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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
That is what I am doing with my Campbell hausfeld 27gal with the same problem, increasing my capacity.
I am adding it to my 60 gal 220 compressor
The free compressor turned out to be a dud. Once the motor gets warm it stops working. Hence it being free. It’ll run the first time when the motor is cold. But after it shuts off it won’t cut on again and trips the breaker when attempting. Instead of replacing the motor, I figured it’d be a better use of my money to just get a new one. So I snagged this one from HBF. Not quite as much output, but it’s better than what I have now. I might set up a dual tank system :saweet:

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That is what I am doing with my Campbell hausfeld 27gal with the same problem, increasing my capacity.
I am adding it to my 60 gal 220 compressor

Oh nice. Will be interesting to see what you come up with. I just need to inspect the old tank and make sure it doesn’t have any significant rust damage. Don’t want it blowing up on me :yikes:
 
I have a tank like that plumbed into my other compressor. Mines a really old homemade compressor setup so I keep both tanks aired up most all of the time cuz its really slow. I have valves setup so I can remove the extra tank to use it as a mobile tank on my farm for flat tires. I even have a third tank if I had room for it lol.
 
That label makes my CDO go into hyperdrive.

"Tank pressure 27 gallons".
"Outlet pressure 5.1 SGFM at ?? (can not read it) PSI".

It is good it will start at -20* in Florida.

Run a short hose to the old pump inlet on the old tank and plug everything else.
 
That label makes my CDO go into hyperdrive.

"Tank pressure 27 gallons".
"Outlet pressure 5.1 SGFM at ?? (can not read it) PSI".

It is good it will start at -20* in Florida.

Run a short hose to the old pump inlet on the old tank and plug everything else.

:whistle:

Perhaps a bit of a disorganized sticker …

Max tank pressure is 200psi
Tank size is 27 gallons
5.1 SCFM @ 90psi
6.3SCFM @ 40psi
 
Take this however you want, but I have never seen a rusted air tank explode personally. Have had several on old trucks start leaking, just like one old shop compressor tank did. They don't hold pressure once the compressor shuts off. Constant air leak that gets worse.
But I don't live in a humid area. Not much rust.
 
Take this however you want, but I have never seen a rusted air tank explode personally. Have had several on old trucks start leaking, just like one old shop compressor tank did. They don't hold pressure once the compressor shuts off. Constant air leak that gets worse.
But I don't live in a humid area. Not much rust.

I take that very well actually. Still a possibility, but you’re right: would probably leak air before it went boom. My brain has a tendency to jump to the worst case scenario. :D
 
Lots of progress over the last couple weeks. The subframe/X-Brace for stiffening up the middle section of the frame is fabbed up and tacked in place. Later this week … like maybe tomorrow … I’ll put in a good weld session to start burning it all in.



It all started with getting a new compressor from harbor freight and setting up a dual tank system. It actually works very well. 200PSI in the new tank, 120PSI in the old/2nd tank with about 115psi coming out to the tools through an air regulator/filter/water separator. With this setup, I can use the die grinder, air hammer, you name it for several minutes before the compressor kicks on. On the tube bender, I can bend up to 30* on a 1.5” tube before the compressor kicks on.

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I also picked up this slick portaband from Milwaukee and the matching table from SWAG. The foot pedal is super handy and I have been amazed at the accuracy of this band saw. It’s now my go to for tube notching. Low stress, no spark, near-perfect precision. Worth the money already.

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Now for the subframe. The inner “RCO” frame plates supporting the trans member were laser cut by @stan1688 and then I cut the fish mouths using a 1.5” hole saw and the portaband. 1.5” x 1.20 DOM comes off the bottom of the back end of the RCO plates through a 30* bend to the newly built rear-main-eye crossmember, continuing on and finishing through a 30* bend to the top of a set of smaller frame plates I cut out by hand with the portaband, tacked in place just over the centerline of the rear axle. Fish-mouthed plate ends all around to reduce stress risers.

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Once all of this is burned in, I’ve got a couple more sets of frame plates in mind for the front, then it will be time to burn in the Deuling Design overlay frame plates front and rear that I have waiting on the bench.

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Lots and lots of welding ahead in this hot Florida summer.

Andy
 
Looks good.

Are you checking square and parallel before and after each piece being tacked in?

It’s on the list to double check square and parallel before burning it all in. It was all good before tacking the pieces in, but I’ll be verifying before it’s all committed.
 
Top end is all welded up. Definitely going to flip the frame to do the bottom end. Want to cut frame plates for the front shackle hangers and a set for where the shock hoops will land. Should have that done this next week then it’ll get flipped to weld the bottom end. Still perfectly square.

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Andy
 
Stupid question. Are the support tubes going to make the exhaust routing more challenging the normal?

I’m sure you’ve planned for that, I’m just not seeing the path.

It all looks great though. Good work.
 
Stupid question. Are the support tubes going to make the exhaust routing more challenging the normal?

I’m sure you’ve planned for that, I’m just not seeing the path.

It all looks great though. Good work.

It will be a bit of a challenge, but I have a plan.

Thank you!
 
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