When did I do that? If you’re referring to the discussion we had about the EPR solenoid, that’s still sitting on the bench. Haven’t figured yet if I need it still or not.
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When did I do that? If you’re referring to the discussion we had about the EPR solenoid, that’s still sitting on the bench. Haven’t figured yet if I need it still or not.
Chuck it. I thought we had all made that point clear. I'd chuck the actual EPR valve, too. It sits between the driver-side exhaust manifold and its exhaust pipe. It was only used to choke off exhaust flow to force extra exhaust up to the EGR valve during cold starts. It has no function if EGR is deleted.
I’ll check it out. You probably did make it clear, I just have so many things going on in my head that I missed it.
Looking into this now. It’s pretty crusty. And I’m not finding any info on how to remove it. Looks like I unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold then remove EPR and reconnect pipe ... am I on the right track? (Probably not).
Also, hope to be dropping the oil pan today to install the new gasket. Is it as simple as it sounds, or what should I be expecting as I get into this?
Looking into this now. It’s pretty crusty. And I’m not finding any info on how to remove it. Looks like I unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold then remove EPR and reconnect pipe ... am I on the right track? (Probably not).
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Yes, but your pipe is then an inch shorter than before. This may or may not cause clearance issues.
What's the bung for?
It's worthwhile to stick a new exhaust gasket in there. Looks like a stock 6.2 manifold that uses a 1.75" gasket before necking up to 2" and then 2.25" pipe. But your pipe is obviously modified, so I'd measure it before buying gaskets.
Exhaust temp sensor. PO addition. Seems to work fairly well, although the weld is not that great.
It would be that simple if the front of the pan wasn't prone to hitting the crossmember. It's doable while the engine front is tilted upward, but it's tighter than it looks.
Just watch the oil pump sump and you'll be fine. I have pictures of how it works in my blazer thread.
It's a good time to check the block for cracks, too. '96 is close to when they switched the main cap bolt size, so maybe your block isn't prone to cracking. For the rest of us it's a good thing to check.
What range of temperatures do you see on your gauge?
Yeah I have been thinking about that (the cracks) and anticipating it. Will definitely inspect once I get it off. Would love to paint it and make it look nice (since it’s got some surface rust) but I think for the sake of time I’m just going to put it back on.
What would the new main bolt size be that I’d be looking for?
Less than 1,000*. Average I think is around 700*, but it’s been a few months since I’ve driven it so I don’t really remember. Just that it’s not high at all.
Ethan about what page are the picture on? You’ve only got about 1,000 more posts in there than I do. Lol
Ethan about what page are the picture on? You’ve only got about 1,000 more posts in there than I do. Lol
Umm...well...I don't know. That's what the search button is for.
The easy answer (for me) is to have you read the whole thing...
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I don't know. I read that the bolt size decreased, but I don't know whether the head size changed, nor do I remember exactly when. I do know that it was significantly after my trucks were made ('83, '84, '86, and '93). Since you're not removing the bolts, I wouldn't worry about it. It's not like you can change anything regardless of which style you have.
Umm...well...I don't know. That's what the search button is for.
The easy answer (for me) is to have you read the whole thing...
Start here, or the page before it.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-green-grendel.322496/page-15
Ethan about what page are the picture on? You’ve only got about 1,000 more posts in there than I do. Lol
No worries. That truck is gone, and the thread is done. You have plenty of time to catch up. At the rate you're going, you'll pass that thread before the year ends.
Umm...well...I don't know. That's what the search button is for.
The easy answer (for me) is to have you read the whole thing...
I probably read it in my spare time ....
Fair point. If I am crack free, I’m happee.
Perhaps I will strike some luck and won’t have to lift my engine up to get the pan out. That sounds way more involved that I want to get ....
No worries. That truck is gone, and the thread is done. You have plenty of time to catch up. At the rate you're going, you'll pass that thread before the year ends.
That’s my goal.
This year is looking very promising to “finishing” this truck and being able to go exploring. By finished I mean: functional four wheel drive, most rot removed and replaced, and a relatively decent and comfortable interior.
You won't need to hoist your engine off the mounts. I just meant it's easier when the back is hanging down a bit.
I'm not a fast mechanic, but I spent three hours changing my pan, which is roughly on par with an injection pump swap. And that was with no tranny and no front driveshaft.
Bah. You don't need any of those things to go exploring. Decent, comfortable, and rustless is NOT the description of my Blazer. At all.
Adventure is out there!
Well, I’ll probably take even longer than that, because I decided to paint it after all...
Just seemed like a prudent thing to do while I had it out. Oh well.
