FedEx delivers today so with any luck, I’ll get these lines built, installed, and have the truck running before the end of the day.
CK5
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The package arrived from Summit just a few minutes ago, and I am looking at the half-inch NPT adapters that I purchased and comparing them to the adapters I pulled out of the block, and there does appear to be a slight difference. From my understanding of your description and looks like what came from Summit might be the dual purpose that you reference to that should work with thread sealer, where as the original that came out of the block is not dual purpose. Am I understanding this correctly? The invoice that came with the package describes it as a 1/2 NPT JIC to -8AN adapter. Going to give it a shot and see if it leaks.
I can't tell exactly from your pics but it looks to me like the ends of the hose are inverted flare o-ring fittings like what they use on power steering hoses.
The side that came out of your block is definitely NPT plain old pipe thread so going from that straight to a -8 JIC should work good. I'll be doing the same here soon on my 6.2L but I will be keeping the factory oil cooler.
Just realized I forgot to include a picture. Here it is for reference, but the hoses have already been built and installed with success. I’ll post most about that shortly.
the factory adapter as compared to the new adapter:
Okay so here we go. Got the lines made and installed. Gave them some extra length so I would have routing options. Everything seems to work pretty good. The adapters do not leak. The 45* hose end at the block I reused, and weeps a bit in the swivel, I’ll probably take it out and put in a new one. But other than that, no leaks, and it moves!
Next steps are to get the replacement driver door painted and installed then it’s off to the frame shop to be straightened. Then the grill and inner fenders get put on, drive shaft gets measured and built, and the truck gets aligned. The big step after all of that is building bumpers for it, at which point this accident stuff will be behind us!
Next steps are to get the replacement driver door painted and installed then it’s off to the frame shop to be straightened. Then the grill and inner fenders get put on, drive shaft gets measured and built, and the truck gets aligned. The big step after all of that is building bumpers for it, at which point this accident stuff will be behind us!
So I changed out the 45° swivel hose at the block, and it still weeps. Right at the swivel part where it threads into the adapter. Any ideas on how to correct this?
Take a look at the fitting on the block and the hose end and see if you can see any damage causing the two surfaces to not seat against each other like a dent in the block fitting. Usually unless it's really bad you can just crank it down a little more but don't go too far if they are aluminum.
Also verify that the nipple has a proper 37-degree seat angle. It's easy enough to accidentally install a standard 45-degree fitting, which won't readily seal against a 37-degree AN/JIC fitting...
Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll look into these tomorrow. Hopefully should get it worked out soon.
So I inspected the -8 side of the adapter for damage, none that I could tell. Also tried swapping a straight hose end onto the hose, and it still weeps. Placed a call to summit and they confirmed that both would be the same 37* angle. Nonetheless, they are shipping me a new adapter and new hose end free of charge under warranty. Hopefully this will solve the problem. After trying 3 different hose ends on the same adapter, logic would tend to suggest the adapter is bad. We shall see.
Also, it appears to be more difficult than originally anticipated to find a shop that is willing to straighten the frame. I have some leads going though. We will see what pans out.
Either way, she actually seems to drive just the same as before the accident. Needs an alignment bad. Pulls hard to the right. Hasn’t been aligned since the 60 install (not like I had much of a chance). I may attempt a self-alignment while I locate a body shop.
In the meantime, let’s enjoy a neighborhood drive.
Also, it appears to be more difficult than originally anticipated to find a shop that is willing to straighten the frame. I have some leads going though. We will see what pans out.
Either way, she actually seems to drive just the same as before the accident. Needs an alignment bad. Pulls hard to the right. Hasn’t been aligned since the 60 install (not like I had much of a chance). I may attempt a self-alignment while I locate a body shop.
In the meantime, let’s enjoy a neighborhood drive.
Something I just noticed, is that teflon tape on the AN side of the adapter? I didn't think you were supposed to tape/putty AN fittings. Maybe that's why it is leaking
? Just a thought...
Something I just noticed, is that teflon tape on the AN side of the adapter? I didn't think you were supposed to tape/putty AN fittings. Maybe that's why it is leaking
Yes it is. Don’t know whether or not it’s making a difference. I used Teflon tape on every other AN fitting and nothing else is leaking. We will see what happens tomorrow when I get the replacement parts.
AN fittings are a type of compression fitting and if you use teflon tape that is going to prevent the sealing areas from properly sealing as it fills and seals/goobers the threads instead. You've already got replacement parts coming, but I would not use teflon tape when you go to install this time.
EDIT: Picture is to show that the sealing surface is the flare, not the threads.
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You have yourself a deal sir. Thanks for that, that is very helpful.
Yes only pipe thread requires teflon and if one side at least is brass or copper then you don't even need teflon for it either the soft material conforms to the surface and seals it. That's why the tapered shape.
New adapter and new 45* hose end are installed and appear to have solved the issue. Seems like there might still be a slight weep from the safety wire hole (I’m not smart enough to actually know what that was, @KirsL schooled me). Will have to drive the truck some more to really know. But it is better than what it was.
Also got to put the Bleepinjeep Alignment Tool to use this afternoon. Truck was pulling pretty hard to the right, so I adjusted the draglink and aligned/set the toe with this tool, and the truck drives pretty straight now. It’s pretty handy, and makes alignments super simple, and I need more simplicity in my life. So I’m thankful for this. And it was less than the cost of a single alignment.
At this point, I’m thinking I may not bother with straightening the frame, and will try to adjust the body panels as best I can myself. The tweaks in the frame make NO difference in driveability, and super-minimal difference in body panel alignment, so I’m thinking this is something I can live with for a while, maybe eventually try something on my own to straighten it out.
I have a replacement driver door painted and ready to go on. That’s next, then the inner fenders will get painted and installed while simultaneously seeing how well I can straighten the panels. Then, it’s off to the driveline shop to get measured for a front drive shaft, after which I will have 4wd for the first time since I bought this truck 3 years ago. The shifter for the Ox still needs to be installed too.
A buddy of mine (licensed general contractor and highly experienced welder) is coming over this week to install a 220 outlet for me in my garage and lend me his 220 welder. After which I will spend lots of time practicing getting myself ready to build front and rear bumpers for this rig.
There’s still a lot to do to keep me busy over the next few months, but it’s slowly coming together.
Also got to put the Bleepinjeep Alignment Tool to use this afternoon. Truck was pulling pretty hard to the right, so I adjusted the draglink and aligned/set the toe with this tool, and the truck drives pretty straight now. It’s pretty handy, and makes alignments super simple, and I need more simplicity in my life. So I’m thankful for this. And it was less than the cost of a single alignment.
At this point, I’m thinking I may not bother with straightening the frame, and will try to adjust the body panels as best I can myself. The tweaks in the frame make NO difference in driveability, and super-minimal difference in body panel alignment, so I’m thinking this is something I can live with for a while, maybe eventually try something on my own to straighten it out.
I have a replacement driver door painted and ready to go on. That’s next, then the inner fenders will get painted and installed while simultaneously seeing how well I can straighten the panels. Then, it’s off to the driveline shop to get measured for a front drive shaft, after which I will have 4wd for the first time since I bought this truck 3 years ago. The shifter for the Ox still needs to be installed too.
A buddy of mine (licensed general contractor and highly experienced welder) is coming over this week to install a 220 outlet for me in my garage and lend me his 220 welder. After which I will spend lots of time practicing getting myself ready to build front and rear bumpers for this rig.
There’s still a lot to do to keep me busy over the next few months, but it’s slowly coming together.
That setup for the alignment is pretty slick. I always have to get a helping hand and go back and forth with one tape measure but that way you just set it up and adjust.
The alignment tool looks to be shorter than the diameter of your tires so keep that in mind. I use a couple pieces of angle iron with paint markers for a 40" diameter tire.
I've always wondered about taking into account the tire diameter. And if larger tires might require a tad more toe-in.
