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The Green Grendel

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82355 said:
Say what???????

Martin
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If, magically, there was a trimmed-out Blazer with the same engine/tranny/axle combination and all the creature comforts that this rig lacks, I would be willing to trade. I know that such rigs don't actually exist, but that won't stop me from dreaming...
 
Still on the road, still running like a top. My rearmost driver-side injector overflow line started leaking when the weather warmed up. Leaked bad enough to undercoat the rig back to the axle and also generated a small smoke cloud tailing the rig down the road. I would not have wanted to handle such a leak on a gasser. :eek1:

I replaced the offending overflow line & rearmost cap, and the problem ceased. The passenger side still has a slight drip, as does the filler neck. After 2 tanks' worth of driving, I have pulled ~16.5MPG both times. This is lower than I want, but I can't complain given the 3 fuel leaks.

I ordered a new blower switch today, so by summertime I may have functioning heat in this thing. ;)

I pulled out Big Blue a couple weeks back, and the tired motor + more anemic gearing makes quite a difference. Not sure what that means, but the difference has been noted.

33s would be an improvement from a gearing standpoint. Even 35s would still give it more gearing than the K10.
 
Blower switch installed. Temp is up to 30* today, so I don't really need it anymore. ;)

Anybody have advice on the weird alternator lights? As of this morning I now see no test cycle from the second alt light. Not sure if I bumped it while reinstalling the bezel or if I have an actual problem. I'll poke around with the voltmeter and see what I find.
 
Voltmeter reads 14.2V on the front battery and 14.8V on the rear. So it's not a charging problem (if anything, 14.8V is on the high side). Bulb checks out, it just stopped lighting. Any ideas? :1zhelp:
 
That's just my go to answer when electrical problems arise. Grounds first. Then check everything else.

:dunno:

Kinda thought you also wanted to know I was still watching your thread.
 
Justin V said:
That's just my go to answer when electrical problems arise. Grounds first. Then check everything else.

:dunno:

Kinda thought you also wanted to know I was still watching your thread.
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That is neat. You are the only person to reply, and I've asked about that light 3 times now. So good on ya fer that. :bow:

Now I need a better answer from someone who knows the 24V CUCV system better than I do. :haha:
 
82355 said:
I can't understand why anyone keeps the stupid 24 volt system.

Martin
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2 reasons. The truck came that way, so there's not as much motivation to change things unless it breaks.

And it has a significantly higher cranking speed. That makes winter starting more fun. After running it for a while, I'm less interested in swapping back to 12 now. Firing right up in the wintertime is a nice bonus for a DD.
 
I kept Big Ugly 24v because my stuff worked.

Now, as soon as any of it died I was going to convert to 12v. Probably with civilian parts too.
 
campfire said:
That was my plan, too. I already converted the GP circuit. But the fast cranking is causing me to rethink my plan for the starter. :thinking:
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I had two big batteries in my '89 civvy K5 and it cranked right over as soon as the GP's were warm.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
I had two big batteries in my '89 civvy K5 and it cranked right over as soon as the GP's were warm.
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Yeah, it's not a deal breaker for me. But if it's only a minor thing I'll never get around to rewiring the thing.

For all the cranking speed gain, my Suburban fires off sooner than the CUCV, so speed isn't everything...
 
Yeah i have both 12v and 24v and both fire right off but the 12v seams to struggle more if everything is not just right, but both work well down here in the hot south, if I was in a colder climate I would probably prefer the 24v starter, I do prefer the military glow plug system (which is 12v by the way) over the civilian setup but this may be because I have used the military more and the new cards you can get from antennaclimber on the military truck forum.
 
Csm Davis said:
Yeah i have both 12v and 24v and both fire right off but the 12v seams to struggle more if everything is not just right, but both work well down here in the hot south, if I was in a colder climate I would probably prefer the 24v starter, I do prefer the military glow plug system (which is 12v by the way) over the civilian setup but this may be because I have used the military more and the new cards you can get from antennaclimber on the military truck forum.
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What I don't like is having 24V fed through the resister bank on the firewall, as the voltage starts to rise with every failed plug. My "mod" was bypassing the resister and pulling GP power directly off of the 12V bus. All of my rigs have manual GP switches. I'm happy enough with them that I may not bother going back to an automatic controller. Particularly since I use slow plugs (60G/Duraterm), I'd hafta mod the time tables to get decent starts out of them anyways.
 
Yeah the military even bypassed the resistors in most of the cucv's. Think a lot of guys are using 60g's with the military cards without problems. The new cards i spoke of earlier has a provision for a manual button and LED's for trouble shooting, you can even pick how your wait light functions,flashing or solid.
 
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