Getting better *I think*
CK5
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Done for the night. This is as far as I got. Three things I’ve learned the hard way not to do:
1: Don’t rush your work.
2: Don’t work when you’re tired
3: Don’t work in the dark.
So it’s time to pack it in for the night. Pretty confident I’ll get the rest of the sound deadener in tomorrow and *hope* to have the new headliner in too, but if not, I still have Saturday.
Andy
1: Don’t rush your work.
2: Don’t work when you’re tired
3: Don’t work in the dark.
So it’s time to pack it in for the night. Pretty confident I’ll get the rest of the sound deadener in tomorrow and *hope* to have the new headliner in too, but if not, I still have Saturday.
Andy
Great progress! I may have missed it but what brand of insulation did you use? I also got a laugh out of your working in the dark rule, sadly it seems that's about the only time I have to get things done.
It’s Noico. Had pretty good reviews on Amazon and was affordable. Pretty good results so far. Doing some video tests as I go along and will post up when I’m done.
Yeah that 3rd rule is the one that gets bent and broken the most. But I had reached my limit yesterday so turned it in. Shoulders are definitely feeling it this morning.
Decided to make a quick trip to Lowe’s to step up my torch game. With a controlled flame of course, don’t want to get carried away.
I'll have to check that out, I'll be doing my burb at some point also so I'm watching this with interest!
Do you have one of these? Not sure how much heat you need but much less of a fire risk
Do you have one of these? Not sure how much heat you need but much less of a fire risk
No I don’t but probably would be a good idea. I’m using precaution though. Barely have the flame on, just enough to to warm the glue to help with adhesion, but not too much that I damage the sheet metal. That would really suck. Like a lot. About to knock out the last section, just in front of the rear AC. I changed some methods for the back half of the truck to make it a little easier. Will post up some pictures in a bit.
So on the front of the truck, I would try to cover as much of the field as possible and get as close to the edges as I could. My guess is that resulted in a coverage of probably close to 90%.
When I got to the back of the truck, as you can see from some of the photos from the front, getting into the ribs was rather difficult and so for the back half of the truck, I skiped the ribs and applied only in between. I figure by my calculations this still gives me at least a 70% coverage like @AgDieseler recommended.
Not sure if you can see it in this photo, but to help with heat dissipation, I would tile my work.
Now I’ll just have to tape off the seams and this phase of the project is done!
Andy
When I got to the back of the truck, as you can see from some of the photos from the front, getting into the ribs was rather difficult and so for the back half of the truck, I skiped the ribs and applied only in between. I figure by my calculations this still gives me at least a 70% coverage like @AgDieseler recommended.
Not sure if you can see it in this photo, but to help with heat dissipation, I would tile my work.
Now I’ll just have to tape off the seams and this phase of the project is done!
Andy
All done.
It was probably unnecessary to tape the seams, but it was recommended, and I felt like it gave the project its finishing touch, so there ya go.
The headliner goes in next. Will basically work my way backwards starting with the rear half. Going to have to cut out space in the vinyl for the rear AC (abs board already has a cut out for it). The front will need to have the same holes cut out for the overhead console, neither the vinyl or the abs board has it, but I’ll be using the old headliner as a template. If the weather holds out, this might get done today.
New speakers going in tomorrow to replace the old original paper ones.
Andy
It was probably unnecessary to tape the seams, but it was recommended, and I felt like it gave the project its finishing touch, so there ya go.
The headliner goes in next. Will basically work my way backwards starting with the rear half. Going to have to cut out space in the vinyl for the rear AC (abs board already has a cut out for it). The front will need to have the same holes cut out for the overhead console, neither the vinyl or the abs board has it, but I’ll be using the old headliner as a template. If the weather holds out, this might get done today.
New speakers going in tomorrow to replace the old original paper ones.
Andy
Rusty is feeling left out. Not to worry, I have a whole nother box of deadener to use on her later on.
Lesson #4: Don’t work in the rain.
Forecast doesn’t show this letting up any, so my day is probably cut short.
I do, however, have the headliners ready to install, so this should be a relatively quick process whenever I’m able to get back to it.
Andy
Forecast doesn’t show this letting up any, so my day is probably cut short.
I do, however, have the headliners ready to install, so this should be a relatively quick process whenever I’m able to get back to it.
Andy
The headliner is finally in!
I’ll say this, it was a lot harder to put in then it was to take out. But it’s done, looks good, sound deadening material is doing a fantastic job ( I have three test of videos that I’ll get uploaded later on, going to try to blend them all into one video).
Replaced the front and rear speakers as well because after 30 years the original ones tend to wear out.
I wanted to make sure that each screw for the instrument bezel went back into its original location, because as I have worked on Rusty, I have always had problems with the screws fitting right because of them not being in their original location. Cardboard helped out with this plan very well.
All in all, this was a fun project. Took me three days, the truck was very easy to work on, and this was a good practice for when I get around to doing the exact same thing for Rusty, and learned some things along the way as well.
Y’all have a good night.
Andy
I’ll say this, it was a lot harder to put in then it was to take out. But it’s done, looks good, sound deadening material is doing a fantastic job ( I have three test of videos that I’ll get uploaded later on, going to try to blend them all into one video).
Replaced the front and rear speakers as well because after 30 years the original ones tend to wear out.
I wanted to make sure that each screw for the instrument bezel went back into its original location, because as I have worked on Rusty, I have always had problems with the screws fitting right because of them not being in their original location. Cardboard helped out with this plan very well.
All in all, this was a fun project. Took me three days, the truck was very easy to work on, and this was a good practice for when I get around to doing the exact same thing for Rusty, and learned some things along the way as well.
Y’all have a good night.
Andy
So far I’m very pleased. The videos I took show a significant reduction in noise. I’ll try to get those up tomorrow. We drove it around town tonight and I could really tell a difference in noise level, and that’s coming from a truck that already isn’t that loud, at least compared to mine. I’ll be putting the same stuff on mine eventually.
Forgot to say thank you earlier. The encouragemt this site provides is what keeps me going.
You're welcome! The end result is fantastic, much better than the old push pin setup
I appreciate it. Yes, it is a big improvement. Looking forward to my truck getting the same treatment. PO claimed the back half was dynomat, but the more I learn about this stuff the more I think it’s a cheap knock off and not actual dynomat.
Super clean work. Nicely done.
David
David
Thank you. It was a very interesting project. I’m always intrigued in doing work I’ve never done before, but I did my best to keep the work clean since it was already a super clean truck.
Here is the video I promised y’all. I’m sure some of you already have experience with this stuff, but I was really fascinated by the impact it had.
Going to take a couple weeks off. This week is all about the honey-doos. Next week will be half spent in Disney World then hopefully knocking out my father-in-law’s headlight upgrade on his GMT-400.
Once we are past that, it’s back to working on Rusty, tackling the following immediate to-do list:
1. Reseal valve covers
2. Replace coolant crossover pipe
3. Fix or replace power steering pump
4. Replace harmonic balancer
Once that list is done, Rusty will get the same treatment as the 89 did, with the same headliner and sound deadener (best part about this is that it’s all free). I imagine there will be more work involved to remove prior PO work, but that’s expected.
After that, it’s all about the d60. Need to get that done and behind me. Lots of parts to save up for though. After I’m past that, will be tackling the following long-term to-do list:
1. Fine tuning the suspension aka tossing my springs for ORD springs (maybe, maybe).
2. Patch a rust spot in the front pass. floor pan and install some much needed flooring. Floor is currently bare metal. So it’s LOUD.
3. Then at some point will be looking for a donor to rob 4 doors and a tailgate from.
Hope to mix in some small welding projects and some body work too.
IF I get all of that accomplished, that will probably make for a full year’s work.
Then in 2020, I’ll probably be looking at some gearing upgrades and getting back to 37s. BB2020??
I can’t sleep. Can you tell?
If I have repeated any of this from prior posts, forgive me. I have to keep rehearsing this stuff to myself in order to stay focused and motivated.
Here’s to 2019 goals.
Andy
Going to take a couple weeks off. This week is all about the honey-doos. Next week will be half spent in Disney World then hopefully knocking out my father-in-law’s headlight upgrade on his GMT-400.
Once we are past that, it’s back to working on Rusty, tackling the following immediate to-do list:
1. Reseal valve covers
2. Replace coolant crossover pipe
3. Fix or replace power steering pump
4. Replace harmonic balancer
Once that list is done, Rusty will get the same treatment as the 89 did, with the same headliner and sound deadener (best part about this is that it’s all free). I imagine there will be more work involved to remove prior PO work, but that’s expected.
After that, it’s all about the d60. Need to get that done and behind me. Lots of parts to save up for though. After I’m past that, will be tackling the following long-term to-do list:
1. Fine tuning the suspension aka tossing my springs for ORD springs (maybe, maybe).
2. Patch a rust spot in the front pass. floor pan and install some much needed flooring. Floor is currently bare metal. So it’s LOUD.
3. Then at some point will be looking for a donor to rob 4 doors and a tailgate from.
Hope to mix in some small welding projects and some body work too.
IF I get all of that accomplished, that will probably make for a full year’s work.
Then in 2020, I’ll probably be looking at some gearing upgrades and getting back to 37s. BB2020??
I can’t sleep. Can you tell?
If I have repeated any of this from prior posts, forgive me. I have to keep rehearsing this stuff to myself in order to stay focused and motivated.
Here’s to 2019 goals.
Andy
Can anyone tell me what the 4 digit code is that identifies the socket style of the parking lights and side marker lights on a 93 GMT-400? Trying to nail down parts for my father-in-law’s truck.
Was able to find the information elsewhere. Sharing here in case anyone finds it helpful:
Low Beam headlight 9006
High Beam Headlight 9005
Front Side Marker 194
Parking Light 2357
If incorrect, feel free to post up.
