Sounds like a plan. 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
The restoration/modification of Daisy.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
I've read that the Eldorado calipers don't do a great job on our heavy truck, but I have no first hand experience. I wonder if it would be possible to increase the clamping force somehow...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
X2.
As in, dual calipers? I though the dual caliper setup was for using hydraulic parking brakes (not double clamping force?).
Is there a strength/performance difference between the cable-brake (Eldorado) calipers and the non-cable-brake calipers?
If you read into the eldo caliper swap on here in depth, lots of ppl are unhappy with the setup.
Unless you plan to do a bunch of mud, i'd stick with the stock drums. Sure, they are heavy. But, they work well, and have the parking brake you want.
Unless you plan to do a bunch of mud, i'd stick with the stock drums. Sure, they are heavy. But, they work well, and have the parking brake you want.
I have been contemplating this swap with my trucks, but I haven't gotten to the point of researching it much yet. After a short search I found this:
Is adjustment the usual issue? Or is there some other issue that arises?
I've gotten more interested in this issue since my 10-bolt gov-lock carrier fractured this past fall.
Especially since I already have 2 14FF axles ready for swapping... 
That's what I've been finding, no body is too thrilled with them. My drums are long gone, I always wanted rear discs, a park brake is more of a luxury where I live than anything else. Around town I'd never use it and up in the mountains or out in the desert it would be used sparingly. So if I end up using a line lock valve it wouldn't be a big deal in my opinion.
see below..
so here is the deal... do you really need a functioning brake? if so you can make the eldo's work...
for me I had all the parts to do the swap on the shelf and one day while driving on a 2 land rd that lead into 1... a chick flew by me on the right and just merged over... I figured I would be a D1ck (comes natural to me)...
I slammed the brakes as my hawgs are very loud when they lockup... well yes they locked and scared the crap out of me. It sent my truck partially sideways as the drums LOCKED and the front didnt do squat.
so after cleaning the unneeded stuff out of my pants.. I did my upgrade. I LOVE my disc swap. I have the e-brake ONLY for inspection purposes. it does hold... on steep ground no... but like you said a line lock would work and that was my plans but just never got to it.
if I had to start on a truck ALL over my first thing would be rear disc. Something about how horrible the drums dont adjust, adjusters freeze up and all the other issues... I just prefer disc even if it wasnt with eldo calipers so if you do not need the ebrake go with d44 calipers or dual piston ones... either way the truck will stop WAY better....
Sorry to hijack but are these the paint stripping discs you are using?
http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/4.5cleanstrip.htm
http://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/4.5cleanstrip.htm
yep. use discount code GRIT when you check out.
no hijack at all, its been quiet for a few days. ive got stuff to update with but ive been busy. the wife and i just got home from vacation. maybe this weekend i'll update the thread.
Awesome about how many discs do you think I will need to strip my k5 tub?
inside and out? quite a few, i order them 5-10 at a time. it takes about 1.5 to do one door, so a whole tub would probably use 10-15 of them.
Cool thanks. I mainly just want to do the outside.
ok its been too long. ive gotten a bunch of parts in lately and started in on a few things. ive also got some more questions for the brotherhood.
the most recent parts order included a painless chassis wiring harness, 14" Bilstien 5100s, some other wiring goodies like ground straps and fan relays, exhaust parts to build the Y-pipe, a sheet of aluminum to build a fan shroud out of, a sheet of 1/2" delrin to build a skid plate out of, a Lokar floor shifter and a 1350 u-bolt style yoke for my 14bff.
i got started on the exhaust. i have a new respect for guys who scratch build exhaust for a living. doing it laying on your back under the truck it's not as easy as i thought. it takes a long time to make any progress here as well, i cut the elbows and fit everything with masking tape, check fitment and if everything is right, take them to my friend's house where he tacks them up. if something is wrong i have to cut them apart, adjust, tape and go back to have them tacked again. i need a MIG welder so ****ing bad! i might work more on this tomorrow, depending on how the wiring goes.
i also started the chassis wiring, today i got the tail lights all done. tomorrow i'll work on the headlights and fuel pump/sending unit wiring.
while i was pulling the tail lights and the wiring i noticed that the light mounts were pretty dull looking so i cleaned them up and shot them with some silver RC car paint. that aught to make them a little brighter, haha!
before
after
so this leads me to the questions.
1. ive got 5" between the front diff and the pass side exhaust pipe off the header. is that gonna be enough? with the parts and tools i have here at home, i can't really get it any higher. if i bought some more elbows i might be able to get some more clearance out of it. i'm not sure how much travel 5" at the diff equates to at the end of the axle.
2. how much room should i have between the transfer case and the skid plate? if i just slap the skid plate onto the cross members it only leaves about 1/8" between them. i doubt that's enough room if things start moving around. the engine/trans/case are all on poly bushings so they won't move much but i imagine they will bounce around some.
the most recent parts order included a painless chassis wiring harness, 14" Bilstien 5100s, some other wiring goodies like ground straps and fan relays, exhaust parts to build the Y-pipe, a sheet of aluminum to build a fan shroud out of, a sheet of 1/2" delrin to build a skid plate out of, a Lokar floor shifter and a 1350 u-bolt style yoke for my 14bff.
i got started on the exhaust. i have a new respect for guys who scratch build exhaust for a living. doing it laying on your back under the truck it's not as easy as i thought. it takes a long time to make any progress here as well, i cut the elbows and fit everything with masking tape, check fitment and if everything is right, take them to my friend's house where he tacks them up. if something is wrong i have to cut them apart, adjust, tape and go back to have them tacked again. i need a MIG welder so ****ing bad! i might work more on this tomorrow, depending on how the wiring goes.
i also started the chassis wiring, today i got the tail lights all done. tomorrow i'll work on the headlights and fuel pump/sending unit wiring.
while i was pulling the tail lights and the wiring i noticed that the light mounts were pretty dull looking so i cleaned them up and shot them with some silver RC car paint. that aught to make them a little brighter, haha!
before
after
so this leads me to the questions.
1. ive got 5" between the front diff and the pass side exhaust pipe off the header. is that gonna be enough? with the parts and tools i have here at home, i can't really get it any higher. if i bought some more elbows i might be able to get some more clearance out of it. i'm not sure how much travel 5" at the diff equates to at the end of the axle.
2. how much room should i have between the transfer case and the skid plate? if i just slap the skid plate onto the cross members it only leaves about 1/8" between them. i doubt that's enough room if things start moving around. the engine/trans/case are all on poly bushings so they won't move much but i imagine they will bounce around some.
More parts ordered, batteries, weatherpack connectors, headlights, battery cable, etc... Next weekend should be a good one.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I should say so! Good job on gettin with it! I'm going to hit mine real hard after I get back from vacation! I want it at least back in the road by the end of May!
Same here, I absolutely need her driving by the end of May if I'm going to get all the bugs worked out in time for BB14.
Looking like the end is near! Get the bugs worked out and we can have 5.3 swap horror stories/ I'm glad I did it beers at Blazer Bash!
[peanut gallery comment]
You want it in the road? That will look interesting.
[/peanut gallery comment]
Looks like good progress, though. Thumbs up for doing the exhaust. I've decided I don't prefer doing exhaust work. It's about the only thing (so far) that I'd be glad to hire out next time.
[peanut gallery comment]
You want it in the road? That will look interesting.
[/peanut gallery comment]
Looks like good progress, though. Thumbs up for doing the exhaust. I've decided I don't prefer doing exhaust work. It's about the only thing (so far) that I'd be glad to hire out next time.
Thanks man, my plan was to just build the Y-pipe and let an exhaust shop do the rest. Now that that is done, it seems silly to have someone else do the rest of it, that's the easy part haha! This weekend will be wiring and hopefully welding the exhaust up so I can have it all ceramic coated.
