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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
Heres how my brain works when I see it all together. Roller on the top of the front bumper. Cree curved LED light bar above the windshield with a roller on it and a roller on the back bar. Done. Easy peazy.

Follow me for more ridiculous thoughts and ideas.

Looks good so far.

ATV winch for the win!

I like the ATV winch on the rack idea. I'll bet you can figure out other uses for that little winch too.

I think it will be the best option.

Not being critical in the least here, but man that seems to be a lot of effort needing to be done just to even open the back doors to get something.

I went through this with the temporary swing down tire Carrier we built for mine. Any time I needed something out of the back the tire has to go down. Then it's got to go back up. (yes I pulled out of the driveway at least once with it down) That's just normal use, running errands too. Factor in camping/wheeling and anytime I needed something it went down again.

I'm not saying scrap the design as it is well done. Plus I doubt a swing out style spindle can really hold the weight of a 40" wheel and tire combo.

But as often as you'll need to get in the back of the burb try to make it as simple as possible to handle the lower and lifting. Like when you to get the ATV winch set up, make sure at least the passenger side door can open clear of the cable you can get what you need quick and not have to always disconnect the cable to get the door open. Even if that means off setting the winch to clear.
I'm just throwing out the thought starters since the actuator didn't pan out.

I’ve gone back and forth with this A LOT. I’ve always loved how easy the barn doors were to access once I got the new ones on and functioning well.

But I’ve come to terms with the fact that sacrifices must be made when running these big tires, and it all comes down to what’s most important. For me, I’ve never liked how much space the spare takes up in the cargo area. I’ve always wanted to maintain the ability to haul 8 people, or a full stack of plywood. My goal for this truck has also been for it to be an all-purpose, over-landing, camping, rock-crawling rig. In short, I want to be able to sleep in it. We’ve tried that with the spare in the cargo area, and it was just too tight. My claustrophobia issues kicked into high gear big time.

So I figure, for me, easy access to the cargo area - in favor of increased cargo area - is an acceptable sacrifice.

I fully agree with you though, I need to do everything I can to make this easier. Atv winch. Yes. Offset. Yes. I’ve raised and lowered it a couple of times already and it’s a struggle.
 
We all agree the single rear roof bar shouldn’t be relied upon to mount the winch, right? I should finish the roof rack first, right?
 
Yes. At least to the next set of planned mounts. The rotational twist, as it sits, is too great for the nut serts to hold long term. The tire pushing and pulling on it will be bad enough. I would not off road it much like it is. Speed bumps at the mall would be okay for a while.
 
ATV winch for the win!



I think it will be the best option.



I’ve gone back and forth with this A LOT. I’ve always loved how easy the barn doors were to access once I got the new ones on and functioning well.

But I’ve come to terms with the fact that sacrifices must be made when running these big tires, and it all comes down to what’s most important. For me, I’ve never liked how much space the spare takes up in the cargo area. I’ve always wanted to maintain the ability to haul 8 people, or a full stack of plywood. My goal for this truck has also been for it to be an all-purpose, over-landing, camping, rock-crawling rig. In short, I want to be able to sleep in it. We’ve tried that with the spare in the cargo area, and it was just too tight. My claustrophobia issues kicked into high gear big time.

So I figure, for me, easy access to the cargo area - in favor of increased cargo area - is an acceptable sacrifice.

I fully agree with you though, I need to do everything I can to make this easier. Atv winch. Yes. Offset. Yes. I’ve raised and lowered it a couple of times already and it’s a struggle.
I think removing the hi lift will make it liveable until you setup a winch.
I did the dead lift for a few months and went to moab I think 2018.
It wasn't that bad and I had a 37 with heavy steel wheel and didn't really have a good latch so I had to put a strap on after we hit the first obstacle and kept it that way until I sold it almost a year later.
I still think having some kind of actuator can still work.
I just need more info and dimensions, I may be able to find you a spot that makes it work without being in harms way.
You might need a stringer actuator like a hydraulic cylinder similar tobyou ram assist if you have one
 
Yes. At least to the next set of planned mounts. The rotational twist, as it sits, is too great for the nut serts to hold long term. The tire pushing and pulling on it will be bad enough. I would not off road it much like it is. Speed bumps at the mall would be okay for a while.

Fortunately there’s not much off-roading to do in my area. Tempting to steal the scrap DOM I used to brace my sons’ bunk bed a year ago …

I think removing the hi lift will make it liveable until you setup a winch.
I did the dead lift for a few months and went to moab I think 2018.
It wasn't that bad and I had a 37 with heavy steel wheel and didn't really have a good latch so I had to put a strap on after we hit the first obstacle and kept it that way until I sold it almost a year later.
I still think having some kind of actuator can still work.
I just need more info and dimensions, I may be able to find you a spot that makes it work without being in harms way.
You might need a stringer actuator like a hydraulic cylinder similar tobyou ram assist if you have one

What info and dimensions do you need?
 
Yes. At least to the next set of planned mounts. The rotational twist, as it sits, is too great for the nut serts to hold long term. The tire pushing and pulling on it will be bad enough. I would not off road it much like it is. Speed bumps at the mall would be okay for a while.
Is it the nutserts that’s the concern? What if I took them out and simply put a washer and nut on the inside?
 
Fortunately there’s not much off-roading to do in my area. Tempting to steal the scrap DOM I used to brace my sons’ bunk bed a year ago …



What info and dimensions do you need?
If you can take a picture from the side as close to a profile, I can probably figure out everything since I have a suburban.
If I need any specific measurements I can mark them on the picture.
 
If you can take a picture from the side as close to a profile, I can probably figure out everything since I have a suburban.
If I need any specific measurements I can mark them on the picture.

Hopefully this is what you’re looking for.

D6303696-0FD9-44C0-B536-9142868B1487.jpeg
 
@mrk5 i did like you said and inverted the tie rod ends opposite each other and that definitely keeps the tie rod in place. No more rotation. The ram seems like it might be under a bit more stress now, but only at full lock. Will see how it goes.

Other than that, my initial attempt at painting the tire rack is a good example of what happens when I “derail” in a project. Most of the rack turned out fine, except for the upper name plate and license plate bracket, which didn’t fair too well since gravity worked against me as I painted the rack right side up. I’m not even going to recount the events that unfolded. Let’s just say that it was bad and a mess ensued.

I was able to fix it today. Pictures don’t do it justice, but I literally had to scrape the paint off the name plate with a paint scraper, then sand the rest to bare metal. I’m happy with the results. The license plate bracket is of course covered by the license plate, so it’s a lower priority.

580D16BB-04EE-4F39-AD17-B29B2C3C59EA.jpeg5DCEBA08-6096-418C-AA6F-46F26BB6B513.jpeg


Andy
 
Alright, the steel for the roof rack has been purchased, and my credit card has been confiscated :whistle: :haha:

She understands price for steel gets out of hand, so we are at piece with snagging this while it was a good price.

For now, I am just going to be building the lower portion that bolts to the roof. Using 1.5x.095 HREW round tube. It’ll be full length, stretching all the way to the windshield, with 3 cross braces in the middle. To secure it to the roof, I’m borrowing an idea from an IG friend and using 1/8x2” straps and more rivenuts. He says it’s super strong built this way.

This will get me the support I need for the roof winch, and plenty of room for a pop up tent up there. I may add some trailer wire mesh.

Excuse my low-quality drawing. It’s the best I got.

8DB376EF-5D41-4FB5-9FF2-9B50B05F2664.jpeg4E8FE18F-2D6A-4380-A0C6-F32BA883DEBD.jpeg5B771E05-A0C9-4DF5-B6CB-C638BFF158D9.jpegCBB0202F-2655-4EC7-870E-67C9A0C983FD.jpeg

Andy
 
Have been looking at atv winches. Seems like this Champion brand has the best/most reviews. Anyone have any experience with it? Also, I’m looking for clever ideas and ways to hard mount a control panel/ switch within reach from the ground.

Champion ATV Winch

Andy
 
Find a winch with a wireless controller. Keep the controller up front in the truck and grab it when you need it.

No need to run wires or remote switch.

That was my initial plan. Most of the ones I’m seeing have negative reviews stating the wireless remote quit working in pretty short order. I suppose I could always start with that. Have the wired remote for a back up, and install a remote switch like described if it proves necessary.
 
The wireless control is a great idea. I know Harbor Freight sells the one that comes with the Apex winch separately. It comes with a wire that can be plugged in as a backup.
 
No more truck money for you!


On the winch, I have a Warn remote and I'll never go back. I know the winch you're talking about isn't your primary recovery winch, but still the remote is handy as hell.
 
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