Derek Weeder
Registered Member
shop vac in the radiator will keep the coolant loss to a minimum.
CK5
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What do y’all think about these shock mounts on the 60? Should these be strengthened or replaced?
I wouldn't run single tab like that. I would add a second tab. I also think you get a stronger weld if it runs around the corner onto the ends.
**EDIT** further thoughts in next post
**EDIT** further thoughts in next post
Actually upon further thought, the tabs really should be parallel to the axle, so no I wouldn't run them at all.
I've always done mine parallel to the axle tube. I see the idea there to match the factory angle. I suppose that should work just fine. I still wouldn't recommend the single tab setup.
I am fine with whatever more experienced persons than myself recommend. Parallel makes sense. Looks like those single tabs would result in the shock stud being parallel to the axle tube.
Or, when you say the tabs should be parallel, are you referring to something more like this?
Those are the factory dodge mounts fyi, i would either cut off the ones on the current axle or shop around for a set of tabs on the correct length.
Yes it would be like that. I have had mine mounted on top of the axle tube like your single tab is, but rotated 90 degrees. I like the set DIY4x sells that overlaps between the axle tube and the inner c. I'm talking for a Dana 60.
Will using these require me to get longer shocks or will I still be able to use the Bilsteins I have?
You might have to move the top mount higher with the knuckle tabs. Its how i have mine mounted as well.
Is this where the ford shock towers I’ve read about come into play or am I not there yet?
Went ahead and placed the order for the diy4x shock tabs. Seemed like a perfect solution for a very affordable price.
You will definitely need a different upper mount than factory. Some people use ford shock towers. Ruffstuff make a weld-on kit. Some people just fab their own from scratch.
^^ what he said, i made my own hoops with a crossover bar, but i dont have as much going on in the engine compartment as you do.
For time sake I’ll probably go with the fords.
These next 12 months are going to be a big year. Planning a big road trip for next July and a lot will be getting done in these 12 months.
These next 12 months are going to be a big year. Planning a big road trip for next July and a lot will be getting done in these 12 months.
I know you already ordered the tabs. But if I were in your situation I would buy/build tabs that matched my current shock placement. Unless you need to replace them, or there's some issue with how they're mounted, I'd stick with what you have (because you know it works).
Raised shock towers work, but they aren't easier to service. You may want the extra height for long-travel monotube shocks, but it does increase the congestion. You will probably wind up hacking the inner fender to let them fit, and the A/C box limits how high the passenger-side bracket can be mounted. Rotating the axis of the lower bolt means that any rotational movement at the bottom of the shock is twisting the bushing itself rather than rotating around the bolt. Not great for a suspension that needs to actually move.
Think through the potential problems before picking a particular geometry. It's a lot easier to change things now, before you start burning metal.
I know you already ordered the tabs. But if I were in your situation I would buy/build tabs that matched my current shock placement. Unless you need to replace them, or there's some issue with how they're mounted, I'd stick with what you have (because you know it works).
Raised shock towers work, but they aren't easier to service. You may want the extra height for long-travel monotube shocks, but it does increase the congestion. You will probably wind up hacking the inner fender to let them fit, and the A/C box limits how high the passenger-side bracket can be mounted. Rotating the axis of the lower bolt means that any rotational movement at the bottom of the shock is twisting the bushing itself rather than rotating around the bolt. Not great for a suspension that needs to actually move.
Think through the potential problems before picking a particular geometry. It's a lot easier to change things now, before you start burning metal.
Very good points. I'll research this and figure out what will work best. This may not mean much, but when I installed the Bilstein 5100s, I had to cut off the lower bolt for the passenger side shock. I thought I was cutting straight but thought wrong, and just about cut the shock mount in half. We managed to weld it back together, but I kind want to replace what's there because of that. As for the inner fenders, they are toast anyways. I actually have a quasi-decent junkyard set waiting to be refreshed and installed, so ill have an opportunity later on to clearance them and make it nice, I suppose.
