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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

Just out of curiousity, why did you do those dual speakers instead of just getting an oe replacement set of 4x10's.
 
Muddysub, any chance of sending those speaker brackets to kert so he can make them to sell???

i could send him the template, i still have that.

Just out of curiousity, why did you do those dual speakers instead of just getting an oe replacement set of 4x10's.

i figured two nice new 3.5s would sound better than a 4.10". and it gave me something to do for a day, lol!
 
i figured two nice new 3.5s would sound better than a 4.10". and it gave me something to do for a day, lol!


The biggest issue with the 3.5 is the VERY small cone size. You get absolutely no bass, or much midbass for that matter, out of them.

In the burb, the stock 4x10's were the speakers with the largest cone area, which was lacking.

A 6x9 or a 6.5 will have a lot greater surface area, and will be able to better handle some low notes.

Obviously, your truck, your decision...not trying to bash your idea. Looks clean. Just wanted to throw this out there while others are discussing following the same path. Its really not hard to make some sort of a plate to run 6x9's, which would be a better overall compromise.

Sorry to hear about the motor, excited for you to get this back on the road!
 
The biggest issue with the 3.5 is the VERY small cone size. You get absolutely no bass, or much midbass for that matter, out of them.

In the burb, the stock 4x10's were the speakers with the largest cone area, which was lacking.

A 6x9 or a 6.5 will have a lot greater surface area, and will be able to better handle some low notes.

Obviously, your truck, your decision...not trying to bash your idea. Looks clean. Just wanted to throw this out there while others are discussing following the same path. Its really not hard to make some sort of a plate to run 6x9's, which would be a better overall compromise.

Sorry to hear about the motor, excited for you to get this back on the road!

yeah ive had a couple people tell me about the lack of bass handling since i made those plates.
i might end up with some 6x9s or something in there when all is said and done. i figured this would be a neat way of keeping it clean looking. if anything my dad and grandpa are both excellent wood workers, i could build mounts to look similar to the OEM plastic ones that hold 6x9s or something and completely cover the hole left by the 4x10... hmmmm, dammit you got me thinking now, haha!
 
yeah ive had a couple people tell me about the lack of bass handling since i made those plates.
i might end up with some 6x9s or something in there when all is said and done. i figured this would be a neat way of keeping it clean looking. if anything my dad and grandpa are both excellent wood workers, i could build mounts to look similar to the OEM plastic ones that hold 6x9s or something and completely cover the hole left by the 4x10... hmmmm, dammit you got me thinking now, haha!

Most 6x9's come with grills. Build some sort of plate to cover where the stock upholsery comes up short, and throw some 6x9's in there.

Pick a set of 6x9's that you like the grill look on, and run them. Just dont' throw anything heavy at them :doah:

You won't look back. :thumb:
 
Most 6x9's come with grills. Build some sort of plate to cover where the stock upholsery comes up short, and throw some 6x9's in there.

Pick a set of 6x9's that you like the grill look on, and run them. Just dont' throw anything heavy at them :doah:

You won't look back. :thumb:

Yeah that would be the easiest way. I might try that this weekend if I have time. Dammit I probably should have done that to begin with. At least I didn't spend any money on 3.5s so far.
 
If you were putting a sub in the 4x10's are still the best choice. cause youd be crossing it over and blocking bass frequencies anyway. but as a 4 speaker system the conversion to 6x9 is the best route. somebody on here made a set of 3/4 or 1/2 plates and coverd them with matching interior fabric. looked real good
 
If you were putting a sub in the 4x10's are still the best choice. cause youd be crossing it over and blocking bass frequencies anyway. but as a 4 speaker system the conversion to 6x9 is the best route. somebody on here made a set of 3/4 or 1/2 plates and coverd them with matching interior fabric. looked real good


dhcomp did that. and tonight i actually found a local guy with a parts sub wit blue interior. i think i might just do the same thing that he did with the panels and 6x9s.
 
Scott, here are those pistons. they measure 4.055 at the skirt.
All look pretty good, maybe a few nicks to clean up.
Ring lands look good, maybe a little cleaning in the top of some of them, still a little carbon on some.
The rods I don't know anything about, they are pretty clean, just a little surface rust from the wonderful MI humidity. The wristpins seem a little tight to me.
I think they are cast.
Can't recognize the manufacturers mark on them.
let me know if your interested.
 
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If you were putting a sub in the 4x10's are still the best choice. cause youd be crossing it over and blocking bass frequencies anyway. but as a 4 speaker system the conversion to 6x9 is the best route. somebody on here made a set of 3/4 or 1/2 plates and coverd them with matching interior fabric. looked real good


I disagree. Normally, a sub is crossed over pretty low, to really keep the LOW frequencies to it. On a system with no mid sized speakers (if you have 3.5's and 4x10's), there is a good bit of mid bass you still want out of a pair of 6x9;s

Plus, 4x10's aren't cheap.....there are way better options in 6x9's for $60-90$
 
I disagree. Normally, a sub is crossed over pretty low, to really keep the LOW frequencies to it. On a system with no mid sized speakers (if you have 3.5's and 4x10's), there is a good bit of mid bass you still want out of a pair of 6x9;s

Plus, 4x10's aren't cheap.....there are way better options in 6x9's for $60-90$

I meant if you want to keep a stock look. Its real hard to run 6x9's and look stock. they can be made to look great. but not stock very easily. And most single sub systems run a 10-12" sub that is usually crossed over at 80-100hz for best full sound. Easily in the range of a 4x10's low end. Alot of 4x10's sound really good as far as mid bass and highs go. I've ran a few sets myself. Most 6x9's are still crossed over at 80 or so in a sub system since the sub takes care of it below that and will fight the 6x9's if they arent (unless its a 15" sub system). 6x9's are a far supperior speaker hands down. but some people like the look of stock. Kinda like a sleeper hotrod.:thumb:
I mentioned it as an option cause it sounded like what he was looking for. :dunno:
 
I meant if you want to keep a stock look. Its real hard to run 6x9's and look stock. they can be made to look great. but not stock very easily. And most single sub systems run a 10-12" sub that is usually crossed over at 80-100hz for best full sound. Easily in the range of a 4x10's low end. Alot of 4x10's sound really good as far as mid bass and highs go. I've ran a few sets myself. Most 6x9's are still crossed over at 80 or so in a sub system since the sub takes care of it below that and will fight the 6x9's if they arent (unless its a 15" sub system). 6x9's are a far supperior speaker hands down. but some people like the look of stock. Kinda like a sleeper hotrod.:thumb:
I mentioned it as an option cause it sounded like what he was looking for. :dunno:


Its all good. Just keeping the ideas flowing if he is going to change what he did.

Lots of cheap 4x10's out there too...
https://www.google.com/search?q=4x1....,cf.osb&fp=eb5d7e2b19251387&biw=1280&bih=666
 
thanks for all the replies guys, youve given me a lot to think about! clean, stock appearance is kinda what i'm looking for. (hell ive even thought about lowering the truck a couple inches and running 35s.) whatever i do for speakers, if i find myself needing more bass i'll build a box to fit in the spare tire well in the back.
 
the spare tire well is what I'm doing with my burb:waytogo: (using a 13.5" slimline jl audio) I want mine all stock apperance exept the deck. I'm even putting the spare cover back on. Thwarts theives a little. I go to www.onlinecarstereo.com alot. not always the best price but there are some untouchable prices on there now and then too.
 
He's gotta do something while waitin for a mill:rolleyes::haha:
 
Yep. I'm keeping an eye on CL for a used engine just to get it moving. In the mean time I might as well keep myself occupied.

Hey man, I was going to reply to your PM but then I saw you went with a 5.3
Now that it's not happening, I have some options for you, but need to know what your limitations are:
SMOG requirements?
Can you stuff anything you want?
Do you want to stay TBI or would you go carb?
I have: 400SBC long block is already .30 over
I have a stock 400SBC still running in my Chalet with only 90k original miles, you can drive that one, smoothest power I have ever driven in small block carbed.
I have a 350TBI engine that I am running in my 89Sub, runs strong but has a tick from what the consesus is some end play in the crank (I would sell this one cheap if you just want the long block)
ANd I have the 454TBI I mentionned before, if you want it complete or just the engine because I do have interest in the TBI system but don't want to sell it until the engine is sold in case the buyer wants it.

And I am flexible with payments, will take a small down and make payments.:dunno:
I could also get it to you or real close, but if you want to drive the vehicle first, you want to come here.:whistle:
I recommend the 454TBI, or the complete 400SBC, but if you want real cheap the 350 would be the cheapest and straight bolt on.
Let me know if you want to talk $s
 
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