Not entirely sure. We just have a starting point.What trail?
David
Not entirely sure. We just have a starting point.What trail?
It varies by hub, but ballpark 3/16-1/4 overall. It’s not a super precise target.The hubs need to be turned down like .125 or something right?
There’s a Dorman number on the NWF site. Different for Ford and Chevy.What length studs are you running?
Always hydro; always one ton masters. Pedal is super linear on my suburban, and we’ll see how the 99 does.Have you played with booster and master cylinders to get the pedal feel right or always gone hydro?
Night and day.Looks like it’s a huge upgrade
I would expect there is a precise number if you index off of the machined inner bearing surface. But that would require making a tool first.It varies by hub, but ballpark 3/16-1/4 overall. It’s not a super precise target.
I remember an hour brake upgrade for thoseI want to do a big brake kit but for a d44/10 bolt. Haven’t done a ton of research but there has to be something.
Minimum17" rims?
You only need the rotor to slip past the wheel flange, so a ballpark figure will work for this. Interestingly, the first ~.050” are just taking the roughness out of the edge of the wheel mounting flange.I would expect there is a precise number if you index off of the machined inner bearing surface.
Yessir. Tight fit.17" rims?
I thought you were machining the wheel mounting face down to move the rotor inboard, machining down the OD for clearance makes more sense.You only need the rotor to slip past the wheel flange, so a ballpark figure will work for this. Interestingly, the first ~.050” are just taking the roughness out of the edge of the wheel mounting flange.
The trip was good. The truck did great. One shock repair halfway through, and that's all it needed.So…?