CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Per my research, looks like the engine block ports on the 506 block are 1/2 NPT (which is what I thought the cooler end of the rubber hoses were). If this can be confirmed, I’ll get what I need to make full length lines from the block to the cooler.
 
Why not get something like this and not have to rebuild your lines?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2730/

It may be difficult to see in the video, but that is the exact part I am using in my attempt to adapt the hydraulic hose to the braided hose, and it leaks bad.

I’m fine building new hoses. It’s actually become one of the simpler tasks in this project. I’ve done it a number of times.
 
I'm assuming you sealed the ntp side? Sucks to have to buy stuff to make new lines, but I hear ya in regards to it being one of the easier things with your project

It may be difficult to see in the video, but that is the exact part I am using in my attempt to adapt the hydraulic hose to the braided hose, and it leaks bad.

I’m fine building new hoses. It’s actually become one of the simpler tasks in this project. I’ve done it a number of times.
 
I'm assuming you sealed the ntp side? Sucks to have to buy stuff to make new lines, but I hear ya in regards to it being one of the easier things with your project

yep. Sealed the threads on both sides. But from what I’m told, even though the threads are similar, the sealing surfaces are different between hydraulic (JIC?) and NPT.
 
yep. Sealed the threads on both sides. But from what I’m told, even though the threads are similar, the sealing surfaces are different between hydraulic (JIC?) and NPT.

Yes. Pipe threads are cut with a taper, so they get bigger the further you thread them together. This is how they seal, and why pipe dope is more like a lubricant than your typical rubber/silicone gasket used on other types of seals. You're correct in that those two oil lines are not NPT fittings. The threads will be straight (which is why they don't seal against the NPT adapter). IIRC, one side uses an inverted flare (probably standard 45-degree hardware store stuff, rather than the 37-degrees that JIC/AN fittings use), and the other side uses a barb fitting with an O-ring to seal against the aluminum hard pipe that normally attaches there. I had an extra set, but I think it got scrapped. So I'm going off of memory.

I did a similar oil cooler setup on my Suburban, and I remember threading together a stack of adapters to get the thread conversion right. Read through the 'mad thrash' section from August 2018, when the truck came together in 10 hectic days. It's one of the many things that all happened at once, so the details are a little fuzzy. I think I kept the original pipe stubs and used 45-degree brake-style flare fittings on the cooler side.
 
Yes. Pipe threads are cut with a taper, so they get bigger the further you thread them together. This is how they seal, and why pipe dope is more like a lubricant than your typical rubber/silicone gasket used on other types of seals. You're correct in that those two oil lines are not NPT fittings. The threads will be straight (which is why they don't seal against the NPT adapter). IIRC, one side uses an inverted flare (probably standard 45-degree hardware store stuff, rather than the 37-degrees that JIC/AN fittings use), and the other side uses a barb fitting with an O-ring to seal against the aluminum hard pipe that normally attaches there. I had an extra set, but I think it got scrapped. So I'm going off of memory.

I did a similar oil cooler setup on my Suburban, and I remember threading together a stack of adapters to get the thread conversion right. Read through the 'mad thrash' section from August 2018, when the truck came together in 10 hectic days. It's one of the many things that all happened at once, so the details are a little fuzzy. I think I kept the original pipe stubs and used 45-degree brake-style flare fittings on the cooler side.

Thanks for the clarification on the different thread/fitting types. Definitely helps. Some how I can’t seem to ever get away from learning things the hard way.

I searched through everything in the Great Smaug build from March 2018 - September 2018, and wasn’t able to find much of anything regarding oil cooler lines. It’s highly likely that I overlooked it somewhere.

But nonetheless. I’ll be removing the factory lines down to the block and using 1/2 NPT/ -8AN adapters at the block, and full length stainless braided lines all the way to the cooler. So long as I can get the factory fittings out of the block, shouldn’t be too challenging of a project. I’ll be saving all the factory stuff in case I ever need to revert back to the factory cooler.

With any luck, the truck will be leak free by the end of this week.
 
But nonetheless. I’ll be removing the factory lines down to the block and using 1/2 NPT/ -8AN adapters at the block, and full length stainless braided lines all the way to the cooler. So long as I can get the factory fittings out of the block, shouldn’t be too challenging of a project. I’ll be saving all the factory stuff in case I ever need to revert back to the factory cooler.

With any luck, the truck will be leak free by the end of this week.

That should also work.
 
Can you get pics of the inside of that black fitting and the end of the new hoses coming off your block if you haven't already tore everything off? I think you just might need the correct fittings to connect the two. It looks to me like the oil cooler hoses coming from the block are 1/2" male NPT pipe thread and are the ends of the new hoses 1/2" female JIC?
 
Can you get pics of the inside of that black fitting and the end of the new hoses coming off your block if you haven't already tore everything off? I think you just might need the correct fittings to connect the two. It looks to me like the oil cooler hoses coming from the block are 1/2" male NPT pipe thread and are the ends of the new hoses 1/2" female JIC?

I’ll be happy to get pictures once I get them off, but I also thought the hose ends were 1/2 NPT. I do know the black fittings are -8AN hose ends from Summit.
 
Here's some pics for future reference. I'll try to explain them decent.
First one is male NPT tapered pipe threads. It also has the shiny seat cut on the inside which makes it dual purpose. It will go into a female NPT fitting with thread sealant or it will go into the swivel style female pipe fitting in the second pic that has the domed piece in the middle to match up with the seat in the NPT fitting. Not all NPT fittings have that seat machined in them though. Third pic is standard female NPT fitting.
KIMG1254.JPG KIMG1255.JPG KIMG1256.JPG
Then a male 37 degree JIC fitting and a female one after that. There are also 45 degree stuff that looks like JIC but usually are slightly different sizes. You cannot mate a JIC female fitting up to pipe threads no matter how much thread tape or how tight you get it. I think that is what you had happen by the looks of it. Sorry to repeat if you knew this already.
KIMG1257.JPG
KIMG1258.JPG
 
Here's some pics for future reference. I'll try to explain them decent.
First one is male NPT tapered pipe threads. It also has the shiny seat cut on the inside which makes it dual purpose. It will go into a female NPT fitting with thread sealant or it will go into the swivel style female pipe fitting in the second pic that has the domed piece in the middle to match up with the seat in the NPT fitting. Not all NPT fittings have that seat machined in them though. Third pic is standard female NPT fitting.
View attachment 317502 View attachment 317503 View attachment 317504
Then a male 37 degree JIC fitting and a female one after that. There are also 45 degree stuff that looks like JIC but usually are slightly different sizes. You cannot mate a JIC female fitting up to pipe threads no matter how much thread tape or how tight you get it. I think that is what you had happen by the looks of it. Sorry to repeat if you knew this already.
View attachment 317505
View attachment 317506

Yay pictures! worth much more than words.
 
Once I pull the joined lines, I’ll separate them and post pictures so we can diagnose what happened. Yes thank you for the pictures. Definitely helps!
 
Okay so I got everything pulled apart, and thankfully it all came out pretty easy. I’ll let you guys examine them, but I can say, that after pulling the fittings from the block (which are a true 1/2 NPT) it’s obvious why the adapters I put on leaked like a stuck pig. Here are photos:

Block side of block fitting:
8352A1AC-D2B3-45A1-8BD8-8D00591ECDD4.jpeg

Hose side of block fitting: C66BEF15-A2DB-4B5D-802D-0537DB3D2F8F.jpeg


Cooler end of hose:
EA879D3C-3D99-4809-B015-35D0330CD4AE.jpeg

1/2 NPT side of adapter:
F133BEE2-5969-403F-921E-2236F4455FB2.jpeg

-8AN side of adapter:
D8F0C7CA-02B3-4334-AFA3-5A3B4D4A6063.jpeg

-8AN hose end on cooler hose “extension” that I made:
701EFDE8-F2EE-4947-B715-12D9A8C422D5.jpeg
 
And to add more good news, we finally sold my 305s and 16s to a real cool guy in a cool 77 W200. I swear, if I didn’t drive a Chevy, it would be this Dodge.

A54887DE-BDAC-4ECE-978E-BF67A76ACAEB.jpeg

My son said when he gets big, he wants me to buy him this truck!
 
I liked my old W200! too bad the electrical in mine wasn’t very good.

Wait...you had a DODGE? With electrical problems?

veT9ulr.jpg


 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom