CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
A really good bleed on two injectors should be enough to get you started and it will chug out the rest of the air. I like 1 and 3 because they’re easily accessible.

Good luck.

David
 
A really good bleed on two injectors should be enough to get you started and it will chug out the rest of the air. I like 1 and 3 because they’re easily accessible.

Good luck.

David

Your post just put me to 30 pages! I guess I’m in the big leagues now, lol.

I bled injectors 1-6, so hopefully I’ll be good to go.
 
No luck. Getting the same stuff I was getting yesterday. Even with 6 lines bled and full batteries.


Don’t really know what to do at this point
 
No luck. Getting the same stuff I was getting yesterday. Even with 6 lines bled and full batteries.


Don’t really know what to do at this point

Remember that you're overcoming several things that aren't optimal. The engine is cold. Run the plugs while cranking (sounds like the relay is clicking off early).

It's cranking kinda slowly, so patience is warranted. I'd crank it in longer bursts. Are you holding the gas pedal down? My instruction sticker says normally to crank with 1/2 throttle above freezing and full throttle below. But for bleeding out you want full throttle.

Keep trying. Once you get it running smoothly it should be back to the engine that you know and love. It just needs some time to wake up.
 
Stupid question...you tightened all the injector lines, yes?

Yes sir, and actually I did get it to fire up! Turns out the batteries were still too low. The battery tender is probably only charging one battery and the other one was probably still low. So I jumped it off of the other suburban and got it to fire up. But with the new intake modification I think I have a new normal noise to get used to. Will be loading videos shortly
 
Here it is, first fire success.


At first I was really bewildered to buy the loud thumping coming through the intake system, but after the engine had some time to warm up the thumping went away. So perhaps it’s either just extra noise from the engine having sat so long or what not I don’t know. And then there is still a little bit of oil dripping from the rear main seal the bottom half that was replaced when I did the oil pan gasket. Don’t know if I need to tighten those bolts up some more or what.
 
And then there is still a little bit of oil dripping from the rear main seal the bottom half that was replaced when I did the oil pan gasket. Don’t know if I need to tighten those bolts up some more or what.

I thought you replaced just the pan gasket? The rear main seal is nearby but separate.
 
I thought you replaced just the pan gasket? The rear main seal is nearby but separate.


I did replace it, but it’s still leaking. Actually it’s leaking out the front too ...


Maybe I should have gone with silicone instead of the gasket??

That blasted power steering pump is also leaking ...

Awesome job man!!! Such a great sound to hear. That sounds like a really good idle.

Thank you sir! I don’t think I’m out of the woods yet until I figure out these leaks, but at least it’s started and technically driveable again ...
 
I thought you replaced just the pan gasket? The rear main seal is nearby but separate.

The pan gasket came with what I’m assuming is the bottom half of the 2 piece rear main seal. But it’s leaking, you can see it oozing out.
 
The pan gasket came with what I’m assuming is the bottom half of the 2 piece rear main seal. But it’s leaking, you can see it oozing out.
That's not the rear main seal. Just an oil pan seal.
You need to unbolt the main cap to change the main seal
And when you put the half circle seal did it squish when you you bolted the pan on?
I don't know if the 6.x engines have the same problem but sbc has 2 thickness seals.
 
That's not the rear main seal. Just an oil pan seal.
You need to unbolt the main cap to change the main seal
And when you put the half circle seal did it squish when you you bolted the pan on?
I don't know if the 6.x engines have the same problem but sbc has 2 thickness seals.

See, I’m learning all the time. Can’t remember exactly, but I think it squished?

I’m about to take it for a spin around the block to see how it shifts and then I’ll park it and see if the pan bolts need tightening
 
The pan gasket came with what I’m assuming is the bottom half of the 2 piece rear main seal. But it’s leaking, you can see it oozing out.

Your block should have a one piece rear main, which can't be changed without separating the engine from the tranny.

If you did have a two piece seal, you'd be pulling the last main bearing cap and stuffing it in there. Methinks you just did the rear part of the pan gasket, which has a similar shape. So there are two leak-prone gaskets concentrically arranged for maximum headache production. :rolleyes:
 
Top Bottom