The RedBurb

[AugustDiesel]

Daylight photos give better detail.

The passenger side gusset needed slight clearancing in order to to slide that 9/16 bolt into position and the scrap DOM tube is offset just to one side in order to line up with the Magnum plate.





Andy

 

[Fastereddie]

2 things I am confused about.

First is the fact that you found argon in a can. Mine come in tanks.

Second is, what is the bar between the flanges below the adapter for? I thought that is what you were using for the bushing. But clearance would have been an issue with the drive shaft.

Straight argon? Out west here we use steel mix. 75/25 Co2/Argon

 

[ktmoutfront]

Suburban is now named The Jungle Gym. This is the first time I have seen a grab handle under a truck for that specific purpose. Way to think ahead. I just us the upper link arms.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Straight argon? Out west here we use steel mix. 75/25 Co2/Argon

I was being lazy, and didn’t type it all out. It’s a 75/25 mix just like you’re using

 

[Fastereddie]

I was being lazy, and didn’t type it all out. It’s a 75/25 mix just like you’re using

Right on, I do run straight argon on the tig machine though.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Suburban is now named The Jungle Gym. This is the first time I have seen a grab handle under a truck for that specific purpose. Way to think ahead. I just us the upper link arms.

I figured it was a good idea. This version of the truck probably won’t ever have link arms. I could also use the crossmember itself, this was just an effort to use up the space

 

[AugustDiesel]

Right on, I do run straight argon on the tig machine though.

I’ll keep that in in mind when I get a Tig and start practicing.

 

[stan1688]

I was going to ask if that was a grab handle. I could definitely see that being quite handy.

Everything is looking good! Keep it up!

 

[AugustDiesel]

I was going to ask if that was a grab handle. I could definitely see that being quite handy.

Everything is looking good! Keep it up!

Thanks buddy! I’m under here enough that it made sense.


Photo dump.

During lunch I got the frame plate positioned and tacked the crossmember tubes into place. Then positioned the 2” bushing mount. It’s not burned in yet, so adjustments can be made, though this position may end up being the final resting place.

You can see the design idea: the bottom and possibly even sides will get plated with 1/4”, probably some additional tube bracing, and the crossmember will double as a wannabe skid plate for the t case.








Here in these last couple photos, you can see the clearance issues with the 205 drain plug. I’ll probably end up machining some kind of clearance here some how.

Thoughts and advice welcome, as always.

Andy

 

[AgDieseler]

Looks great. Anything you can do to make that drain plug a bit easier to access will be good.

Nice vibration-isolating design.

David

 

[Truckman4life]

You could do an Allen plug but you would still need room for a cut down "L" Allen wrench to fit in there.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Looks great. Anything you can do to make that drain plug a bit easier to access will be good.

Nice vibration-isolating design.

David

You could do an Allen plug but you would still need room for a cut down "L" Allen wrench to fit in there.

Yeah, I’m weighing my options. If my eyeballs are correct, I only need about 3/8” of space to be able to remove the plug. Will see.

The tubing is burned in.

Tomorrow I’ll get to work on plating it.






Andy

 

[AugustDiesel]

All mocked up

 

[ktmoutfront]

The C clamps are probably going to hook on the rocks.

 

[mrk5]

I would recommend bolts with nuts. Haha. In all seriousness, use pinch lock nuts. I've found the cross member bolts loosened up on mine until I started using them. I figure it's part of the nature of these flexy frames.

The fab work is looking good!

 

[AugustDiesel]

The C clamps are probably going to hook on the rocks.

Yeah but they’re “heavy duty”

I would recommend bolts with nuts. Haha. In all seriousness, use pinch lock nuts. I've found the cross member bolts loosened up on mine until I started using them. I figure it's part of the nature of these flexy frames.

The fab work is looking good!

Thanks! Agreed. I used pinch nuts on the last design and will do the same here.



Piecing together the skid plating. The primary purpose for the side plating is just to tie in the frame plates and tubes better.



Time to notch for the 205 drain hole access.


Andy

 

[ktmoutfront]

You will need that turbo just to move the added weight.

 

[AugustDiesel]

You will need that turbo just to move the added weight.

Good thing that’s next.



Skid plates are burned in. This is my first attempt at “stitch” welding something - or whatever it’s called when you space out the welds. Not sure how I feel about it. Also trying to decide if it’s worth welding on the inside as well.




Also, while burning the side plates to the tubes went really well, burning the side plate to the frame plates didn’t go well at all. The struggle was real. All I can think of is that there is a fair amount of scale built up on the face of the side plates that I didn’t clean off and must have contaminated the welds. I pushed through though.



Also. The Notch.



Andy.

 

[stan1688]

Looks great!

 

[AugustDiesel]

Looks great!

I appreciate that!



I did some stitch welding on the underside, but didn’t get crazy with it.




Also cleaned up the seam between the two plates.



And added gussets to the frame plates.




Tomorrow I’ll get the mounting holes drilled and burn in the bushing mount.


Andy