The RedBurb

[campfire]

Guess what broke again...

View attachment 295047

Upper AC Compressor support bracket...

Anyone got a spare I can buy off of you??? Need it pretty quick ....

Actually...I do.

I have the stock setup from my 1984 Suburban, with A/C compressor on the driver side (early 6.5 trucks had A/C and alternator positions swapped). I don't know whether I'll ever use it again (it's not necessary in our climate), but it looks like a match for your setup.

But you can reweld that bracket much faster than I can mail a replacement part...eh?

 

[AugustDiesel]

Actually...I do.

I have the stock setup from my 1984 Suburban, with A/C compressor on the driver side (early 6.5 trucks had A/C and alternator positions swapped). I don't know whether I'll ever use it again (it's not necessary in our climate), but it looks like a match for your setup.

But you can reweld that bracket much faster than I can mail a replacement part...eh?

Going to PM you. You’re right, I can reweld it, but it’s been welded once already. At this point, I figure it is a good idea to have a back up.

 

[AugustDiesel]

And, my quest to ditch my epr valve failed when a bolt broke off in the manifold ....



Isn’t there a way to keep the valve open permanently?

 

[imiceman44]

And, my quest to ditch my epr valve failed when a bolt broke off in the manifold ....

View attachment 295052

Isn’t there a way to keep the valve open permanently?

Yes there is.
It's easier than removing it

 

[campfire]

And, my quest to ditch my epr valve failed when a bolt broke off in the manifold ....

View attachment 295052

Isn’t there a way to keep the valve open permanently?

The valve is always open unless vacuum is applied to the cylinder. But the shaft and butterfly are still blocking a portion of the cross-section.

You can take the butterfly out of the tube if you prefer. But with a stud broken off you're already committed to removing the valve. Why bother putting it back on?

 

[AugustDiesel]

The valve is always open unless vacuum is applied to the cylinder. But the shaft and butterfly are still blocking a portion of the cross-section.

You can take the butterfly out of the tube if you prefer. But with a stud broken off you're already committed to removing the valve. Why bother putting it back on?

In a moment of frustration I decided to just put it back together and figured I would revisit it after next weekend’s trip, or later this week.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Well I fixed it. First time I’ve welded anything other than a single practice run. It looks like crap, I know. But, for a first time weld, I feel pretty accomplished having fixed a part that I needed. I’m still going to replace it (because I don’t trust these tabs anymore) but this will let me get my truck started (hopefully) tomorrow so I can trouble shoot any issues while I wait for @campfire ‘s bracket.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Check this out ...

I figured out a way to adapt the M998 manifold to my 6.5 with a mixture of parts, creating a fully bolt on kit...



It helps to have the corresponding intake horn and gasket for the M998, then a 4 inch flexible extension tube coupled to a 4 inch K&N filter, clamped to the fender with a pipe clamp from Ace Hardware.






So what do you guys think? Any reason why this should not work? Is there anything I’m missing?

I had thought about attaching the filter directly to the end of the intake horn, but figured it would be better to get the filter as far away from the engine and exhaust manifolds as possible so as to bring in as cool of air as possible.

 

[imiceman44]

Check this out ...

I figured out a way to adapt the M998 manifold to my 6.5 with a mixture of parts, creating a fully bolt on kit...

View attachment 295234

It helps to have the corresponding intake horn and gasket for the M998, then a 4 inch flexible extension tube coupled to a 4 inch K&N filter, clamped to the fender with a pipe clamp from Ace Hardware.

View attachment 295235 View attachment 295237
View attachment 295239
View attachment 295238
View attachment 295236 View attachment 295240

So what do you guys think? Any reason why this should not work? Is there anything I’m missing?

I had thought about attaching the filter directly to the end of the intake horn, but figured it would be better to get the filter as far away from the engine and exhaust manifolds as possible so as to bring in as cool of air as possible.

That should do it

 

[bix]

Speaking of time running short, I’m at a stand still for the next couple of days:

- seal arrives tomorrow, but I need a seal puller to get the old one out, and that doesn’t arrive until Thursday (screwdriver didn’t work).

- was going to reinstall my injector lines, but I want to clean them off first and the cleaner doesn’t arrive until tomorrow.

- and I’m waiting on a 6.5 balancer now which hopefully will arrive later this week.

Not to be outdone, I moved on to a different project:

View attachment 294598
View attachment 294597

Would not make much of a difference to some people, but it makes a huge difference to me!

The door panel fabric pattern matches the seats, thats neat..

P.s things are coming along nicely, looks good.

 

[AgDieseler]

Great solution for the intake. When is first fire?

David

 

[AugustDiesel]

Great solution for the intake. When is first fire?

David

Was going to be today but looks like I’m going to be rained out. Also tracking down some hydroboost parts that I realized last night I am missing. Best case scenario: any day this week. Worst case scenario: next week at the earliest.

 

[GWeakland620]

Looks good to me!

 

[AugustDiesel]

So I feel like I dodged a bullet just now ...

And frankly, I’m kind of embarrassed to admit this even happened and am still kicking myself for it ...

Last night I discovered that when I replaced the hydroboost, I failed to to swap the output rod, return spring, and spring retainer from the old booster to the new one.

Of course, these parts are discontinued, which is probably why you have to swap them.

Did a lot of research, contacted some guys, and went hunting at the local yard.

Found these out of a 1998 Chevy 3500 ...



Wasn’t sure if they would work, but it was the only thing I could find.

Well, everything fits and I don’t think I’ll have any issues. Phew!



Everyone I’ve talked to said this kind of stuff happens to everyone who is their own mechanic.

I consider it divine providence that I was able to identify and rectify the error as quickly as I did.

 

[AugustDiesel]

And now I need some opinions ...

As the rain takes my day away, it gives me an opportunity to think, what’s to keep rain water from getting into the new air filter? It’s bolted right up against the fender, right under the seam where the hood and fender meet. There’s no weather stripping (not sure if there’s even suppose to be). Is this enough of a concern to position the filter elsewhere?

Feel free to tell me I am over thinking this ...

 

[imiceman44]

And now I need some opinions ...

As the rain takes my day away, it gives me an opportunity to think, what’s to keep rain water from getting into the new air filter? It’s bolted right up against the fender, right under the seam where the hood and fender meet. There’s no weather stripping (not sure if there’s even suppose to be). Is this enough of a concern to position the filter elsewhere?

Feel free to tell me I am over thinking this ...

View attachment 295346

As long ss it's under the hood and not in front of a big opening in the core support you're fine.
Personally I prefer enclosed filters for the reason you're worried but that also restricts the air flow some

 

[AugustDiesel]

As long ss it's under the hood and not in front of a big opening in the core support you're fine.
Personally I prefer enclosed filters for the reason you're worried but that also restricts the air flow some

Going to put a drycharger filter wrap on it just to be safe and give a little extra protection.

And peace of mind.

 

[campfire]

So I feel like I dodged a bullet just now ...

And frankly, I’m kind of embarrassed to admit this even happened and am still kicking myself for it ...

Last night I discovered that when I replaced the hydroboost, I failed to to swap the output rod, return spring, and spring retainer from the old booster to the new one.

Of course, these parts are discontinued, which is probably why you have to swap them.

Did a lot of research, contacted some guys, and went hunting at the local yard.

Found these out of a 1998 Chevy 3500 ...

View attachment 295338

Wasn’t sure if they would work, but it was the only thing I could find.

Well, everything fits and I don’t think I’ll have any issues. Phew!

View attachment 295339 View attachment 295340

Everyone I’ve talked to said this kind of stuff happens to everyone who is their own mechanic.

I consider it divine providence that I was able to identify and rectify the error as quickly as I did.

Glad it got resolved. Yes, stuff like that happens all the time. Last summer I got >150 miles away from home before I realize that I was missing an entire brake pad. You'd think I would have noticed that during my test drives. But no, I discovered that on a logging trail many miles from the nearest parts store (which didn't have those pads anyways). Did half a day of wheeling with pretty near no brakes. Felt stupid the entire time.

What you did seems like par for the course. But it's a good reminder to check parts thoroughly for compatibility. And definitely before you turn the core in!


Onward to better things!

 

[campfire]

Check this out ...

I figured out a way to adapt the M998 manifold to my 6.5 with a mixture of parts, creating a fully bolt on kit...

View attachment 295234

It helps to have the corresponding intake horn and gasket for the M998, then a 4 inch flexible extension tube coupled to a 4 inch K&N filter, clamped to the fender with a pipe clamp from Ace Hardware.

View attachment 295235 View attachment 295237
View attachment 295239
View attachment 295238
View attachment 295236 View attachment 295240

So what do you guys think? Any reason why this should not work? Is there anything I’m missing?

I had thought about attaching the filter directly to the end of the intake horn, but figured it would be better to get the filter as far away from the engine and exhaust manifolds as possible so as to bring in as cool of air as possible.

I see lots of subtle mods hidden in this engine bay.

Specifically, what are you using for a GP controller? It looks like the sensor port is both empty and unplugged.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Lots indeed. Hardly looks like the same engine bay does it?



As far as the GP controller. I ditched it completely, and installed a starter solenoid (on the driver fender for ease of maintenance) wired to a push button switch in the cab. One of those “make it work for me” mods. Very reliable.