I'm not convinced a trac bar is your fix. Plenty of people have straight axle trucks without trac bars. And plenty of people have sfa swapped truck without them. Something is loose or worn out. Or out of adjustment.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
The Green Machine - parked
- Thread starter noJeepshere
- Start date
I agree, a track bar isn't the answer.
What kind of shape are your kingpins in? The only time I've had death wobble issues on my trail truck was when it was first put together and I tightened the set-screw on the steering arms while it was up on the jackstands.
After setting the weight of the truck on it they had some play again and needed to be tightened up some more.
So I'd start there.
What kind of shape are your kingpins in? The only time I've had death wobble issues on my trail truck was when it was first put together and I tightened the set-screw on the steering arms while it was up on the jackstands.
After setting the weight of the truck on it they had some play again and needed to be tightened up some more.
So I'd start there.
Good point, the set screws were tightened while the axle was on stands, now that it has weight on it they might be out of adjustment. I'll check it out tomorrow if I can.
If that's the case I can almost guarantee you they need to be tighter. I think I tightened them until I felt some drag turning the knuckle side to side up on the jackstand....but like I said that wasn't sufficient.
After a couple miles I had major death wobble when slowing down.
With all the weight on the front end I backed the jam nut off and could turn the set screw by hand.
My king pins are of the non-adjustable kind, so no dice there. I found out today the rotors are warped, so with that and the wrong master cylinder and no steering stabilizer, I guess I'll live with it for a bit. Steering stabilizer first, then master, then new rotors.
Checking your king pins is free dude. I highly doubt your mechanic touched them, looking at the caps. Order a rebuild kit for a future vacation job 
I saw them apart, but I'll get a rebuild kit just for good measure.Checking your king pins is free dude. I highly doubt your mechanic touched them, looking at the caps. Order a rebuild kit for a future vacation job
Warped rotors have nothing to do with it. "wrong" master cylinder has nothing to do with it.
Death wobble does not happen when you are braking. So the braking system has nothing to do with it.
Death wobble does not happen when you are braking. So the braking system has nothing to do with it.
Installed some ORD zero rate add-a-leaves to bring up the rear, didn't quite make it sit a touch higher than the front, dang.
Gonna need some new u-bolts...
Gonna need some new u-bolts...
Longer shackle in the rear...or are you still running tension shackles?
I would run those u-bolts.
Martin
Martin
The zero rate brings the rear real close to where it needs to be but that front axle seems a hair too far forward and its throwing me off, otherwise still loving what you did to the truck!
ORD shackle flip. Stephen recommends not going any longer than a 4" shackle as the leaf end will stick out too much and can hang up on obstacles.
I know right? It's bugging me too. ORD claim their kit pushes the axle forward one inch compared to stock, but it honestly looks more like 3" to me. Would it be feasible to drill new centering holes in the perch on the axledge to push it back? Or is that just a bad idea? Another train of thought I had was to swap to stock chevy springs, put the zero rate up front, then put a 1-1/2" block in the back.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I like it as is myself.
The u-bolts look fine to me.
Are you against trimming the front bumper? My guess is that the tires are going to hit when you flex it, and if you move the axle back, will you hit on the rear? I am thinking about the axle moving backwards during compression along with turning. I'm just putting some ideas out there.
The inside U bolt looks fine, the outside one I'd probably replace. What I've read about is that in general you want full thread engagement - at least 1 thread coming out the other side for full strength. They're relatively cheap for some piece of mind.
I'll take some pictures of clearances at full lock when I get home later on.
