticed (heard) it and repaired it.

In summary: college budget.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
I think I remember the original driver rear upper shock bolt cracking a tack weld, which allowed the shock to extend and hit the underside of the floor. It rubbed a flat spot until I noticed (heard) it and repaired it.

In summary: college budget.

David
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So let me get this straight... I'm reusing shocks that even a college budget wouldn't use?


:doah: :haha:
 
The repair was "college budget". I ran them for 10 years after, so I feel pretty good about them holding together for you. Pop in new bushings and grab some spare fuel line and hit the trail.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
The repair was "college budget". I ran them for 10 years after, so I feel pretty good about them holding together for you. Pop in new bushings and grab some spare fuel line and hit the trail.

David
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Ten years, eh? They don't seem particularly worn out yet. I guess I'll find out after bolting them up. I'm only using two of them, so neither of the "fixed" ones are going on the truck at this time.

As for fuel line... last week I also popped a rusty brake line on the TinyCar.

So now I'm planning on replacing both on this rig. Too much rust and too much risk to ignore it.
 
Just about every manual transmission I've had out of a vehicle (and at the junkyard) has some play in the input shaft...the pilot bushing keeps it centered..yours may not need a rebuild..but I guess now would be the time to do it if you feel it needs it..
 
diesel4me said:
Just about every manual transmission I've had out of a vehicle (and at the junkyard) has some play in the input shaft...the pilot bushing keeps it centered..yours may not need a rebuild..but I guess now would be the time to do it if you feel it needs it..
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The NV4500 didn't have play. :dunno:

I've spun it over by hand. Shifting is perfect, and every gear rotates correctly. There is an intermittent screeching sound when it starts spinning, but that could well be the rust on the outside surface.

I won the transmission lottery last time, but that doesn't mean I will do so twice. :dunno:
 
Yesterday I didn't do much. Pulled all the connections off the top side of the engine, and spent a little bit of time underneath plotting and scheming. I definitely miss the removable tranny hump, that was very handy last time.

Mentally flipping coins over whether to pull the engine first, drop the tranny first, or try hoisting both at once. Bell housing bolts would be more fun on the ground. :thinking:
 
I'm going to cast my vote for pulling the assembly. Unless you have a tranny jack to use...:whistle:
 
GWeakland620 said:
I'm going to cast my vote for pulling the assembly. Unless you have a tranny jack to use...:whistle:
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Honestly, I completely forgot that was an option. :doah:

If I had thought of it I probably would have pulled it out last night instead of heading inside so early. Motivation has always been my biggest problem. I should be motivated by the looming winter, it gets less fun each week from here on out.

Time to earn some man points this weekend, eh?

:popcorn:
 
I swapped engines in a few GM 4x4's without pulling the tranny,and it wasn't a lot of fun sitting on a wood plank laid across the fenders,struggling to get at the bell housing bolts..
That truck had a one piece floor,no tunnel you could unbolt..
My hands looked like I stuck them in a chipper by the time that swap was over..

My '77 GMC 4x4 had a 3" body lift--that one was much easier,I was able to couple 2 extra long extensions to my ratchet and sit behind the transfer case and unscrew the bell bolts much easier..I think that truck had a removeable tunnel,but I didn't take it off,didn't have to..

The last truck I pulled the engine out of ,I decided to drop the transfer case first,and pull the engine & tranny out together as a unit..I felt that way was the easiest...

If I had to pull another engine out,I probably wouldn't--I'd pay someone else to do it,its not worth the level of pain I'd be in trying to attempt it alone any more..either that or I'd have someone help me take the nose off the truck,its much easier once the nose is out of the way..
 
@diesel4me, the shifting is crisp and smooth, so it doesn't "feel" like a worn transmission. I'll hafta play around with it again. If I hafta rebuild it, it's going to be a while before this comes back together again.
 
@Russell, @Stomis, I've read stories of people struggling to bleed out the stock internal slave cylinder from the top end. But my aftermarket slave has a normal bleeder on the second leg. So it should bleed out just like the SM465 slave, right? Is there something I'm missing? :dunno:
 
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