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The Loaner - ‘99 ORD SAS

Mucho grande.

14.25 vs 12.5, and the NWF brackets are way nicer than the Torq ones I used on the suburban.

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And for later reference, the seal PN for a D50 TTB hub.

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David
 
I’ve been wanting to do that brake upgrade for a while now. Looks like it’s a huge upgrade. The hubs need to be turned down like .125 or something right? What length studs are you running? Have you played with booster and master cylinders to get the pedal feel right or always gone hydro?
 
The hubs need to be turned down like .125 or something right?
It varies by hub, but ballpark 3/16-1/4 overall. It’s not a super precise target.

What length studs are you running?
There’s a Dorman number on the NWF site. Different for Ford and Chevy.

Have you played with booster and master cylinders to get the pedal feel right or always gone hydro?
Always hydro; always one ton masters. Pedal is super linear on my suburban, and we’ll see how the 99 does.

Looks like it’s a huge upgrade
Night and day.

David
 
It varies by hub, but ballpark 3/16-1/4 overall. It’s not a super precise target.
I would expect there is a precise number if you index off of the machined inner bearing surface. But that would require making a tool first.
 
I want to do a big brake kit but for a d44/10 bolt. Haven’t done a ton of research but there has to be something.
 
I would expect there is a precise number if you index off of the machined inner bearing surface.
You only need the rotor to slip past the wheel flange, so a ballpark figure will work for this. Interestingly, the first ~.050” are just taking the roughness out of the edge of the wheel mounting flange.

I’ve never heard of someone doing it, but one could mount these bearing hubs back on without the rotors, put it in front wheel drive while on the jack stands, and use a grinder to clearance for the rotor hats.

One could, but a lathe is not a hard thing to find.

17" rims?
Yessir. Tight fit.

David
 
You only need the rotor to slip past the wheel flange, so a ballpark figure will work for this. Interestingly, the first ~.050” are just taking the roughness out of the edge of the wheel mounting flange.
I thought you were machining the wheel mounting face down to move the rotor inboard, machining down the OD for clearance makes more sense.
 
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