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The Green Machine - parked

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Has your front end settled down now or still harsh? I ended up pulling out one of my front leafs from my BDS softride springs and it really did help. Mine was just a little too springy up front. Much better now and didn't really drop too much. Just an idea.
 
jeff in co said:
Has your front end settled down now or still harsh? I ended up pulling out one of my front leafs from my BDS softride springs and it really did help. Mine was just a little too springy up front. Much better now and didn't really drop too much. Just an idea.
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I might end up doing this, they have settled some, but the front end is still bouncy, and still sits higher than the rear.
 
Slight issue... since the transfer swap, whenever I'm in low range, the ecu doesn't know it's in low range, so it tries to shift at the typical high range points. In other words, left in drive in low range, I effectively only have 1st gear, but I can manually shift it into 2nd. How would I fix that, so that the computer knows when my truck is in low range?
 
noJeepshere said:
Slight issue... since the transfer swap, whenever I'm in low range, the ecu doesn't know it's in low range, so it tries to shift at the typical high range points. In other words, left in drive in low range, I effectively only have 1st gear, but I can manually shift it into 2nd. How would I fix that, so that the computer knows when my truck is in low range?
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Stick shift swap? :thinking:


:haha:
 
:haha: That is something I have considered for many years, the hole in the trans tunnel is there, as is all the bracketry. :thinking:
 
My line of thinking is that a highway truck should have a manual and an off-road one should have an auto. Since this is becoming an off-road truck I'll stick to the auto, so I need to sort this one out.
 
I had this issue on my Colorado. Usually a pin on the ecm needs to be grounded when it's in 4 low so it knows. Just need to figure out which pin and figure out a switch to put on the shifter.
 
Cili said:
I had this issue on my Colorado. Usually a pin on the ecm needs to be grounded when it's in 4 low so it knows. Just need to figure out which pin and figure out a switch to put on the shifter.
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Agree, but I wonder why it's having a problem AFTER the T-case swap? I'm wondering if a connector is damaged.
 
Cili said:
I had this issue on my Colorado. Usually a pin on the ecm needs to be grounded when it's in 4 low so it knows. Just need to figure out which pin and figure out a switch to put on the shifter.
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Does your 241 not have the switch already built in? I know on our older cases we have a 2-wire plug coming out the top. It is used to illuminate the light on the dash, but I would think it could be easily repurposed. Is this not what GM used from the factory? :dunno:
 
campfire said:
Does your 241 not have the switch already built in? I know on our older cases we have a 2-wire plug coming out the top. It is used to illuminate the light on the dash, but I would think it could be easily repurposed. Is this not what GM used from the factory? :dunno:
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Well I'm not sure honestly. I didn't look into it that far. I was on a time crunch when I did this and haven't looked back at it. Now that you say that there probably is One. Although it doesn't apply to me much Bc the truck always stays in low range.
 
Thanks for the input, I'm going to look at this tomorrow because on Saturday I'm going up high in the mountains to find a Christmas tree and I need 4lo during the hunt. I'll let you know what I find.
 
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Yep. Typically a ground to the ecm. Should be a connector down yonder for the it on the t case. Not sure how the old stuff works with the electric shift cases, but on the new stuff the body control module plays a role in the sending of the ground to the ecm. So if that's the case you might need to just find which pin is supposed to be grounded and just bypass whatever stops the ground might make on the way to the computer.
 

In temps less than 40f it becomes difficult to start, the colder the worse it gets. Bumping the key momentarily, waiting a few seconds then cranking until it runs doesn't help. Sensors are all good, battery is good, no real reason that I can see for it to not want to run. Once the motor is warmed, it'll run beautifully all day, regardless of the outside temp.

The knocking sound you hear once the engine is running is piston slop, at least that's what my mechanic tells me. It's done that for years so I'm not terribly worried about it. The sleeves in the cylinders have become slightly oval shaped, but in temps above 50 and once the motor has warmed up whatever the weather, the noise goes away.
 
It sounds like it is initially firing on just a few cylinders, taking several seconds to get the rest of them firing. Have you checked plugs & wires recently? How aged (mileage) is the engine? If you know you have oval cylinder bores (& worn-out piston rings), you might be seeing low compression on a cylinder or two. Then, as the engine warms up and the rings expand, the blow-by is sealed off and smooth running returns. This is pretty much what my DD does when it's cold out.

If you have worn injectors (squirting a stream of fuel instead of a mist), it will be hard to vaporize the fuel, and performance will suffer. This will be most noticeable when the intake is cold.

I'm sure there are other possibilities, but those are the first that jump to mind.
 
The motor is original with 232k on the clock, plugs and wires are new within the last year. It has been a while since I ran some seafoam through the tank, I'll give that a try.
 
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